Force to move/remove magnet held Camera.

[Rajagra]

Save yourself a lot of money and go for a safe controllable one: http://shop.sciencefirst.com/magnetism/2850-magnet-lifting-500lb.html

Nah. If you want to pick up girls, you need a DEATH MAGNET!

 

[Harsh]

I've rather enjoyed Better Call Saul but my enjoyment is based on that fact that it is a prequel and the knowledge that nothing was going to be likely to ever top Breaking Bad.

Didn't ever expect it to surpass BB but still didn't live up to expectations, I guess.

 

[Dashmellow]

Didn't ever expect it to surpass BB but still didn't live up to expectations, I guess.

I really enjoy Bob Odenkirk and Jonathan Banks in their roles and I guess that's what makes the show work for me. Without them the show would be a complete fail.

 

[Lola]

You put a circular magnet on both surfaces, then as long as you get them the correct way up you have twice the hold, plus if you go over a pothole causing the camera to slide sideways a little, it will always return to the correct position because two circular magnets are self centering. With one magnet plus a washer each pothole will cause it to slide a little further out of position.

I kinda see what you're saying Nigel, would you happen to have a link to a picture of this? I have heard of magnets self centering before, but that was it.

However, I need some small steel plates to glue to a plastic mount so the magnets will have what they need. Any idea where you can get them?

 

[Dashmellow]

My vote is to use magnets that are rock solid once you mount the camera. With a dash cam, where accurate, detailed documentation is absolutely vital you don't want the camera to move at ALL. The notion that "if you go over a pothole causing the camera to slide sideways a little".....or vibrate is unacceptable in my book. Why knowingly use a method that might invite or accommodate movement when a stable, secure mount is preferable and easily achievable?

Anyone who drives rural roads or even drives over common divider strips and expansion joints on an average highway would be very unhappy with the video results if their camera were constantly "sliding sideways a little".

 

[Nigel]

I kinda see what you're saying Nigel, would you happen to have a link to a picture of this? I have heard of magnets self centering before, but that was it.

However, I need some small steel plates to glue to a plastic mount so the magnets will have what they need. Any idea where you can get them?

I'm suggesting that you glue the magnet to the plastic mount and the other magnet to the camera base so that you don't need any steel plate.
A photo is a bit difficult since they are never visible when attached.

My vote is to use magnets that are rock solid once you mount the camera. With a dash cam, where accurate, detailed documentation is absolutely vital you don't want the camera to move at ALL. The notion that "if you go over a pothole causing the camera to slide sideways a little".....or vibrate is unacceptable in my book. Why knowingly use a method that might invite or accommodate movement when a stable, secure mount is preferable and easily achievable?

Anyone who drives rural roads or even drives over common divider strips and expansion joints on an average highway would be very unhappy with the video results if their camera were constantly "sliding sideways a little".

I guess you only have small potholes, or drive slowly!

But ignoring the potholes, it is still useful to have a self centering mount so that each time you remove and replace it you don't have to re-align it - it always goes back in exactly the same place without needing any care.

 

[Dashmellow]

I'm suggesting that you glue the magnet to the plastic mount and the other magnet to the camera base so that you don't need any steel plate.
A photo is a bit difficult since they are never visible when attached.


I guess you only have small potholes, or drive slowly!

But ignoring the potholes, it is still useful to have a self centering mount so that each time you remove and replace it you don't have to re-align it - it always goes back in exactly the same place without needing any care.

The self re-aligning part seems appealing but anything that can lead to vibration or shifting is a bad idea as it will compromise video sharpness. Also, anything that can "shift" has the potential to dislodge during a car accident. My preference would be to visually align a rectangular mounting base with a rectangular camera base. How hard could that be?

I'm not sure what you are "guessing" at regarding small potholes or driving speeds but many of us drive on varied road surfaces that can range from potholes of different sizes, to expansion joints, divider strips or road surfaces in need of repair. In my case I live on a mountainous rural dirt and gravel road that varies throughout the season from smooth as tarmac to ruts and washboards to frozen snow to newly graded surfaces with freshly applied but temporarily rough gravel.

