Quick question - Is the yellow ACC cable required for park mode?

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Hey all

Currently upgrading from my singe VIOFO A119 to a A129 Pro Duo 4K and wanted to use parking mode this time. One thing I seem to understand from videos is their hardwire kit they use has a yellow ACC wire and this is needed for parking mode. My hardwire kit only has one red wire and currently I had it to a fuse that only works on ON. My plan was to change that to a always on fuse instead. My hardwire kit also has a voltage cutoff box.

My question is, why do some hard wire kits have the yellow ACC? Do some dash cam need that and others work with parking mode with the red one alone? Am I good or do I need to change my hardwire kit? Tia!
 
I have two Blackvue installs and two A129 Pro Duo installs under my belt in the last year. Not an electrician or a mechanic. Here's my two cents, FWIW:

Generally speaking, yes, if you want effective parking mode, you need a 3-wire kit.

Some manufacturers offer 2-wire hardwire kits. Although simpler to wire up, those typically rely on detecting motion (or lack thereof) via GPS to switch modes. This technique typically results in undesireably long delays switching into/out of parking mode. The 3-wire kits detect state/switch mode by sensing power (or lack of) over the switched/hot circuits. Transition between modes is generally immediate. Most quality cams allow user-selectable parking mode entry delay time in the firmware too, VIOFO does.

In the 3-wire kit, one wire is for ground, one (usually labeled BATT) that's always hot to run parking mode when the ignition is off, and one (usually labeled ACC) that's only hot when the ignition is on (car running) to switch the cam to normal driving mode when the cam senses power there.

The separate BATT and ACC wires are what gives the cam the ability to know when the car is running (or not) so it can switch between driving and parking modes.

Side note: An OBD-II power cable will also function like a 3-wire installation setup, and will handle all those functions in one wire plugged into the OBD port. I use one of these with one of my Blackvue installations because that vehicle has no fuse box inside the cabin (thanks, Dodge...). If you go this route, same rule from below applies: Use one specifically made to be compatible with your brand of cam.

There are lots of YT vids explaining the differences in hardwire kits and how to use them, how to use fuse taps, etc.

They say a smart man learns from his mistakes, but a wise man learns from the mistakes of others. To that end, some general rules of thumb:

- RTFM. Read the f$*^ing manual. For the cam and the hardwire kit. Do your homework BEFORE you start. If you plug the A129's power cable into the power port on the GPS puck (if you have one) instead of the power port on the actual cam itself, you're gonna have issues. That little gem is only in the instructions for the hardwire kit. That I didn't read first.

- Find the fuse box diagram in your vehicle owner's manual rather than trying to figure out the fusebox while staring at it and imitating a circus contortionist under your dashboard. Come up with a plan of attack from the comfort of your office chair before you head to the garage.

- Figure out which of the three different kind of automotive fuses your car uses and get the correct fuse taps before you start. Have extra fuses on hand so that when you drop the one that comes with the tap kit or the one from the fusebox that you're tapping into down the black hole behind an interior body panel, you're not at a work stoppage.

- If one exists, ALWAYS use the manufacturer-specific hardwire kit for your car. VIOFO makes one for your cam. I just used same to install A129s in my sons' cars not long ago, they work great.

- NEVER rely on wire color. Some companies have red BATT wires, other have yellow BATT wires. They should be labeled, always go by the label, not wire color.

- When running wires to the fusebox, pay attention to where your airbags are. Run wires alongside or behind them, never in front of them.

- Be careful about which fuses you tap into. Avoid airbags, computers (PCM, BCM modules, etc.) and the like. Go for the simple stuff, like cigarette lighters, accessory power sockets, heated seats, power windows, etc.

- Unless you have a brand new super high CCA battery, never select the lowest low voltage cutoff settings. There are plenty of charts floating around that will show you the correlation between battery voltage and health. At 11.8 volts - a typical lowest available setting, your battery is already nearly dead. Especially if it's already old and weak. If you're going to be a regular parking mode user, learning about battery health and charge states, and buying high-quality batteries are a must.

