Nextbase 522GW power issues

[DFIELD2000]

If I connect the 522GW unit via the cigarette lighter connection, including with the rear camera connected, I get a blue light on the unit and both cameras work OK.

If I connect just the main unit to the hard wire kit, I do NOT get a blue light, but the battery icon in bottom right has the "spark" inside which suggests it is receiving power, plus the camera will work fine all day. I do not know why the blue light is on, I'm guessing there's not enough power to charge up the battery, but there is enough to run the until.

When I think plug in the rear camera (on the hard wire kit), the unit will power down.

I'm guessing there's not enough power from the battery - but no idea why not. I have a 4 series and using fuse 143 which is the one the forums suggest, plus I've also tried other fuse locations but the same result. I always drive with the stop/start disabled.

I'd appreciate any help, I bought this model due to good reviews, but after googling this issue it appears that these units do have issues with the hard wire.

I submitted a help request on the nextbase website. but not yet had a reply.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Kremmen]

It's a shame you didn't check here first as the 522 has had more problem reports than any other dashcam from what I've seen. Normally it's sdcard issues and Nextbase insist you need one of their very expensive cards and format it at least fortnightly, and even then many fail. Second is the repetitive problem or the internal battery failing just out of warranty for which they want £30 to install a new battery. Most other manufacturers no longer use batteries but super capacitors that last many years

Is this the Nextbase hardwire kit ?

If so then check where it's wired to as many fuse piggyback locations are just not up to the job

 

[DFIELD2000]

Thanks for the reply.

I am using an older card, but it's storing the video with no problem when using the cigarette lighter connection so didn't think it could be related to my issue, but I've ordered a U3 v60 high endurance one from Amazon which should come tomorrow.

Yes, I'm using the Nextbase hardwire kit. I'll plug it into as many of the 5amp slots on the fuse box to see if that makes a difference.

 

[Hey Hoser]

If I connect the 522GW unit via the cigarette lighter connection, including with the rear camera connected, I get a blue light on the unit and both cameras work OK.

If I connect just the main unit to the hard wire kit, I do NOT get a blue light, but the battery icon in bottom right has the "spark" inside which suggests it is receiving power, plus the camera will work fine all day. I do not know why the blue light is on, I'm guessing there's not enough power to charge up the battery, but there is enough to run the until.

When I think plug in the rear camera (on the hard wire kit), the unit will power down.

I'm guessing there's not enough power from the battery - but no idea why not. I have a 4 series and using fuse 143 which is the one the forums suggest, plus I've also tried other fuse locations but the same result. I always drive with the stop/start disabled.

I'd appreciate any help, I bought this model due to good reviews, but after googling this issue it appears that these units do have issues with the hard wire.

I submitted a help request on the nextbase website. but not yet had a reply.

Thanks,
Dave

I also run the front cam with the plug-in through-cabin rear cam, using cigarette lighter and suction-cup mount, mainly because occasionally move the cams between other vehicles.
After a few issues during first year of using, the cams have been working much better now, no more issues of not recording, although I still regularly check that both blue light and blinking red light are working properly.
I was recently rear ended, and the cams both gave me excellent recorded evidence of no-fault for the collision, insurance is repairing with no deductible.
Good luck with your efforts to fix.

 

[Kremmen]

Find a fuse slot that only becomes active with the key in ignition position 2, they are often the circuits not cut by cranking the starter motor

And, when that card arrives, check them out with both h2testw and speedout0.5

Those 2 programs will check the card as genuine and the card speed. If the write speed is less than 50Mbps then that could cause freezing

 

[DFIELD2000]

Find a fuse slot that only becomes active with the key in ignition position 2, they are often the circuits not cut by cranking the starter motor

And, when that card arrives, check them out with both h2testw and speedout0.5

Those 2 programs will check the card as genuine and the card speed. If the write speed is less than 50Mbps then that could cause freezing

The fuse I've chosen is one that apparently turns off with the engine, which will supposedly protect the battery from draining - but I've also read stuff about using an always on fuse slot and disabling parking mode ( I wont be leaving the cam in the car anyway) - so not sure if it's worth trying one of those

 

[DFIELD2000]

So I've now used the next bigger size fuse adaptor up and used a slot which is apparently for auxiliary equipment - and now I get blue light on main camera unit, even when rear camera is also plugged in !

I need to ask a stupid question now as my electrical knowledge is lacking - the adapters have a supplied 2 amp fuse in the top slot, and an empty slot underneath which I understand is used to put in the fuse which you take out to free up the slot.

The original fuse space I used had a 5amp, but this new one is a 20a. Does this mean that this slot will put out more amps than the first and therefore is going to blow the supplied 2 amp fuse ? Hope that makes sense.

 

[Kremmen]

Yes, the dashcam needs 2A and the circuit needs whatever was in there before the piggyback

As I said, be wary of ACC fuses as they often lose power during starting. What that does is ...... the dashcam gets a signal from turning the key (IGN pos 1) and starts to boot. Then when you crank the starter power is temporarily lost, even for a second, and the dashcam shuts down.

Try and find a fuse that doesn't get power until the key goes to position 2 and the dash lights up. Those circuits tend not to lose power during cranking as some are needed