A139 Pro Test & Review PP

[tchavei]

That explains it.
1 Minute video will be 437 MB.

View attachment 65635
View attachment 65636

Yes but further down in your post you said the A139 Pro is making 1.3gb files on 3 min loop. Mine is doing 300mb less for some reason

 

[Panzer Platform]

Yes but further down in your post you said the A139 Pro is making 1.3gb files on 3 min loop. Mine is doing 300mb less for some reason

Oh, OK.
Turn off HDR, and film a 3 minute clip.
Maybe it will be 1.3 GB.

 

[Panzer Platform]

Outdoor Focus Check

Camera Settings:
A139 Pro: 2023_0605 (3840 x 2160) 30fps Bitrate: Maximum 60Mbps HDR: Off CPL Filter: Off
A119 Mini 2: 2023_0509 (2560 x 1440) 60fps Bitrate: High 30Mbps HDR: Off CPL Filter: Off




Here’s the file sizes for the 1 minute clips.


Here’s the 1 minute clips;

 

[Leonauto]

I don't know how to do that. lol

Everything is very simple. Look under the spoiler:
How to hide image under spoiler

Spoiler: How to hide image under SPOILER

Why do you need to hide pictures under the spoiler - if the horizontal format of the photo (and video)
does not cause inconvenience, then very long vertical pictures of 931x1900 in size just kill.
They take up half a page and it is terribly inconvenient when viewing pages on the forum.
If you cannot reduce the size of the picture (for example, to an acceptable size no more than 500 pixels high):

- just hide this picture under the spoiler.
Please respect forum members.

Next, I posted the steps on how to hide the image under the spoiler.
But it is convenient to do it on a PC.

For a smartphone, a slightly different technology:
open your post for editing and enter the text in square brackets [ SPOILER ] before the picture and [ /SPOILER ] after.
(Note. The word Spoiler is written without spaces after and before square brackets, I made spaces on purpose, because I have the text immediately turned into a spoiler)
And you will succeed!

In order for the spoiler to be with a caption, simply add the text you need under square brackets
(which you place before the picture) in this format (highlighted in red): [SPOILER="Comparison in low light"]
* * *

* * *

* * *

* * *

* * *

* * *


Hope I could help someone

See how I did it: here

 

[Panzer Platform]

Please respect forum members.

I'm so sorry.
I had no idea it was doing that.
I've never experienced the issue you describe on my "computer".
I'm using a Google Chromebook, but I have it connected to a 32" display.
I will try do do it right now.
-Chuck

 

[Leonauto]

@Panzer Platform yes everything is fine, no problem, thanks for your efforts

Spoiler: What i see on the PC screen

On my SyncMaster 213T this is what it looks like:
This is good

And it's great

... but this is not very cool

 

[Panzer Platform]

I tested the maximum power output of the new & improved Hardwire Kit specifically designed for the A139 Pro.
In this post I will attempt to confirm & verify the listed power output specifications of hardwire kits that were sent with the following cameras, see attached photos;
6/14/22 A119 Mini 1
7/23/22 A229
11/29/22 A139 Pro
5/12/23 A119 Mini 2

All three HK4 kits have an identical UPC code of 94044-00061.
The HK3-C that was sent with the A139 Pro has a UPC code of 94044-00048.
All hardwire kits have a listed power output specification of 5V2A MAX.
All hardwire kits have a “Quality Control” date code sticker indicating when it was manufactured.
The indicated dates of manufacturer correspond when I received the cameras.
The HK4 kits I received with the A119 Mini 1 & A229 are constructed using 24AWG gauge wire.
The HK3-C & HK4 kits I received with the A139 Pro & A119 Mini 2 are constructed using “20AWG+24AWG” gauge wire, (see attached photos).
The diameter of the 24AWG gauge wire is 4.11mm.
The diameter of the 20AWG+24AWG gauge wire is 4.31mm.

