i1000 / F70 / X6 720P Dual Lens DVR Dash Camera

Ran some video in the dark last night.

In all fairness, it's always very dark here and not much ambient light, even in town.

Not much to see and my truck "booms" a lot on the audio (it's a rather "hot" diesel). For the most part, the video is dark except in the headlights. I'll try to get one of the videos up on youtube later.

Oddly, when I use media info to check the Fps it shows 24 Fps vice the 29.8 it did sitting on the table. Not sure what that's all about. Is it possible the processor is working harder at night?

Some of the button pushes are a little wonky. Like the "flip" option. For example: sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes its press and hold the "REC" button, sometimes it's press and hold the "MIC" button.

The blue LED for "power" isn't on this one, it's amber. Much better for night use.

Hmmm, I'm beginning to think I should move all this info into it's own thread.....
 
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Carrying on with my original plans, I took the camera apart again to measure the flexible flat cable. Since I plan to remote mount the CMOS sensor, I need an extended ribbon cable.

Luckily for me, the board and the sensor both use flip lock connectors. Pop 'em open and remove the cable. Installing and extension is just as easy as buying a longer cable.

The cable turns out to have 24 pins and is 14.45 mm wide. Works out to a pitch of .5

part numbers on it are 20624 80c 60v vw-1

Pretty common stuff.

Now to measure the truck between mirror and planned DVR installation spot int he overhead console. An 8" cable should do it. About the same length as the mobius guys are using.

ebay will provide a couple inexpensive cables to try out.

:)
 
Hi, again,

I would like share this :

After several months of dashcam use, (i1000), I have this recurrent issue :

The battery of camera is not enough powered to close the last video file correctly. I have several files that they are corrupt. And my cam lost the date/time too. (but not every time)

So, I can't trust in my i1000 !

What is the solution ? to improve this.

Joël

ps : Gibson talk about his new dashcam named Novatek B40 / i118 : did you have the same issue with ?
 
I have no complaints with my a118/b40 other than a glitch where it will sometimes say card full if the g-sensor is on but turning off the g-sensor fixed that. Check that forum here for loads of great info.
 
Joe67 said:
Hi, again,

I would like share this :

After several months of dashcam use, (i1000), I have this recurrent issue :

The battery of camera is not enough powered to close the last video file correctly. I have several files that they are corrupt. And my cam lost the date/time too. (but not every time)

So, I can't trust in my i1000 !

What is the solution ? to improve this.

Joël

ps : Gibson talk about his new dashcam named Novatek B40 / i118 : did you have the same issue with ?
Click to expand...

Did you connect Cam to car power source when got files corrupt?
 
Gibson99 said:
I have no complaints with my a118/b40 other than a glitch where it will sometimes say card full if the g-sensor is on but turning off the g-sensor fixed that. Check that forum here for loads of great info.
Click to expand...

That was a firmware issue in an older version
 
jokiin said:
That was a firmware issue in an older version
Click to expand...
yes, i turned on the g-sensor again with the updated firmware you sent me to see whether it still has that problem. I left it on low sensitivity, and will check it to see if it locked any files on its own next week after i drive a little more. Didn't drive much this week as it happens.

Also worth mentioning that my f70 is now running as a single cam in the back window. It's over a year old now and the battery seems OK, even though it had to deal with a hot Houston summer.
 
I've been running with G-Sensor on for 10 months without a hiccup, there were some firmware versions with issues, some versions also use a different sensor which may be related
 
I got few problems, maybe they are connected, just curious if someone had/have these and know a solution.
First, I allways get a low battery notification when turning off power, usually it turns off even without saying low battery,
like there is no battery at all.
I already took apart the camera, checked battery voltage, and it was 4.03V
Replaced the battery, still the same.
Sometimes the camera restarts it self in the middle of the driving, while the power is connected, and its not because of vibrations or
any other physical reason.
But this is the less annoying issue.
When I check the clips on the SD card, about 50%+ of them are corrupted :[
And its on both rear+front cameras.
May firmware update help this?
My firmware is: f20_20130407 (I got the I1000L, the long bigger screen version).

Any ideas/solutions :O?
 
sounds like it just may be dead. try another sd card.

the corrupt files are caused by the incomplete shutdown.

i've demoted my f70 to back window, single-cam use now that i have the a118 in front. and they just released the a118c with a capacitor instead of a battery so it shouldnt have the issues you're seeing now.
 
niKoGran said:
Any ideas/solutions :O?
Click to expand...

this is a public model product, the original one which although not high spec was stable and reliable, the copies that came afterwards though are notoriously unreliable, unfortunately I suspect there's no fix for the product you have
 
On top of what jokin said, there's no known way for a user to alter the firmware on these. people have reported different fw versions depending on when they bought them but nobody has found a way to copy the fw off a device or load it onto another, so what you get is pretty much it unless you can get support from your vendor.
 
Maybe found the reason why its working so bad.
Yesterday took the camera apart, and accidentally found this on the table I was working on.
It looks like resistor I think, very small, without any number on it :\
Probably the camera got hot and the resistor just fall off :|

IMG_20150130_143905.jpg

IMG_20150130_144011.jpg


Its mini usb plug so you can compare
 
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yay cold solder joints! maybe if you're lucky you can find the spot it broke away from and reflow the solder to reattach it. if it's a resistor, it doesn't matter which way it goes. but if it's a diode, it DOES matter. i don't have extensive experience with SMD components, but i want to say most diodes look like a little piece of clear glass. and that looks like a resistor, since by definition they need some mass to dissipate heat. at this point, since the cam isn't working right anyway, it's worth trying to reattach it! maybe if it's part of a group of resistors on the board, you can look closely at each of them to see if they're pointed a certain way, and put this one back the same way.
 
So I looked on the board for the location of the resistor. There are many spots of missing component, as you see in the 3rd photo, but found 2 that look suspicious.
Sadly I got only one resistor hehe.
So I guess just to try and see what happens? XD

And I noticed now that one of the spots marked as F88, which I guess means fuse :/

img7.jpg IMG_20150130_212606.png img5.jpg img1.jpg IMG_20150130_212327.png
 
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what you see on that row of ESD## is normal. since the solder balls are still smooth, that isn't where your part came from. i'd vote for FB8 being the location you want to put it back in.

the yellowish goop you see near ESD10 and ESD12 is also normal. it's just flux and doesn't hurt anything by being there.

good luck trying to solder it back on. i suggest trying to reflow the solder on the board then once it's soft, quickly push your part into place with tweezers. that way you don't overheat the part. that's basically how it's done at the factory from what i understand.
 
There are 2 possible locations for the part, the FB8 (or F88) and one that isn't clearly seen, C41 on the first photo.
now the F## should be fuse, and the C## is capacitor.
the part I got is kinda black, so I assume its the fuse, as I think the capacitors are bright brown
 
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