- This ties into the homework first thing above. Some car makes are weird in the fusebox. Honda is a good example. Things that you'd normally think are switched are hot all the time, things that you'd think are hot all the time aren't. Spend some time researching other people's installations in year/make/models similar to yours, and see if they had problems or actually posted what worked for them (got a 2010 Honda CRV, anybody? PM me, I'll sort you out). Doing this homework ahead of time will save you a lot of hair-pulling later, trust me. Also, a lot of modern vehicles will keep some circuits powered for a short period of time after you turn the car off, so a circuit you THINK is hot when the car is off really isn't. This even bites professional installers from time to time. In any case, once it's installed and everything seems correct, shut the car off, stay in it, and VERIFY that it transitions into parking mode like it's supposed to. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise after the car has sat for awhile...

- Once you've got the right fuse tap locations sorted out, RECORD that info somewhere and SAVE it! That way, if someone else starts mucking around in the fusebox later to install something else and pulls your taps, you don't have to try and figure this out all over again from scratch...

All in all, not difficult to do. Just do your homework first, be patient, and be prepared to troubleshoot if need be.

Oh and troubleshooting rule number one: if the camera's not working, plug it into a powered accessory socket with the wire it came with and check it. Nine times outta ten, it's a wiring error down to you picking the wrong fuse to tap into.
 
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I have two Blackvue installs and two A129 Pro Duo install under my belt in the last year. Not an electrician or a mechanic. Here's my two cents, FWIW:

Generally speaking, yes, if you want parking mode, you need a 3-wire kit.

One for ground, one (usually labeled BATT) that's always hot to run parking mode when the ignition is off, and one (usually labeled ACC) that's only hot when the ignition is on (car running) to switch the cam to normal driving mode when the cam senses power there.

The separate BATT and ACC wires are what gives the cam the ability to know when the car is running (or not) so it can switch between driving and parking modes.

There are some exceptions, one being an OBD-II power cable, which can handle all those functions in one wire plugged into the OBD port. I use one of these with one of my Blackvue installations because that vehicle has no fuse box inside the cabin (thanks, Dodge...). If you go this route, same rule from below applies: Use one specifically made to be compatible with your brand of cam.

There are lots of YT vids explaining the differences in hardwire kits and how to use them, how to use fuse taps, etc.

They say a smart man learns from his mistakes, but a wise man learns from the mistakes of others. To that end, some general rules of thumb:

- RTFM. Read the f$*^ing manual. For the cam and the hardwire kit. Do your homework BEFORE you start.

- Find the fuse box diagram in your vehicle owner's manual rather than trying to figure out the fusebox while staring at it and imitating a circus contortionist under your dashboard. Come up with a plan of attack from the comfort of your office chair before you head to the garage.

- Figure out which of the three different kind of automotive fuses your car uses and get the correct fuse taps before you start. Have extra fuses on hand so that when you drop the one that comes with the tap kit or the one from the fusebox that you're tapping into down the black hole behind an interior body panel, you're not at a work stoppage.

- If one exists, ALWAYS use the manufacturer-specific hardwire kit for your car. VIOFO makes one for your cam. I just used same to install A129s in my sons' cars not long ago, they work great.

- NEVER rely on wire color. Some companies have red BATT wires, other have yellow BATT wires. They should be labeled, always go by the label, not wire color.

- When running wires to the fusebox, pay attention to where your airbags are. Run wires alongside or behind them, never in front of them.

- Be careful about which fuses you tap into. Avoid airbags, computers (PCM, BCM modules, etc.) and the like. Go for the simple stuff, like cigarette lighters, accessory power sockets, heated seats, power windows, etc.

- Unless you have a brand new super high CCA battery, never select the lowest low voltage cutoff settings. There are plenty of charts floating around that will show you the correlation between battery voltage and health. At 11.8 volts - a typical lowest available setting, your battery is already nearly dead. Especially if it's already old and weak. If you're going to be a regular parking mode user, learning about battery health and charge states, and buying high-quality batteries are a must.

