A119 Pre-production beta test, bugs, fixes, FW and suggestions

note: i haven't tried this myself, but i write scripts/batch files for windows for a living.

you might know, any command line method to get Win10 to format a card greater than 32GB FAT32 with 32k clusters? The go to method for Windows users previously was to use FAT32Formatter/GUIformat but it doesn't work under Win10 due to permissions issues and the developer isn't interested in updating the program any further
 
you might know, any command line method to get Win10 to format a card greater than 32GB FAT32 with 32k clusters? The go to method for Windows users previously was to use FAT32Formatter/GUIformat but it doesn't work under Win10 due to permissions issues and the developer isn't interested in updating the program any further
Does this work? Not sure if it would spit an error out as haven't got a card handy to try it out right now.

format x: /fs:fat32 /a:32k

Daft q but you were right clicking and running the tools as admin? Likewise you'll have to fire up an admin mode command prompt for that format command to work (right click bottom left hand corner and it should be in the menu)
 
Daft q but you were right clicking and running the tools as admin?

not daft, yes ran as admin, it could sometimes work but most often would spit out a permissions error saying the drive was already in use by another program, you could sometimes get around that by formatting in Windows and then formatting using the program, probably worked less than half the time though, if you changed cards you'd go through it all again, I emailed the dev to ask but he wasn't really interested in it, there is a command line version of that program from memory, perhaps that might be more successful, it's not really for my own use just trying to find a solution that the average Joe can get their head around

we're working on some firmware trickery to negate the need hopefully but still interested if there's another method
 
No I tried the command line switches for format to try and force it to use fat32 on a 64gb card. It wouldn't do it. Wasn't a permissions issue but if I remember right, it said it was an invalid filesystem for this device or something like that. Stupid MS. Fat 32 can handle almost 2tb so there's no reason to prevent people from using it. They still allow you to use it on smaller devices, and don't force you to use NTFS...

But yes @CDNinHH you might need to change my instructions a little...
Click start, type CMD, then right click the command prompt icon and choose run as administrator. Sometimes a standard user isn't allowed to format drives, but sometimes it's OK to format a removable drive. Not always consistent due to various settings a company (employer) or computer manufacturer might set on the machine.
 
I'm using gui format fat32 on Windows 10 Pro 64bit with no problems at all, regularly format my 64gb an 128gb cards with it for my mini806 dashcam.
Make sure you don't have Windows Explorer open when you run it.
 
I'm using gui format fat32 on Windows 10 Pro 64bit with no problems at all, regularly format my 64gb an 128gb cards with it for my mini806 dashcam.
Make sure you don't have Windows Explorer open when you run it.

I could never get any FAT32 app to work on Windows 10. Which exact version are you using, and all you need to do is make sure explorer is closed?
 
The app doesn't report a version number and it doesn't have an "about" option in the menu. I just did a search in a web browser for "gui format fat32" and there were many hits. The one at www.ridgecrop.demon.co.uk/index.htm?guiformat.htm looks like the one.

that's the one, can get it to work with Win10 sometimes, just not all the time

we're working on adding a function in our firmware to deal with this but in the interim it would be helpful to have something that works consistently under Win10
 
that's the one, can get it to work with Win10 sometimes, just not all the time

we're working on adding a function in our firmware to deal with this but in the interim it would be helpful to have something that works consistently under Win10
Worst case, make a LiveCD or bootable usb stick of damn small Linux and format it there. :D
 
so i finally pulled my memory card to see how the video looks on mine - yes, kinda blue but then it's been overcast (when it's not time to consider building an ark), which isn't ideal for checking color quality. plus it seems i mounted it a little too close to the dots at the top of the windshield, so i need to move it down a bit as well, since that might be affecting quality.

anyway, i think i've found a pretty significant bug while at the same time found a really NICE feature. this is with the a119.160321.v1 firmware.

situation - i saw something interesting, so i clicked save, and it started beeping a bunch, (which the beeping has already been changed in the latest firmware, from what i understand).

so here's the GOOD part: it left the original video file in the Movie folder, and then it also made a second, new file in the EMR folder. it appears that the EMR file starts about 13 seconds before i clicked save (the triangle ! button), and ends 22 seconds later - the resulting file is 35 seconds long. to me, that's GREAT that it basically buffers and keeps a part before the event, and also several seconds after. I don't know how it handles it across what would normally be a file break (ie: loop time set to 3 minutes, and you press lock/save at 2:58) but my guess is it would do the same thing - create a 35 second long file. as it happens, i had loop time set to 3 minutes, and since this event happened at roughly 1:30 into the file, it ended the normal file at a length of 2:09.