To obtain the maximum power output of each hardwire kit I’ll be using my;
1.) WANPTEK Power Supply set at 12.60 Volts @ 5 Amps.
2.) DROK USB Load Tester set at 5.00 Volts, and I will crank up the Amperage Load to obtain the max power output.
Both 24AWG kits have an identical maximum power output of 2.3 Amps @ 5.0 Volts = 11.5 Watts
Both 20AWG+24AWG kits have an identical maximum power output of 3.5 Amps @ 5.0 Volts = 17.5 Watts, (an increase of 6 Watts).
The maximum power consumption of the A139 Pro in 3-channel configuration is approximately 11 Watts. Shoutout to @rcg530 for making these beautiful color coded spreadsheets documenting his power consumption testing, (see attached screenshot).

What does this mean?
1.)
If a consumer already had an existing A139, A139 2-channel, A139 3-channel installed in their car with the “old” hardwire kit, and upgraded the front main camera to the A139 Pro they may experience malfunctions due to power starvation from the old hardwire kit being unable to supply sufficient power to the camera.
Endless boot loop (start up & shut down).
Recording malfunctions
Dropping 2nd & 3rd channels
SD Card data writing malfunction.
2.)
If a new first time buyer purchased an A139 Pro, A139 Pro 2-channel, A139 Pro 3-channel from a retailer other than the Official Viofo website like Amazon, and also purchased a hardwire kit, they may have been shipped the “old” 24AWG hardwire kit.

Q:How does a consumer identify if they have an “old” 24AWG hardwire kit only capable of 11.5 Watts max output, or the “upgraded” 20AWG+24AWG kit capable of 17.5 Watts max output?
A: Check the writing on the hardwire cable, (Type-C connector end).
24AWG = Old
20AWG+24AWG = Upgraded

@viofo
@VIOFO-Support
@rcg530
@Vortex Radar
@safedrivesolutions
-Chuck

Here’s videos performing the power output tests;

 

[tchavei]

“Procrastination is like masturbation, it feels good in the beginning but then you realize you f*cked yourself”
-Dalai Lama

After 7 lazy months I got around to testing the maximum power output of the new & improved Hardwire Kit specifically designed for the A139 Pro.
In this post I will attempt to confirm & verify the listed power output specifications of hardwire kits that were sent with the following cameras;
6/14/22 A119 Mini 1
7/23/22 A229
11/29/22 A139 Pro
5/12/23 A119 Mini 2

All three HK4 kits have an identical UPC code of 94044-00061.
The HK3-C that was sent with the A139 Pro has a UPC code of 94044-00048.
All hardwire kits have a listed power output specification of 5V2A MAX.
All hardwire kits have a “Quality Control” date code sticker indicating when it was manufactured.
The indicated dates of manufacturer correspond when I received the cameras.

Now, this is where it gets interesting.
The HK4 kits I received with the A119 Mini 1 & A229 are constructed using 24AWG gauge wire.
The HK3-C & HK4 kits I received with the A139 Pro & A119 Mini 2 are constructed using “20AWG+24AWG” gauge wire, (see attached photos).
The diameter of the 24AWG gauge wire is 4.11mm.
The diameter of the 20AWG+24AWG gauge wire is 4.31mm.

What is going on here?
Is @viofo trying to save a few pennies by using 20AWG wire for constant hot positive & ground wires, and using smaller 24AWG wire for the switched ignition positive wire? (just use 20AWG for everything guys)

To obtain the maximum power output of each hardwire kit I’ll be using my;
1.) WANPTEK Power Supply set at 12.60 Volts @ 5 Amps.
2.) DROK USB Load Tester set at 5.00 Volts, and I will crank up the Amperage Load until I hear the hardwire kits say; “Uncle!”
Both 24AWG kits have an identical maximum power output of 2.3 Amps @ 5.0 Volts = 11.5 Watts
Both 20AWG+24AWG kits have an identical maximum power output of 3.5 Amps @ 5.0 Volts = 17.5 Watts.
This means the new & improved 20AWG+24AWG kits have an increased power output of 6 Watts, (that’s a lot!).