- This ties into the homework first thing above. Some car makes are weird in the fusebox. Honda is a good example. Things that you'd normally think are switched are hot all the time, things that you'd think are hot all the time aren't. Spend some time researching other people's installations in year/make/models similar to yours, and see if they had problems or actually posted what worked for them (got a 2010 Honda CRV, anybody? PM me, I'll sort you out). Doing this homework ahead of time will save you a lot of hair-pulling later, trust me. Also, a lot of modern vehicles will keep some circuits powered for a short period of time after you turn the car off, so a circuit you THINK is hot when the car is off really isn't. This even bites professional installers from time to time. In any case, once it's installed and everything seems correct, shut the car off, stay in it, and VERIFY that it transitions into parking mode like it's supposed to. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise after the car has sat for awhile...

- Once you've got the right fuse tap locations sorted out, RECORD that info somewhere and SAVE it! That way, if someone else starts mucking around in the fusebox later to install something else and pulls your taps, you don't have to try and figure this out all over again from scratch...

All in all, not difficult to do. Just do your homework first, be patient, and be prepared to troubleshoot if need be.

Oh and troubleshooting rule number one: if the camera's not working, plug it into a powered accessory socket with the wire it came with and check it. Nine times outta ten, it's a wiring error down to you picking the wrong fuse to tap into.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, after further research I was able to see the VIOFO has a parking mode that works with a 2 wire hardwire kit. It will go into parking mode once the camera doesn't see any motion for 90 seconds. I've also read it uses GPS to know if the car has stopped driving for 90 seconds but not sure on GPS. I then read once you start moving over 8KM/H, the camera will go out of parking mode and back to normal cam mode. I was not able to find this information at all in the manual, pretty odd. Again though, this is only with the 2 wire set up. Anyways I will test it here and see if it works but I can already see it not be the best if there's always motion preventing it from going into parking mode and having the 3 wires would simply automatically make it go park mode the moment the engine if off. Gosh I wish now this cam had a park mode button ha, would be perfect with this 2 wire kit. Just want to avoid paying another 30$ you know and my current wiring is already all set up, just need to move the fuse tap to a always on fuse.
 
I prefer the instant switching of 3 wire hard wire kit, BUT ! If you are beemer boy, it is my understanding those can be finicky to install cameras into due to the smarts in their wire harness, and so a 2 wire setup might be the way to go.
Also not a deal breaker on the switching speed.
 
I prefer the instant switching of 3 wire hard wire kit, BUT ! If you are beemer boy, it is my understanding those can be finicky to install cameras into due to the smarts in their wire harness, and so a 2 wire setup might be the way to go.
Also not a deal breaker on the switching speed.

Yeah I would prefer that as well for sure. You're right to, BMWs are a bit more finnicky electrically but I can still just add another circuit on another fuse, I already know which fuses to use for always on power vs ignition power. The reason I'm not getting that right away is because I wanted to avoid re-doing the wiring of my fuse tap + pay more money. I was using a gift card I got to upgrade my current dashcam to a dual so I wasn't planning to change everything and this time around wanted to try out the parking mode since now I have a portable jump starter so if the voltage cut-offs fails I am not stranded, although I have roadside assistance to.
 
Hey everyone just to update my post as I reached out to VIOFO to confirm the information. VIOFO confirmed "Using the car charger cable, (or my hard wire kit in my post) camera can enter the parking mode after about 5 minutes when no motion is detected and it switches back to normal mode when the car speed is over 8km/h". That said, I removed the GPS module and it still reverts back to normal mode once I pick up the cam so IDK how exactly it knows it's 8kmh. I guess the G sensor.

In any case.... I went ahead and bought a new hard wire kit with the three wires for park mode. If the camera had a parking mode button I would probably rock it as it is, but needing to have 5 minutes of no motion means the camera will never really go in parking mode in any public space. Or if there is a fan for example, birds, etc. Another 40$ (Canadian at least) but eh, I'll be all set.
 
