ECOFLOW and Viofo

[GPak]

That's why I mentioned it: German cars are known for their delayed ACC.
A 5-minute ACC delay is probably the best case, more often it's around 10-15 minutes or so.
This means the Ecoflow will draw power from the car's battery rather than the alternator, which isn't good.
Hopefully, you can find an ACC with instant-cutoff, but if you can't find one, there's another option.
Instead of an ACC-activated relay, you can use a voltage-sensing relay (VSR) linked here:
Voltage Sensing Relay

The only caveat here is that some modern alternators may not always output above 13.2 V, depending on the engine and/or battery management system.
A test is the only way to find out.

 

[Karagandinez]

That's why I mentioned it: German cars are known for their delayed ACC.
A 5-minute ACC delay is probably the best case, more often it's around 10-15 minutes or so.

All German cars have a fuse on the ACC line coming from the ignition, which loses power immediately after the ignition is turned off.
For example, the fuse responsible for the instrument cluster.

 

[EricSan]

Another alternative with delayed ACC turn off is to lock the car doors immediately after getting out of the car, even if you park the car inside your own garage. Locking the doors turns off the majority of the car’s electrical system. My Volvo’s electrical stays “active” for up to 7 mins after exiting the car. Locking the doors turns things off within a few seconds.

 

[afro_thunder]

That's why I mentioned it: German cars are known for their delayed ACC.
A 5-minute ACC delay is probably the best case, more often it's around 10-15 minutes or so.
This means the Ecoflow will draw power from the car's battery rather than the alternator, which isn't good.
Hopefully, you can find an ACC with instant-cutoff, but if you can't find one, there's another option.
Instead of an ACC-activated relay, you can use a voltage-sensing relay (VSR) linked here:
Voltage Sensing Relay

The only caveat here is that some modern alternators may not always output above 13.2 V, depending on the engine and/or battery management system.
A test is the only way to find out.

Yep, I tested the batteries at two points today and they don't read any higher than 13.2v, more often 13v. So voltage sensing is out probably. These newer cars are so weird I just got this a month ago and was surprised that it has 2 batteries, an AGM in the trunk which I was planning to use for this install, and what I think might be a Li Ion under the hood.

Anyway, is time delay relay my best option? I haven't had the time to check further fuses for an instant ACC cutoff.

 

[Kuya]

Wow that's perfect, thank you both champs. My BMW feel like it keeps all the trunk fuses active for like 5mins, unfortunately. I could search for other fuse boxes though maybe something else loses power instantly.

I've worked on a few BMWs and so far I've been able to find a trunk fuse slot that would immediately turn off with the ignition and was also a spare(no fuse but had contacts). I've included a few images below to use as reference for the specific fuse slot I've used before on a BMW X3 and one that could work for yours.

 

[afro_thunder]

I've worked on a few BMWs and so far I've been able to find a trunk fuse slot that would immediately turn off with the ignition and was also a spare(no fuse but had contacts). I've included a few images below to use as reference for the specific fuse slot I've used before on a BMW X3 and one that could work for yours. View attachment 90056View attachment 90057View attachment 90058

Thank you all, your comment combined with some googling helped me find an instant off, fuse 205 the left bottommost 5 amp where you circled. And bonus it's unused (what's it say that fuse does on your map?)

Anyway thanks again all I'll be back in a couple days once I attempt this install, just gotta wait on a couple more parts to come in but everything seems ready.

 

[afro_thunder]

@EricSan @GPak So I started the install this weekend in the BMW and now it's time for the troubleshooting lol.

The good news is that the car battery is charging the River 2 and it seems to be working flawlessly. Starts charging after about 10s and nothing seems to be getting hot so that's a huge win, that was the part I was most scared of. Problem I'm seeing today is the dashcam isn't powering on at all. It works testing with a cig lighter adapter just not with my wiring that I did.

My thought is that I used too small gauge wire coming from the fuse box into the fuse adapter; it's probably around a 10' run to my dashcam and I was using 22awg. Other possibility is bad soldering of joints, either way same solution rewire with better wire.