now for the BAD part. i checked out the regular non-EMR file in the Movie folder, and then looked to see how the overlap was to the next file. the regular file where the EMR file was copied from continues for about 6 more seconds after the EMR file ended and the beeping stops, then it ends. the next file starts approximately 15 seconds later based on the time stamp in the video and the distance traveled in between video files. so apparently it was not recording for about 15 seconds! this is BAD! i checked some other files where i had NOT pressed the lock button, and they had a perfect break between files - no overlap and no missing frames. I left the G-sensor turned on at medium sensitivity and i've expected it to go off a few times since my truck has hard suspension, but it hasn't. but i bet it would do the same thing with regards to losing 15 seconds of video.

i checked a second instance where i'd pressed the button - this time i pressed it at about 2:13, and it beeped until 2:26 (which is where the EMR file ended), and then the file ended at 2:32. timestamp at the 2:32 mark in the video was 14:57:00, and at the start of the next file in the Movie folder, the timestamp (and filename) was 14:57:15. so it seems easy to duplicate.

memory card is an unbranded, made in taiwan 16gb class 4 (whoops, didn't realize it was only class 4 when i put it in the camera) that i've been using in my A118C and in an iTrue X3 for quite some time - both at 1080p30 - without a problem. and as i said, all other normal files on the card are fine, and the break between normal files is flawless. it's only when i create an EMR file by pressing the ! button that the problem shows up.

H2testw said:
Warning: Only 15247 of 15248 MByte tested.
Test finished without errors.
You can now delete the test files *.h2w or verify them again.
Writing speed: 4.65 MByte/s
Reading speed: 18.3 MByte/s
H2testw v1.4

i just started a test on the card with H2testw to check its speed and reliability. write speed seems pretty steady around 4.6-4.7Mbyte/sec, which works out to 36.8-37.6mbps - way more than the bitrate of the videos it creates (about 20mbps), so that's enough room for protocol/driver/etc overhead. however, if it's writing TWO files simultaneously at 20mbps and the card can't be written to at 40mbps, i would expect one of them to stutter or maybe be unplayable, but both are butter smooth 1080p60.

i have not upgraded to the newest firmware yet, but will do it now that i have the memory card out (and now that the 60fps freezing issue has been fixed). then i'll test again at my desk, with it pointing at a clock, and see if it still loses that chunk of video after pressing lock.

i'll also test with an actual class 10 card to rule that out. actually, i'll test w/ a class 10 card BEFORE the upgrade, to see if it's the card or the firmware that fixes the issue (if it's fixed).

I'll add to this post in an hour or so once i'm done with the h2testw test, class 10 card test, firmware update, etc.
 
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no reports of that
Now I am really interested :)
I am going to start reading these test reports. I am hoping video quality is far better than Mini 0902, which by the way overheated today. Rebooted twice during my hour long commute. I am done with it... I give up.

In any event, I am going to start following the A119 and hope it is a better product.
 
(and now that the 60fps freezing issue has been fixed)

I don't believe that has been fixed yet....that problem became evident in the first FW upgrade...we don't have a second one yet that I know of...
 
ok just from playing around at my desk with the class 10 card in the camera and only watching the camera's screen, it looks like it does NOT start a new file 6 seconds after the EMR file ends - it keeps going for the rest of the 3 minute interval. with the class 4 card, i noticed that a few seconds after the beeping stopped (i wasn't counting as i was driving at the time) the timer in the upper right would reset to zero even though it hadn't got to 2:59 yet.

also noticed that MIC and MENU buttons will turn on the screen, but power does NOT. i think it should.

also nice how you only have to press ! once to lock the file. with the a118/a118c you had to press it twice - once to wake up the screen and again to actually lock the file.

now that i've pulled the class 10 card and checked files...

seems the class 4 card was the issue. i haven't upgraded the firmware yet, but with the class 10 card, it did NOT start a new file shortly after the EMR file ended. and as an added bonus, if you press ! just before the normal file would end (ie: about 2:57 with loop set to 3 min) the EMR file is still about 33-34 seconds long, starting 12-13 seconds before you press the button and ending 20 seconds later. so the problem of clicking lock at 0:01 of a file when you actually wanted to save the previous file is SOLVED - this will save the 12 seconds prior to pressing the button as well as 20 seconds after. would be nice if maybe it saved 20 before and 20 after to give a little more of the "story" but if your memory card is big enough or you remove it shortly after the incident, the full/normal files in the Movie folder will still be there to give the full story.

so now i feel like a tool for using a class 4 card and then having problems because i didn't realize i'd used a slow card. let the hazing begin. :p

i will go ahead and update the firmware and see how it behaves. maybe the sun will come out tomorrow and i can go for a drive to see how much less blue the video is.