Hey everyone just to update my post as I reached out to VIOFO to confirm the information. VIOFO confirmed "Using the car charger cable, (or my hard wire kit in my post) camera can enter the parking mode after about 5 minutes when no motion is detected and it switches back to normal mode when the car speed is over 8km/h". That said, I removed the GPS module and it still reverts back to normal mode once I pick up the cam so IDK how exactly it knows it's 8kmh. I guess the G sensor.

In any case.... I went ahead and bought a new hard wire kit with the three wires for park mode. If the camera had a parking mode button I would probably rock it as it is, but needing to have 5 minutes of no motion means the camera will never really go in parking mode in any public space. Or if there is a fan for example, birds, etc. Another 40$ (Canadian at least) but eh, I'll be all set.

I think the 3-wire is the best way to go, for all the reasons pointed out here already.

BlackBoxMyCar is a great resource if you experience any difficulties with your install.

Good luck!
 
I think the 3-wire is the best way to go, for all the reasons pointed out here already.

BlackBoxMyCar is a great resource if you experience any difficulties with your install.

Good luck!
Out of interest, I've got an unusual, but simple question haha!

This is regarding the 3 wire kits. If I placed a switch on the constant batt wire, and powered it up, would the camera start in parking mode with the ignition off, or does it have to of had the ignition switched on, then off, before entering parking mode? If the ACC switch circuit is simple, then I'm ok, but if it's more complicated, then who knows haha. (I haven't bought the cable yet, otherwise I'd just find out for myself)

Thanks for any help :)
 
Out of interest, I've got an unusual, but simple question haha!

This is regarding the 3 wire kits. If I placed a switch on the constant batt wire, and powered it up, would the camera start in parking mode with the ignition off, or does it have to of had the ignition switched on, then off, before entering parking mode? If the ACC switch circuit is simple, then I'm ok, but if it's more complicated, then who knows haha. (I haven't bought the cable yet, otherwise I'd just find out for myself)

Thanks for any help :)
It would not start up in parking mode. If the switch for red wire was off, the camera would not start.
 
It would not start up in parking mode. If the switch for red wire was off, the camera would not start.
Sorry, you misunderstand. The switch for the red wire would be OFF, then switched ON, but the ignition would be off, and wouldn't have previously been on. This is an unusual situation that most people wouldn't be in, hence why I cant find any info on it.
 
Sorry, you misunderstand. The switch for the red wire would be OFF, then switched ON, but the ignition would be off, and wouldn't have previously been on. This is an unusual situation that most people wouldn't be in, hence why I cant find any info on it.
It won’t power on.
 
Sorry, you misunderstand. The switch for the red wire would be OFF, then switched ON, but the ignition would be off, and wouldn't have previously been on. This is an unusual situation that most people wouldn't be in, hence why I cant find any info on it.
Idk if plugging in would simulate a switch on your red cable, but the moment I plugged mine in after wiring all it turned on but in normal mode, NOT parking mode. I had to then cycle it to ignition then go out of ignition (I have my cable set to ignition instead of ACC) for parking mode to go on.
 
Idk if plugging in would simulate a switch on your red cable, but the moment I plugged mine in after wiring all it turned on but in normal mode, NOT parking mode. I had to then cycle it to ignition then go out of ignition (I have my cable set to ignition instead of ACC) for parking mode to go on.
Ah thanks, thats useful info. Not technically 100% the same situation as I have in my head, but realistically it is the same.

Sounds like they've made it complicated then, so I might just have to live with normal parking mode activation, rather than with the parking mode kit :(
 
Had some issues. Tried a non VIOFO kit first and didn't trigger park mode. Now got the VIOFO HK3 and it works but unfortunately my parking mode only lasts about 20 mins, and then the camera turns off. It seems to be when my car goes to sleep as in the parking video I can hear a relay/electrical click of the modules going to sleep right before the video cuts off. That said, I did confirm that the tap still have power with the door jambs closed and having left the car sit for 30 minutes so I'm baffled.

