Mobius Grainy at Night?

Hello all!

Got my Mobius a few days ago. I had checked some videos in YouTube and was impressed what it's capable of.
Well... I tried my Mobius outside when it was dark (well, at this time of year it's always dark in Finland) and the outcome is not quite what I have expected after seen those YouTube vids. I went inside and recorded a test clip and is was quite noisy as well. I'm not sure if I have faulty unit or are my expectations too high. See clips for yourself
(directly from camera):

Clip 1 (outside): http://rallikuvat.1g.fi/sekalaista/REC_0023.MOV
Firmware 0.59, WDR on, PAL, 50Hz, 16:9, 30fps

Clip 2 (inside, gray kitchen floor): http://rallikuvat.1g.fi/sekalaista/REC_0025.MOV
Firmware 2.29, WDR on, PAL, 50Hz, 16:9, 30fps, Sharpness -80.

As you can see, lots of noise and grain.

So am I doing something wrong or is there something wrong with my Mobius?
 
jokiin said:
Set everything to default values and try it again and see how it looks
Click to expand...
OK. I feel stupid now.

It looks better. A lot better at least inside the house (clip 2 place). Have to test it outside tomorrow.
Looks like changing FOV from narrow to wide was the trick. I didn't even remember I changed it.

Thank You!
 
I'd leave the sharpness at default values as well, you'll find the defaults are pretty well spot on for dashcam use already
 
PMM said:
OK. I feel stupid now.

It looks better. A lot better at least inside the house (clip 2 place). Have to test it outside tomorrow.
Looks like changing FOV from narrow to wide was the trick. I didn't even remember I changed it.

Thank You!
Click to expand...

"Wide"mode involves pixel binning.

Fuji%2BPixel%2BBinning.jpg


"Pixel binning has been used in astro-photography and micro-photography. In pixel binning, adjacent pixels are processed and combined into one large sensor, sometimes called a “super pixel.” The advantage of this is when you combine the light gathering capabilities of four pixels into one, you increase the amount of light you are working with in the image. So, the result is reduced noise in the image. That’s why it is used in astro-photography, where you have very low light subjects and a lot of black in the image. You end up with noise-less, clean images. Turns out, it works in regular photography, too."
- http://focusonphotography.blogspot.ca/2012/02/pixel-binning-is-here.html
 
One thing I did with my WRX is to do the stock H11 bulbs to H9 upgrade which made a difference since I live in a rural area. I'm planning to do a retrofit HID and for the time being have a kit installed which also helped with extra light which I'm assuming translates to lower ISO.
 
Is v2.33 default settings are good, or did you guys have figured out a better setting (exposure/contrast) that works both at day and night?
I'd like to particularly increase night footage, but without hurting day footage of course.
 
looking at this
it seems to me
that 0.59 gives you the best chance to catch some detail in motion, like faster shutter speed it gives least motion blur visible,
you can always brighten image afterwards, but you cannot unblur this motion


so i am wondering, should i downgrade to 0.59 when i receive new v3 c lens mobius, or is the new firmware any better with motion blur, is there any way to change some setting(somtehing like shutter speed?) that would directly affect motion blur?
 
My suggestion is to wait to get your camera and try it out. I just received my C lens and after a year with my A lens, I am impressed with the C. What a nice wide image with no flare and everything works fantastic.
 
GJHS said:
My suggestion is to wait to get your camera and try it out. I just received my C lens and after a year with my A lens, I am impressed with the C. What a nice wide image with no flare and everything works fantastic.
Click to expand...
well, thats the only thing i can do now, wait, but it will be hard to tell the difference until i get another one so i can compare side by side....

i dont know if its worth paying a lot for CPL filter, maybe it would darken the image less while polarizing more then the ordinary 3d glasses or lcd screen polarizing film,
i am planning to make some easy-mounting magnetic holder for CPL, but in case i forget to take it off at night, a better one might save me
 
can someone explain the sharpness, exposure and contrast settings in the "advanced imaged settings" tab?
Or is it only for still images?
 
No it's for video, though unless things have changed, big steps are necessary, moving the slider up one doesn't have much affect.
 
Necromancer said:
can someone explain the sharpness, exposure and contrast settings in the "advanced imaged settings" tab?
Or is it only for still images?
Click to expand...

I'd like to know too. Been playing with these settings every 3-4 days to see the difference. There are differences. But "A" lens with FW 2.33, I get great captures in daylight but night got worse. Finally set them all back to normal. Debating with myself if I should get another v3 with 'C" lens and use this one as action or rear view cam. Problem is my car is tinted very dark.
 
Bungus said:
Problem is my car is tinted very dark.
Click to expand...

It's all about the light. My wife's Highlander doesn't get good footage as she has 40% tint on the windshield. My WRX had HID's with no tint and does much better for night recording. Is cutting a small section for the dashcam to see through a hole an option? Obviously you want to use a stainless steel blade like Olfa so you don't scratch the glass.
 
dashcamnh said:
It's all about the light. My wife's Highlander doesn't get good footage as she has 40% tint on the windshield. My WRX had HID's with no tint and does much better for night recording. Is cutting a small section for the dashcam to see through a hole an option? Obviously you want to use a stainless steel blade like Olfa so you don't scratch the glass.
Click to expand...

Mine's tinted limousine. 5%. For privacy reasons which work very well. Even hi beam headlights from behind doesn't bother me. Had thought of cutting a hole for camera but feels it's not worth the trouble and not look good. Also it's done in one piece even covering the 5th brake lights.
 
GJHS said:
My suggestion is to wait to get your camera and try it out. I just received my C lens and after a year with my A lens, I am impressed with the C. What a nice wide image with no flare and everything works fantastic.
Click to expand...

Are u using C in wide(original) mode or narrow?
 
GJHS said:
Wide, mounted next to my A Lens for a best of both setup.
Click to expand...

Night recordings must be very different then with the 2 lenses.
What's your reason for mounting them this way?
I'm thinking of just using the C on narrow mode setting.
 
Bungus said:
Night recordings must be very different then with the 2 lenses.
What's your reason for mounting them this way?
I'm thinking of just using the C on narrow mode setting.
Click to expand...
As I said, I have the best of both, Wide and Narrow and not miss anything. The A set to record normal, while the C is set to Motion Detect. The amount of space they take is nothing and still quite discreet. If I chose only one, it would still be the A lens
 
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