Hardwiring

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Olli

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So I am going to hard-wire my dashcam (maybe it'll be G1W), that would be my first dash cam. So it started looking after hard-wiring, and found this:
http://www.canadadashcam.com/collec...products/hard-wire-installation-kit-mini-fuse

The price is quite high, you can get dash cam with that price. So I tried to search ebay for that one, but couldn't find. So maybe you could help me finding cheaper one? Thanks! :)
 
Ok, thanks! Let me clarify:

I buy these, and the dash cam.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/351172642874https://www.ebay.com/itm/161393025349
Then I will plug the usb into the dash cam, then I just put the red wire into the blue thing (and warm it using hot air gun, is it heatshrink??), and then I take one of the fuses, put it to the black thing, and put back to the fuse box. But where do I put the black wire? Sorry for so stupid questions, but I haven't played with electronics that much :)

And I browsed my car manual (ford focus 2002). And from the fuse page I found "electrical trap door" fuse 20A (sorry, I don't know the real English word, but I think you can imagine that.). But my car does not have "electrical trap door", so can the fuse still give power ? If not, which fuse would you recommend? There are 7.5A, 10A, 15A, 20A and 25A fuses.
 
Jeez I dont know The end on that wire is called a bullet connector and it is a female end. You therefore need a male end on the wire it connects to and is crimped onto the wire.
If you dont know what you are doing get someone who does to do it.

You can use these https://www.ebay.com/itm/191354210001
What you are suggesting could overheat and burn your car down.
 
Could you clarify, do you mean that plugging it into the "electrical trap door" fuse would cause issues? Still I cannot understand where to put the black wire. Do you mean "Step 5 - Locate a ground point"
in this page: http://thedashcamstore.com/advanced-dashcam-installation/

nir, is it really required to "break the connection" in fuses?
 
No, i meant that you can use a burned\blown fuse in order to detect which leg of the fuse in the fuse box is the "live" one.
Instead of sticking the metal probe (from the fuse tester) to somewhere on the box inside that you can easily short connection on the fuse box.
Using a blown fuse without the connection bridge between the legs is a safer way than sticking metal probes anyplace inside the fuse box and can possible touch something you shouldn't touch.
Probably you did not understand what i wrote.
The black wire is ground. you need to connect it to the Chassis (the chassis is the ground\minus).
 
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ok, I see you edited the message. Now I understand it better !

But if I take "license plate light" fuse, I amm 100% sure that license plate light is only on when car is powered. So then I don't need to use fuse tester OR blown fuses?
 
The blown fuse is just a TEST to know which leg is the first to recieve the voltage.

Of course you insert a perfectly good and new fuses in the fuse box.
 
Ok. But do the legs really matter? Since the guide I referred to, speaks nothing about the "legs". So what happens if i just insert the fuse in some angle?
 
Ok, so it is just to make it more sure. Thanks for explaining it again :)
 
If you start from scratch why don't you consider using USB power bank option.
Normal 12v socket - 12 to 5v adapter - usb power bank - switch - camera.
If you choose big enough power bank there would be no harm if you forgot to switch your camera off for night.
 
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Tulihan se tuokin mieleen, mutta ajattelin, että ois kiva saada johdot piiloon :) Lisäksi autolla on useita käyttäjiä, eikä kytkintä välttämättä muistettaisi aina painaa päälle. Eli täytyy tehdä tuo hardwire juttu, eiköhän se onnistu kun huolella tekee ;)
 
Olli said:
Tulihan se tuokin mieleen, mutta ajattelin, että ois kiva saada johdot piiloon :) Lisäksi autolla on useita käyttäjiä, eikä kytkintä välttämättä muistettaisi aina painaa päälle. Eli täytyy tehdä tuo hardwire juttu, eiköhän se onnistu kun huolella tekee ;)
Click to expand...
Well, in english;) Both methods are good, and in any case one night with camera on do not drain battery since it consumes less than 500 mAh.
Right now my power is taken straight from battery because i don't want even that short power cut while starting car.
But if you going to use that power fuse which is "on" only while car is running, then you do not have to buy separate hard wire kit, just open that charger which comes with camera and make wire connection somewhere along that cigarette lighter plug wire.
 
Ok. I think more discreet way is to put those cables into the fuse box, which is located in driver's side. And it's a good tip that I can use the charger directly! I'll definitely do it.
 
Mate without being rude it is obvious you are trying to do something about which you know nothing,

Get someone who does to show you how to do it or it may have expensive consequences as if you short something.
In a modern computer equipped car you can do untold damage .
Even disturbing an air bag fuse could set them off at a cost of several thousand $$$$.

Its all very well learning but going in as blind as what you seem to be is dangerous to say the least.

Are you all sure the camera runs off 5v as all mine are 12v and dont need a stepdown Just a thought.
 
I suggest a fuse tap connected to a loose 12 volt socket with ground extended a common ground bolt near the fuse box. Plug in the provided adapter and secure with a few wraps of electric tape. Hide the adapter next to the fuse panel and push the wire behind moldings to your desired location. If you're adapter is too short, extend the 12 volt plug by cannibalizing a three dollar 18 gauge two wire extension cord. The dashcam is then powered and protected as intended by the manufacturer.

I tapped a fuse energized with the ignition. Records while driving and turns off when not.
 
throrope said:
I suggest a fuse tap connected to a loose 12 volt socket with ground extended a common ground bolt near the fuse box. Plug in the provided adapter and secure with a few wraps of electric tape. Hide the adapter next to the fuse panel and push the wire behind moldings to your desired location. If you're adapter is too short, extend the 12 volt plug by cannibalizing a three dollar 18 gauge two wire extension cord. The dashcam is then powered and protected as intended by the manufacturer.

I tapped a fuse energized with the ignition. Records while driving and turns off when not.
Click to expand...

Thats what I do with mine and its pretty easy to do. However if you dont even know what the black wire is for it may be a little more challenging.
 
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