I don't believe that [60fps freezing] has been fixed yet....that problem became evident in the first FW upgrade...we don't have a second one yet that I know of...

i thought the second post in this thread (by @viofo) said that it was fixed:

viofo said:
Thanks, you are very fast.
That's what we are going to do.
1. Add a little bright for daytime video
2. Reduce blue color in low light condition
3. Show big ! icon while lock the file instead of long beep
4. Set 1440P as default
5. Solve the 60fps freeze problem <<------------
6. Add a format warning options after 15, 30 days recording

or maybe he thought it was fixed but you're saying it's not completely fixed? either way i'll find out shortly.
 
i thought the second post in this thread (by @viofo) said that it was fixed:

I think it is in the wording.....they said " That's what we are going to do" I think that means in the next firmware update....
 
ok after firmware update (4/18 version):

GOOD:
  • pressing REC while screen is off does not immediately stop recording. you have to press it a second time to actually stop.
  • if you do stop recording, it starts beeping at you to make sure you know it's not doing its job.
  • pressing MENU while screen is already on and it's recording makes a small image of a SLR camera appear in the center of the screen for a moment - i'm guessing it takes a still photo when you do that. pressing menu w/ screen off doesn't make the icon appear but i haven't yet checked to see if it still takes the photo.

BAD:
  • power button still does not wake up screen, but all other buttons do. it beeps when you press power, but screen doesn't come on.
  • still beeps once every 2 seconds, 10 times, after pressing ! button. very annoying. i think 2 or 3 times is more than enough. also thought @viofo said that they were going to make it put a big yellow triangle in the middle of the screen as confirmation, but it still only shows the small yellow triangle at the top. after re-reading that post i quoted, and CDN's interpretation, i guess that will be addressed in the NEXT firmware, not this one. I still think it should beep (unless you have beeps turned off) but only 2-3 times, not 10. or perhaps just one quick double-beep like the one it does when you stop recording by pressing REC.
  • still no lights or anything to indicate that it's booting/starting up. i saw white lights under all the other buttons while flashing the firmware, but that's the only time i've ever seen them. only the red light under REC comes on after the camera has finished booting and started recording, which is about 8 or 9 seconds. i think the white lights should come on as soon as power is detected, to let you know it DID get power and it's starting up and then go off when it's done booting, or maybe when the screen turns off. obviously REC should stay red while it's recording.
  • Red REC light is too dim to be seen during the day. this probably can't be changed in firmware though, and i didn't expect a firmware update to change that.

other thoughts:
  • honestly i don't see a need for a REC or POWER button on a dashcam. my blacksys cameras don't have them. really, if you want to stop recording, you can just unplug the power cord. and in places where you have to stop recording (ie: entering a military/government area) you'll probably want to completely remove the cam from the windshield so there's no question about whether it's still recording - those guys are quite serious about recording equipment.
  • I think the power button is not needed either - it should turn on and start recording when it gets power and turn off when it loses power. obviously it's too late to remove buttons on this camera, but maybe the A120 can have fewer buttons. the Blacksys CF-100 has three buttons - EMERGENCY, UP and DOWN. the CH-100B has one more button - wifi on/off. the emergency button is twice the size of the other buttons since it's the one you'll use the most so they want it to be easy to find and press. UP and DOWN are used for volume (it has voice prompts since it has no screen), and holding DOWN will turn the mic on or off. holding EMERGENCY will make it ask you if you want to format the SD card, then if you press UP it will format it. obviously EMERGENCY will lock a file. IMHO, that's all you really need on a dashcam.
this time when i put the camera back in the truck, i'll make sure it has the class 10 card in it. :p i'll keep the class 4 around for firmware upgrades or whatever though, since some cameras don't like using 64gb cards for firmware updates.
 
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