My test DID use a poor temporary connection that I'm not even 100% was a correct way to connect in the first place, but see below I have the two ACC receivers, the relay and the hardware kit/voltage regulator, pinned together under the fuse tap. Everything else is wired exactly as in the diagram it's just 22awg specifically from the ACC fuse to the relay, and from the ACC fuse/USB to the hardware kit.

 

[GPak]

The fact that EcoFlow is charging indicates that the Relay is receiving power from the ACC, so you have a good ACC source.
Using 22AWG wire for ACC signal should not cause a problem as no significant current flows through the ACC wire (though I am not familiar with the specific model of your dashcam).
Nevertheless, I always use and recommend at least 18 AWG wire for the dashcam, (for better conductivity and durability).
If you have a multi-meter:
-Check the ACC voltage at the hardwire's splice/connection point, it should be between 12.6V-14.6V with the engine running.
-Check that USB-C to 15V special Cable connecting the Ecoflow to the hardwire kit is indeed provides 15V at the hardwire's splice/connection point.
-Check the integrity and continuity of the Ground circuit.
-Ensure that the connections are correct: ACC to ACC, Power to Power, and Ground to Ground at the hardwire's splice/connection point.

 

[EricSan]

As GPak indicated, that your EcoFlow is charging means you have a good connection to the car's battery, the relay is installed correctly, and the relay is receiving a good ACC signal from the fusebox. This is a great start.

As for troubleshooting the rest, just take it one step at a time. If your EcoFlow is turning on and charging, then your next task is to examine the wiring from the EcoFlow unit to the dashcam. I presume you are using the dashcam hardwire kit with the USB-C output from the EcoFlow. The design of the River2 USB-C output port is poor because it sits in a recess. That recess prevents a number of USB-C plugs from fully seating. As a result, you'll need to take a knife and trim the USB-C cable so it fits into the recess on the front of the River2. I'm not aware of the USB-C port configuration on the River3 - I'm hoping they made it a flush mount instead of a recess mount.

So, you might have to physically alter a cable, no big deal. Use another device (your phone) to make sure that when the EcoFlow turns on, you actually get voltage output from the USB port. That's your first check point. Go from there. Be systematic and examine/change only one thing at a time until you isolate the cause. You'll get there - it's a simple system.

 

[afro_thunder]

The fact that EcoFlow is charging indicates that the Relay is receiving power from the ACC, so you have a good ACC source.
Using 22AWG wire for ACC signal should not cause a problem as no significant current flows through the ACC wire (though I am not familiar with the specific model of your dashcam).
Nevertheless, I always use and recommend at least 18 AWG wire for the dashcam, (for better conductivity and durability).
If you have a multi-meter:
-Check the ACC voltage at the hardwire's splice/connection point, it should be between 12.6V-14.6V with the engine running.
-Check that USB-C to 15V special Cable connecting the Ecoflow to the hardwire kit is indeed provides 15V at the hardwire's splice/connection point.
-Check the integrity and continuity of the Ground circuit.
-Ensure that the connections are correct: ACC to ACC, Power to Power, and Ground to Ground at the hardwire's splice/connection point.

So the problem might be with my USB C cable? I'm only measuring 5V coming out of the River 2 through the USB (I did buy the recommended 15V USB but it has no markings so I cannot verify if I was sent something different). I tried unplugging from the River and testing it in one of the car's USB slots and same, 5V. But googling indicates that there may be a handshake where a smart device might need to request 12V in order to receive it and I don't know how to test that.

Everything else seems okay, the fusebox ACC wiring is delivering 13V even about 10' away, and the USB C connection in the River appears to be solid, I get that click when it's inserted and it is still delivering power (just not 12-15V like I want).

Actually on a similar note does anyone also have a recommendation for keeping the XT60 cable in place? Mine never clicks in or anything and it slips out the back of the River whenever its moved, was thinking of just puttinga strip of tape or 2 on it to make the fit tighter.