Regardless of road surface, I've learned over my six years of dash cam ownership using a range of different cameras and mounts that the more rock solid and secure the mount, the sharper the video results. Even a minor, virtually imperceptible vibration in a camera mount can compromise absolute sharpness. In one instance a Mobius mount I'd always thought to be fine (rear camera) produced surprisingly sharper video after I swapped out the original OEM mount for a custom built low profile mount that was far more solid.

 

[Bungus]

@Nigel is suggesting a similar installation like mine. The intermediate plate is aluminum to take camera closer to windshield.
Instead of mounting magnets directly to camera, you can mount a piece of plastic similar to a credit card cut to size to it instead.
This installation have served me well. Both in car and as a action cam use when needed. Just unplug USB connection, spin camera and slide out.

 

[Lola]

@Nigel is suggesting a similar installation like mine. The intermediate plate is aluminum to take camera closer to windshield.
Instead of mounting magnets directly to camera, you can mount a piece of plastic similar to a credit card cut to size to it instead.
This installation have served me well. Both in car and as a action cam use when needed. Just unplug USB connection, spin camera and slide out.


View attachment 26467

Go easy on me Bungus, my Monitor is shot and doesn't portray things very well, therefore the questions.

Hi Bungus, that looks sturdy enough. Questions: Is that 1/4 inch aluminum about 2 inches wide? Is that four magnets ,2 on the slide out camera top (glued to a thin steel plate/plastic underneath) and 2 on the aluminum glued directly to aluminum?

So when you say you unplug USB connection spin camera and slide out, you have a camera in your hand with two magnets glued to the plate on top of the camera?

What is the big magnet hanging from a piece of string for? Did you use 2 part epoxy to glue 4 magnets with?

Lot of questions I know, but I like to be sure of things. I really appreciate your posting, pictures, and helping.

 

[Bungus]

Deleted for correction.

 

[Nigel]

@Nigel is suggesting a similar installation like mine. The intermediate plate is aluminum to take camera closer to windshield.
Instead of mounting magnets directly to camera, you can mount a piece of plastic similar to a credit card cut to size to it instead.
This installation have served me well. Both in car and as a action cam use when needed. Just unplug USB connection, spin camera and slide out.


View attachment 26467

Looks OK.

I would use wider and thinner magnets mainly because it is easier to glue them to things, if they are wide enough and thin enough then you can just use a 3M sticky pad. I guess 2 pairs of 1mm thick x 20mm diameter would work for a Mobius, 2 or 3mm for heavier cameras.

Hi Bungus, that looks sturdy enough. Questions: Is that 1/4 inch aluminum about 2 inches wide? Is that four magnets ,2 on the slide out camera top (glued to a thin steel plate/plastic underneath) and 2 on the aluminum glued directly to aluminum?

So when you say you unplug USB connection spin camera and slide out, you have a camera in your hand with two magnets glued to the plate on top of the camera?

You want a reasonable amount of aluminium otherwise it will be too springy and the vibrations may cause motion blur, your measurements are probably OK.

Yes, four magnets. Two will work but then there is nothing but friction to stop it spinning, 4 works well.

 

[Bungus]

Go easy on me Bungus, my Monitor is shot and doesn't portray things very well, therefore the questions.

Hi Bungus, that looks sturdy enough. Questions: Is that 1/4 inch aluminum about 2 inches wide? Is that four magnets ,2 on the slide out camera top (glued to a thin steel plate/plastic underneath) and 2 on the aluminum glued directly to aluminum?

So when you say you unplug USB connection spin camera and slide out, you have a camera in your hand with two magnets glued to the plate on top of the camera?

What is the big magnet hanging from a piece of string for? Did you use 2 part epoxy to glue 4 magnets with?

Lot of questions I know, but I like to be sure of things. I really appreciate your posting, pictures, and helping.

It's as @Nigel wrote.
The aluminum is just scrap piece, any non-ferrous will work. Magnets are glued on a piece of plastic (old credit card) and then on camera mount. That piece on the string is the lens cover. On removal I remove mount piece from camera and stick it back to mount to use camera outside.