What does all this nonsense mean?
1.)
If a consumer already had an existing A139, A139 2-channel, A139 3-channel installed in their car with the “old” hardwire kit, and upgraded the front main camera to the A139 Pro they will most certainly experience malfunctions due to power starvation from the old hardwire kit being unable to supply sufficient power to the camera.
Endless boot loop (start up & shut down).
Recording malfunctions
Dropping 2nd & 3rd channels
SD Card file corruption
The list goes on.
2.)
If a new first time buyer purchased an A139 Pro, A139 Pro 2-channel, A139 Pro 3-channel from a retailer other than the Official Viofo website like Amazon, and also purchased a hardwire kit, they may have been supplied with the “old” 24AWG hardwire kit.

Long story short if I would have performed these tests 7 months ago when I opened this testing thread I may have saved hundreds of hours of wasted consumer time dealing with recording malfunctions, tech support inquiry, diagnosis, etc.
I’m a failure. lol
@rcg530
@Vortex Radar
@safedrivesolutions
-Chuck

Here’s videos performing the power output tests;

Nice but indeed a bit late...

I'm definitely not ripping out my hardwire kit to check what I was sent. On one hand, I'd expect to be sent the latest back in Feb/March (I ordered from Viofo Benelux) but on the other hand, I can't really remember if the ACC wire was thinner than the other wires when I soldered the ATC plugs to them (I think they were the same diameter) so maybe I have the old kit.

Any way of knowing by checking the box or only byy dismounting the car again (I'll pass)

 

[naruhodo]

Any way of knowing by checking the box or only byy dismounting the car again (I'll pass)

It appears to be possible to check by looking at the box. If the two photos attached – "Side Mug Shot" and "The Usual Suspects" – shows the boxes in the same left-to-right order... as it appears they are... then the third box from the left in the "Usual Suspects" photo is labeled A139 Pro in the photo. Thus the third box from the left in the "Side Mug Shot" photo has a diagram of the A139 and the Hardware Kit on the side panel. So if you still have your Hardware Kit box, you should be able to confirm whether you have that version of the Hardware Kit.

BTW, FWIW, I ordered my A139 Pro and HK3-C kit directly from Viofo in April and the version they sent to me has the same box as the third from the left in the @Panzer Platform photos (with the diagram).

 

[Panzer Platform]

On one hand, I'd expect to be sent the latest back in Feb/March (I ordered from Viofo Benelux)

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. lol

It appears to be possible to check by looking at the box. If the two photos attached – "Side Mug Shot" and "The Usual Suspects"

Thank you for actually reading my post. lol
-Chuck

 

[TonyM]

I have an 'old' HK3-C that I bought separately to go with my A139, before upgrading to an A139 Pro. I just checked - it's 24AWG only. Thankfully I only run my camera in 2CH mode.

 

[tchavei]

It appears to be possible to check by looking at the box. If the two photos attached – "Side Mug Shot" and "The Usual Suspects" – shows the boxes in the same left-to-right order... as it appears they are... then the third box from the left in the "Usual Suspects" photo is labeled A139 Pro in the photo. Thus the third box from the left in the "Side Mug Shot" photo has a diagram of the A139 and the Hardware Kit on the side panel. So if you still have your Hardware Kit box, you should be able to confirm whether you have that version of the Hardware Kit.

BTW, FWIW, I ordered my A139 Pro and HK3-C kit directly from Viofo in April and the version they sent to me has the same box as the third from the left in the @Panzer Platform photos (with the diagram).

Thank you. What threw me off is that in the pictures, it's the only HK3-C kit. All the others are HK4 so there's no direct comparison between an "old" HK3-C and a "new" HK3-C kit. I'll check this afternoon if I have a diagram on my box (I saved it) but I suspect I don't.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. lol

I'd call it OCD. In any case my setup works fine now as long as I use time-lapse for parking mode instead of AED. So I don't really know if the AED screw up is just a general thing or if it could be remotely related to what kit is in use.

