Mobius support thread and Tech Guide (post all problems/help requests here) Read posts #1-8 first

SawMaster said:
@Isoiprop: Perhaps a sentence or two added to the beginning of post #1 explaining the situation of old information would be adequate. I know what a pain it is to read all the current 97 pages here, but that should help other folks understand until there's time to do a proper post/thread update. We appreciate how much work you put into this :)

As for me, I don't care what materials are used where in the Mobuis so long as it functions well on a reliable basis. Perhaps the GRP lens housing was a mistake, but with the past history of developing this camera I feel sure that any problems will be well sorted out with an aim to not render current owners equipment obsolete in the process if that can be done. It's still one heck of a cam for the money even if it isn't perfect in every way.

Phil
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I'm afraid I am not the author of post #1 or any of the first posts so I have no means of editing these posts. Sorry :(
 
Isoprop said:
I'm afraid I am not the author of post #1 or any of the first posts so I have no means of editing these posts. Sorry :(
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In my post on this subject I too hinted that it might be time for the author to update post #1. I know he's been pretty busy these days and hasn't been posting as often as usual. Perhaps he'll get around to it when he has the time.
 
Dashmellow said:
I'm afraid that the notion having a metal lens on the Mobius for the purpose of using a magnetic CPL is just a fantasy as all the bezels on the Mobius lenses since the beginning have been aluminum. As the primary market for the Mobius was, is and will probably continue to be the RC market, I suspect the changeover to a FRP module was to cut down on the weight of the lens. A machined ferrous metal lens bezel and threaded barrel would likely be way too heavy for this purpose and would also present problems since carbon steel cannot be anodized like aluminum. Even for the action or dash camera market you probably don't want to make the camera unnecessarily heavy or unbalanced.
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Fair point, I hadn't considered the weight aspect, so perhaps a cheaper option might be to have a steel ring machined to fit over the bezel, that way, users interested in fitting a magnetic CPL would have a means to do so. I discovered a company in the USA who manufacture bespoke washers, etc. at surprisingly affordable prices, and they ship worldwide, you can specify ID, OD, thickness and material.

Link is: www.bokers.com
 
richcam said:
Fair point, I hadn't considered the weight aspect, so perhaps a cheaper option might be to have a steel ring machined to fit over the bezel, that way, users interested in fitting a magnetic CPL would have a means to do so. I discovered a company in the USA who manufacture bespoke washers, etc. at surprisingly affordable prices, and they ship worldwide, you can specify ID, OD, thickness and material.

Link is: www.bokers.com
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Some of us have discovered that the aluminum lens bezel on the original version of the C lens would accidentally unscrew when you tried to focus the lens. This means that if you could find (or machine) a carbon steel washer with the appropriate ID threads it could be substituted for the bezel. It might also be cool if Mobius or someone else would offer a carbon steel aftermarket replacement lens bezel for the Mobius lens so it can easily accept a CPL. I think the main issue would probably be the need for it to be wide enough to avoid vignetting when a CPL is mounted.
 
MrCurry said:
Guys I'm struggling with in camera formatting on my möbius with v2.37 fw.

From the manual I understand I should connect external power, press and hold Mode button then disconnect power and await the yellow LED flashes followed by three flashes of red Led, then I release the mode button et voila!

What actually happens is I connect external power, hold down Mode button, disconnect power and then I get one flash of blue LED followed by three flashes of red from main LED and I then release the mode button. The problem is that after doing this twice my memory card is still filled with the same files as before so I think the card hasn't been formatted.

Am I missing something here? Why does my main led flash blue instead of yellow as described in the manual? Why is my memory card not formatted despite following the directions in the manual? Are the three red led flashes the manual refers to meant to come from the main led or the rear LED as this is not clear.

Would appreciate some clarification please.
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Hi MrCurry and sorry for my late reply to your question you asked.

Must say I've never actually formatted a card in the Mobius, have always ejected it and formatted it FAT32 using my Mac using the 'Disk Utility' app only because the cards have been either 64GB or 128GB.

What size, class and make of card do you have fitted in your Mobius because many issues tend to be caused by fake cards being used.

Am sure Isoprop or Dashmellow will put you right :)
 
I finally got around to replacing my unit that was failing in the cold.

The new unit, although I cannot test thoroughly since it is now summer, seems to work fine. I tried it in a freezer situation to simulate winter (this failed on my old mobius) and it passed.

Yay!
 
Glad to hear that you got a new one, is it the new version of C #2 lens?
 
Hi,

I would like to report a bug.

I have Mobius as dashcam on front and rear windscreens. I am using internal battery and am on v2.33. When I switch on my car (not ignition) the cam would come on and I would see the red light flash in my rear view mirror. This would tell me its started working. Then I would switch on to ignition and drive on checking the red light is flashing and it did that.

I upgraded to v2.37 and the cam now switches off after switching on ignition. It still comes on when I just switch on with the key and not starting the car. IT flashes 3 red, and starts recording. After this as soon as I switch on ignition, the cam switches off with no lights.

I downgraded to v2.33 and this issue disappeared. To use v2.37 I have now set "Power Off Disconnect" to 10 sec so that when there is change from "On" to "Ignition" the internal battery kicks in and there is no switching off.