 

[EricSan]

This does sound like a voltage handshake issue between your USB-C cord and the dashcam hardwire kit. The hardwire kit is not going to provide any kind of a "voltage request" so you might need to source a USB-C cable that you know will allow the EcoFlow unit to output 12-15v. I don't have any experience with these, so I'll defer to others.

As for the XT-60 cable coming out of the back of the EcoFlow unit, you might want to give something like this a try - just wrap the strap around the cord to hold the plug in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0DGXD2JLT
I've not had any issues with that particular cable coming loose, but I've only used it with stand alone XT-60 input jacks that I've built into my DIY batteries.

 

[afro_thunder]

This does sound like a voltage handshake issue between your USB-C cord and the dashcam hardwire kit. The hardwire kit is not going to provide any kind of a "voltage request" so you might need to source a USB-C cable that you know will allow the EcoFlow unit to output 12-15v. I don't have any experience with these, so I'll defer to others.

As for the XT-60 cable coming out of the back of the EcoFlow unit, you might want to give something like this a try:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0DGXD2JLT

To clarify, the 5V I'm measuring is the straight connection of the USBC cable from the River 2, before it reaches the hardwire kit. I snipped my connection before the kit to measure the voltage coming from the battery but in theory the voltage should be converted from 12v to 5V 3A after it hits th Kit's voltage regulator right? I'm not sure why it wasn't powering my camera if voltage was reaching the kit. I'm going to try rewiring those connections into the kit with better wiring and soldering just in case I muffed up the job using the 22 gauge.

 

[GPak]

It appears that the Amazon seller mistakenly sent you a 5V cable instead of the 15V version - or perhaps you accidentally selected the 5V version yourself.
In any case, you can return this cable and order the 15V version you need.

Here is one of many USB-C to 15V cable options available on Amazon:
3A cable explicitly labeled "15V."
This indicates that the USB-C connector contains a built-in chip that negotiates proper 15V output.
Simply cut off the barrel connector and wire the cable directly into your hardwire kit, maintaining correct polarity.
USB-C to 15V, 3A Cable

If you buy a different brand, ensure that it is rated for 3A or higher.


And here is how to fix a loose XT60 Connector:
XT60 connectors are not designed to click into place - they simply fit snugly together.

 

[afro_thunder]

It appears that the Amazon seller mistakenly sent you a 5V cable instead of the 15V version - or perhaps you accidentally selected the 5V version yourself.
In any case, you can return this cable and order the 15V version you need.

Here is one of many USB-C to 15V cable options available on Amazon:
3A cable explicitly labeled "15V."
This indicates that the USB-C connector contains a built-in chip that negotiates proper 15V output.
Simply cut off the barrel connector and wire the cable directly into your hardwire kit, maintaining correct polarity.
USB-C to 15V, 3A Cable

If you buy a different brand, ensure that it is rated for 3A or higher.

And here is how to fix a loose XT60 Connector:

Agh yeah, that definitely seems the case after further testing, I definitely ordered the 15V cable but was sent a 5V...I was suspicious that they went out of stock immediately after I ordered and one review also mentioned getting sent the wrong voltage, the seller just sent me whatever they had left, no markings on the bag or cable. I ordered the one you just linked now, thanks. Also that XT60 fix is perfect I'll do that when I get home later, thanks again.

 

[afro_thunder]

It appears that the Amazon seller mistakenly sent you a 5V cable instead of the 15V version - or perhaps you accidentally selected the 5V version yourself.
In any case, you can return this cable and order the 15V version you need.

Here is one of many USB-C to 15V cable options available on Amazon:
3A cable explicitly labeled "15V."
This indicates that the USB-C connector contains a built-in chip that negotiates proper 15V output.
Simply cut off the barrel connector and wire the cable directly into your hardwire kit, maintaining correct polarity.
USB-C to 15V, 3A Cable

If you buy a different brand, ensure that it is rated for 3A or higher.


And here is how to fix a loose XT60 Connector:
XT60 connectors are not designed to click into place - they simply fit snugly together.