 

[SawMaster]

Were I to need a magnetic mount I'd use 4 Nd magnets for self-alignment. Even the tiny ones are incredibly strong when stuck to each other Just remember they are brittle and can chip easily if 'slammed' together

Phil

 

[kamkar]

Thats why i do not want to go for a magnet on magnet bond with the strong magnets, when you cross the "event horizon" with these things then you really got to be ready to prevent the 2 slamming together.

Thats why i recommend something in between the magnet and metal to increase friction, cuz i do think the bond can slide if just metal on magnet, but add a little rubber or similar to increase friction in between and the sliding should be zero.
The magnet on my rear hatch is actually also sitting on top of a pice of dual sided tape to make sure it cant slide on the "slippery" paint.
But it might be overkill as the other side of the magnet is just magnet to metal bond, and i have not noticed it slide or shift during driving.

 

[Nigel]

Thats why i do not want to go for a magnet on magnet bond with the strong magnets, when you cross the "event horizon" with these things then you really got to be ready to prevent the 2 slamming together.

Thats why i recommend something in between the magnet and metal to increase friction, cuz i do think the bond can slide if just metal on magnet, but add a little rubber or similar to increase friction in between and the sliding should be zero.
The magnet on my rear hatch is actually also sitting on top of a pice of dual sided tape to make sure it cant slide on the "slippery" paint.
But it might be overkill as the other side of the magnet is just magnet to metal bond, and i have not noticed it slide or shift during driving.

That is another reason for using wide and thin magnets - the force as they slam together is spread over a larger area so the impact is a lot less even though the total force is the same, also it takes longer to squeeze out the air from between them so there is a slight cushioning, also the thin ones have a bit of flexibility so are a lot less easy to chip.

 

[kamkar]

I think i would have used magnets with other size/shape if i had to start all over, but the ones i use now was just what i had at hand, or rather what my friend had and i could get from him.

 

[Bungus]

Were I to need a magnetic mount I'd use 4 Nd magnets for self-alignment. Even the tiny ones are incredibly strong when stuck to each other Just remember they are brittle and can chip easily if 'slammed' together

Phil

I'm already using 4 magnets. 2 on camera mount and 2 on plate. I did it this way so I can rotate camera if there's something interesting like a accident on either side that I'd like to capture.
Also the 2 magnets polarity on camera mount are different. Same as in plate. So each magnet on camera mount will stick to plate mount only one way and repel when near the other.

Agree with @Nigel that a thinner and wider magnet will give a better gluing base. I bought these from ebay when I bought camera so they came around the same time.

 

[Lola]

I'm already using 4 magnets. 2 on camera mount and 2 on plate. I did it this way so I can rotate camera if there's something interesting like a accident on either side that I'd like to capture.
Also the 2 magnets polarity on camera mount are different. Same as in plate. So each magnet on camera mount will stick to plate mount only one way and repel when near the other.

Agree with @Nigel that a thinner and wider magnet will give a better gluing base. I bought these from ebay when I bought camera so they came around the same time.

Thanks Bungus, I'll talk more later, it's after12.11am here and I'm beat!

 

[Lola]

I think i would have used magnets with other size/shape if i had to start all over, but the ones i use now was just what i had at hand, or rather what my friend had and i could get from him.

Why do you say "different size/shape", do you mean square/rectangle ?

Can you retain the self centering ability of disc shaped magnets of different diameters/thickness, like 20mm x 3mm thick on bottom and 12mm x 5mm on top. This is just a hypothetical question I was wondering about ?

I ordered the following disc magnets from http://www.banggood.com/ :
15mm x 3mm
20mm x 3mm
12mm x 5mm
20mm x 5mm
20mm x 2mm
This covers a varying amount of pull force from about 5 lb to over 18 lb .

You guys better get a Flu shot, this stuff is really messing me up!

 

[kamkar]

Yes magnets with a little larger contact surface than the ones i "have"