I did further check using the Start/Stop feature, wherein the engine switches off if you keep the brakes pressed and comes back on again as soon as you release the brakes. Using both versions of firmware, with the original power settings, the dashcam doesnt switch off in between. This tells me, the car battery is sending some power even if engine is switching on and off. Hence when I initially switch on and then turn the ignition, dashcam should receive power all the time.

My radio doesn't go off even for a second, as there is no break in audio, however sometimes my windows stop going up or down if they are doing so and I turn ignition on. The only thing I can assume is, with initial switch and then turn to ignition, there must either a break in power or reduction to low level. This would cause the windows operated by powerful motors to stop, but the radio to remain on as it may be needing less power.

The new firmware must have changed the power sensitivity which is causing the dashcam to switch off immediately when car goes from switch on to ignition. a look at v2.33 sensitivity could fix this.

This would impact everyone who is using capacitor instead of internal battery, as the dashcam would switch on and then off when you start driving, not something you would want. Setting the power off disconnect to 10 sec would not work as there is no battery to allow that to happen.

My dashcam power settings are:
Power On Delay: Fast
Power On Auto Record: External Only
Power Off Standby: Off
Power Off Disconnect: Off
 
sona said:
The only thing I can assume is, with initial switch and then turn to ignition, there must either a break in power or reduction to low level. This would cause the windows operated by powerful motors to stop, but the radio to remain on as it may be needing less power.
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You are probably correct here. The different accessories might be sourcing power through differently wired circuits. With most cars, high-load items like your windows shut down in "start" to give the starter more battery capacity to draw from. Some cars will do this with all accessories. Since the radio behaves well during the starting process I would try tapping power from that circuit at the fusebox. If the radio had a 'courtesy delay' which lets it remain on after switching the car off, the cam would also follow along but that shouldn't be a problem as it would shut down correctly when the delay is exceeded.

Phil
 
"Power On Delay: Fast
Power On Auto Record: External Only"

Mine's running 2.37. Power on-delay. Power On Auto Record-both. I find with power on delay gives camera a chance to overcome the high power draw of the car starting. Give it a try.

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/attachments/m1-jpg.11462/
 
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Hi i have two problems here.
1. My Mobius Lens C has just drowned into a bucket of water while recording (i dont know for how long.. maybe about 20 min there). Now it can't be turned on, but it still charge normally (that green light).. any advice?

2. My mobius lens A has just been updated to the latest firmware, but now its resulting in rather smudgy and noisy video... or basically not as sharp as it used to :/. Is it possible because i once put it on my jacket and left it there and it probably get overheated? i can't recall if the smudgy video starts since i pulled it out of my jacket though.
 
sandyc said:
My Mobius Lens C has just drowned into a bucket of water ...
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I cannot speak from personal experience, however, I've read that the device should be placed in a bag of rice for a couple of days, which should absorb any moisture within the camera case. Then the circuitry should be wiped with Isopropyl Alcohol to remove any mineral deposits left behind when the water evaporated. Good luck.
 
russ331 said:
I cannot speak from personal experience, however, I've read that the device should be placed in a bag of rice for a couple of days, which should absorb any moisture within the camera case. Then the circuitry should be wiped with Isopropyl Alcohol to remove any mineral deposits left behind when the water evaporated. Good luck.
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yep. same drill like with cellphones..
 
Uncooked rice. "padi. sa-belum masak".
 
Pull the battery before "ricing". If the water was clean enough to drink safely there's a good chance it will be OK, but if the water was salty, soapy, or less than drinkable you should disassemble the unit (follow the instructions at the beginning of this thread exactly) and rinse it in clean drinkable water first as simply drying it may leave contaminants on the PC board which can alter component values and even eat away the board's traces. Wiping the board with alcohol once it's dry isn't a bad idea. Watch it carefully during the initial charge in case the battery was damaged.

Worst case scenario, you can buy another circuit board for about half of the cost of a new Mobuis.

Phil
 
Isoprop said:
If you press the power button and there's no card inserted the yellow LED will start to blink quite fast after about 5 seconds.!
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You get the same effect when the card is full. I accidentally discovered this today when it stopped recording for the second time with a second card. I'd been playing with the GUI setup yesterday and somehow turned loop recording off :confused: DUH- can I stop slapping myself in the forehead now? ;)

Phil
 
Almost new Mobius "C" here. My vids and direct-views look awful, it's as if the lens is a cheap plastic one with poor detail and a little grainy too. I've tried altering the settings, sharpness too. Seems the default settings work best and WDR is turned on. I painstakingly focused the lens in the van to it's best while parked, and got just a little improvement. It's frustrating to see my G1Wc provide better vids :mad: So a few questions:

1 Will the G1Wc lens work in the Mobius (both are 12mm I think but there may be a length issue)
2 Will the new "C2" lens and CMOS assembly fit this case without alteration? (I want to try this anyway if it will fit)
3 Can the "C2" lens be bought without the CMOS and will it work with my current CMOS?

Also open to suggestions of other approaches I can try.
Phil
 
I believe you should be able to swap the G1Wc lens into the Mobius module but it would likely be a downgrade unless you got a defective Mobius lens. The G1W lens compatibilty will have to do with thread depth and rear focus distance. From the sound of it, it seems as if you may have received one with a bad CMOS. See if you can send it back. Yes, the C module and C2 module both fit the new case. I haven't seen the C2 lens for sale yet separately from the module but I imagine it will be eventually, just like the other Mobius lenses.
 
Banggood.com sell the C2 lens.
 
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