Alright the new 15V USB cable you linked did the trick! It's perfect and was way easier to test the voltage coming out because it came with an adapter. Everything is operating exactly as planned now. I'm actually surprised at how quickly the River 2 charges up, even with a 30min commute back and forth Mon-Fri it's enough to keep the battery topped off.

One question though, I noticed through the Ecoflow app that even when the car is running, the River 2 says it's still outputting about 14W through that USB C, same as when the engine is shut down, is that an issue? Is the voltage regulator just cancelling that out before it hits the dashcam?

 

[GPak]

@afro_thunder
The camera is continuously powered by the EcoFlow unit, regardless of whether the EcoFlow is currently charging (i.e., whether the vehicle engine is running or switched off).
The power consumption should be approximately 3W per channel during standard recording and up to 2.5W per channel in parking mode (depending on the specific mode selected).
Consequently, for the 3CH camera, you should observe a power consumption reading in the range of about 9W; And with the engine switched off, the reading will be somewhat lower, as the camera will automatically switch to parking mode.

Furthermore, the power output display on the EcoFlow unit may not be entirely accurate when operating under low-load conditions; typically, the Ecoflow requires a couple of full charge-discharge cycles to achieve reasonably accurate calibration.

 

[afro_thunder]

@afro_thunder
The camera is continuously powered by the EcoFlow unit, regardless of whether the EcoFlow is currently charging (i.e., whether the vehicle engine is running or switched off).
The power consumption should be approximately 3W per channel during standard recording and up to 2.5W per channel in parking mode (depending on the specific mode selected).
Consequently, for the 3CH camera, you should observe a power consumption reading in the range of about 9W; And with the engine switched off, the reading will be somewhat lower, as the camera will automatically switch to parking mode.

Furthermore, the power output display on the EcoFlow unit may not be entirely accurate when operating under low-load conditions; typically, the Ecoflow requires a couple of full charge-discharge cycles to achieve reasonably accurate calibration.

Ah gotcha, good to know. I realized I forgot to mention but my dash cam is just a 2ch, Wolfbox G900 Pro. So the River likely isn't calibrated yet.

Anyways, thanks so much for all the help. This project became a lot more complicated than I originally planned (more complicated than the install in my old Honda) but the good people in this forum made it as straightforward as can be. And I'm super proud of how well it came out, you guys are rockstars. Thanks!!

 

[EricSan]

@afro_thunder Glad to hear that you got your parking battery up and running! At this point, you’re pretty much at “set it and forget it” territory… 🙂

 

[afro_thunder]

@afro_thunder Glad to hear that you got your parking battery up and running! At this point, you’re pretty much at “set it and forget it” territory… 🙂

Thanks! Pretty much but I'm not done yet. Gonna 3D print a custom bezel & bracket for the dashcam instead of using it on the rearview mirror. It's been taking some time to model but when it's done it'll look great. I'm just glad I got the wiring completed; I'm no electrician so it was a bit intimidating wiring directly to the battery but it came out as clean as I could've hoped.

 

[dopacan]

Hi everyone,

Been going through a lot of threads but still not fully clear, so wanted to ask.

Setup

• Toyota C-HR Hybrid (don’t want to touch factory wiring, afraid of messing with hybrid system and warranty issues)
• EcoFlow River 3
• Viofo A329
• Considering Viofo HK4 / Viofo HK6

Goal
Fully isolated, plug & play. EcoFlow powers the cam, charges from 12V socket. No fuse tap, no grounding.

Issue
If I feed both ACC + BATT from EcoFlow, camera is basically always on.
After5 min - Parking mode is not reliable — sometimes it doesn’t exit when I start driving, transitions feel inconsistent.

Questions

• Is there any clean way to get proper parking mode without tapping ACC? I’m not very familiar with ACC vs BATT wiring, just trying to understand what’s actually possible. I’d really prefer to avoid the fuse box (warranty concerns).
• Does HK4/HK6 even make sense in this kind of setup without a real ACC signal?
• I’m seriously considering the XT60 Y splitter, any real advantage?

What can i do as a complete newby?