Cheers

 

[tchavei]

Well I just checked my box. It has the schematic but no idea if it's the new or old

 

[Panzer Platform]

Well I just checked my box. It has the schematic but no idea if it's the new or old

 

[majones]

I tested the maximum power output of the new & improved Hardwire Kit specifically designed for the A139 Pro.
In this post I will attempt to confirm & verify the listed power output specifications of hardwire kits that were sent with the following cameras, see attached photos;
6/14/22 A119 Mini 1
7/23/22 A229
11/29/22 A139 Pro
5/12/23 A119 Mini 2

Thanks for the data. Just to clarify, am I right that there isn't an "old" or "new" A139 Pro kit? There is just the one recommended HK3-C? Have Viofo ever recommended the HK4 kit for the A139 Pro?

 

[Panzer Platform]

There is just the one recommended HK3-C? Have Viofo ever recommended the HK4 kit for the A139 Pro?

The reason Viofo recommends the HK3-C Kit is because it has the straight Type-C connector instead of the right angle of the HK4.
The straight connector allows use of the optional tamper resistant bracket;

A139/A139 PRO Screw Mounting Bracket for Tamper-proof Security Guard Installation

Tamper-proof Security Guard Installation helps to prevent unauthorized unplugging of the power cable, rear& interior cables, as well as the memory card. Bundle Type 1：{A139 Screw Bracket} For Locking Memory Card & HK3-C Bundle Type 2： {A139 Screw Bracket+Right_Angle Rear Cable (1M+6M)} For...

viofo.com

If you don’t plan to use the tamper resistant bar you can use the HK4, but for the love of jebus please make sure it’s the “new & improved” kit manufactured after November 2022 made with 20AWG+24AWG wires.
If that don’t answer your question come on back, and I will confuse you even more. lol
-Chuck

 

[safedrivesolutions]

Did my full test on parking mode.
One thing I found weird is an impact while in parking mode does not save to a locked file. It only saves to parking mode.
That is something that in my opinion should be changed. Thinkware, IROAD, GNET, all save impacts while parked to an event folder.

 

[VIOFO-Support]

Did my full test on parking mode.
One thing I found weird is an impact while in parking mode does not save to a locked file. It only saves to parking mode.
That is something that in my opinion should be changed. Thinkware, IROAD, GNET, all save impacts while parked to an event folder.

The G-sensor has not been triggered by the impact of the basketball actually. If such a level of impact can trigger the G-sensor, then the camera will lock the videos when your car is bumping due to the rugged load while driving.

 

[safedrivesolutions]

The G-sensor has not been triggered by the impact of the basketball actually. If such a level of impact can trigger the G-sensor, then the camera will lock the videos when your car is bumping due to the rugged load while driving.

That seems confusing. So throwing a basketball at the windshield will not set off the G sensor? But yet the Thinkware, dash cameras next to it U3000, and U1000 both pick it up as impact.

 

[Dashmellow]

That seems confusing. So throwing a basketball at the windshield will not set off the G sensor? But yet the Thinkware, dash cameras next to it U3000, and U1000 both pick it up as impact.

I've owned or tested dozens of dash cams. The G-sensor sensitivity seems to vary widely between brands and sometimes models within brands, even when set to the lowest sensitivity setting.

It is all relative however. One user's "not sensitive enough" is another's "too sensitive for me", based on how you use the camera.

I happen to live on a bumpy gravel and dirt mountain road that can be better or worse depending on the time of year. There are some cameras where I've had to turn off the G-senor completely because of constant triggering with every bump in the road I encounter.

Viofo cameras work pretty well for me. At the lowest G-sensor setting the camera gets triggered occasionally if I hit a bad spot or washboard in the road but it is not something that otherwise ruins my G-sensor experience when parked at the supermarket although it certainly is not on a hair trigger. I might not catch every single person who opens a car door against the side of my vehicle but it would catch someone who backs up into me and tries to drive away, as happened to me before I ever owned a dash cam. ( Fortunately, I just happened to come along right when that happened and witnessed the event and watched as the out-of-state driver was just about to drive away, so I stepped in front of his car, held my hand up and said, "Where the fuq do you think you're going? License & insurance info was then exchanged.)

So, I guess G-sensor sensitivity depends on your preferences, needs and driving conditions but I don't think it is practical to engineer a solution that will fit everyone's requirements all the time in every situation.