I will have to double check if it really has power (like I said, already tested with a test light) or I suspect maybe the constant power looses power for a split second when all goes to sleep, which makes the camera turn off.
 
Had some issues. Tried a non VIOFO kit first and didn't trigger park mode. Now got the VIOFO HK3 and it works but unfortunately my parking mode only lasts about 20 mins, and then the camera turns off. It seems to be when my car goes to sleep as in the parking video I can hear a relay/electrical click of the modules going to sleep right before the video cuts off. That said, I did confirm that the tap still have power with the door jambs closed and having left the car sit for 30 minutes so I'm baffled.

I will have to double check if it really has power (like I said, already tested with a test light) or I suspect maybe the constant power looses power for a split second when all goes to sleep, which makes the camera turn off.
If this was on a bmw, what fuses did you use and what bmw model and year?
There are different levels beyond the traditional ignition and permanent. The best way around is to use the supplies that bmw recommend for their own camera. If you look at my threads I posted one about hardwiring to my 435d and shared a link to some bmw instructions that cover most recent models to 2019ish which would be helpful.

If it’s not a bmw then ignore all of that haha.
 
If this was on a bmw, what fuses did you use and what bmw model and year?
There are different levels beyond the traditional ignition and permanent. The best way around is to use the supplies that bmw recommend for their own camera. If you look at my threads I posted one about hardwiring to my 435d and shared a link to some bmw instructions that cover most recent models to 2019ish which would be helpful.

If it’s not a bmw then ignore all of that haha.

Hey thanks for your reply. It's a 2011 335is. But yeah I went ahead and used another fuse that was constant. I think it's the homelink fuse but can't confirm for the E9X, the fuse diagram is just symbols and looks like hyroglyphs and they group multiple symbols under multiple fuses, it's a really ****ty fuse diagram. It's also different based on the years. But yeah works, doesn't turn off anymore until it hits the parking mode timer I have set.
 
Hey thanks for your reply. It's a 2011 335is. But yeah I went ahead and used another fuse that was constant. I think it's the homelink fuse but can't confirm for the E9X, the fuse diagram is just symbols and looks like hyroglyphs and they group multiple symbols under multiple fuses, it's a really ****ty fuse diagram. It's also different based on the years. But yeah works, doesn't turn off anymore until it hits the parking mode timer I have set.
Ah ok, yeah E9x aren’t as sensitive as the F series but still had a few variations on permanent feeds. I can pull up wiring diagrams to properly see where a fuse is connected and what circuits it’s through but it sounds like you’ve found a suitable one. The only other thing that can be an issue is the closed current monitoring, if it detects the battery getting low or if it see’s a current drawer over about 50-80mA it will start shutting down circuits which usually appear permanent.
 
Ah ok, yeah E9x aren’t as sensitive as the F series but still had a few variations on permanent feeds. I can pull up wiring diagrams to properly see where a fuse is connected and what circuits it’s through but it sounds like you’ve found a suitable one. The only other thing that can be an issue is the closed current monitoring, if it detects the battery getting low or if it see’s a current drawer over about 50-80mA it will start shutting down circuits which usually appear permanent.

Oh yeah that's right, I know some features turn off if voltage is to low for example comfort access. Didn't know though it might shut off some based on the draw itself. But in my testing, I had even used a battery charger to make sure it wasn't the voltage being cut off by the hardwire kit or the car and it still shut off parking mode right when the modules "clicked" to sleep.

But hey it all seems to work now, I've only tried it over 2 hours (the parking mode) but now I just came back from a ride and I'm testing it for another 6 hours.
 
Hi, do you recall which fuses you used for the dashcam? Going to install viofo a119 v2 on honda crv 2010...
Thank you.

Yup:

In interior fusebox (under dashboard, left side):

BATT wire (always hot): connect to slot #29: Front Accessory Power Socket

ACC wire (switched power): connect to slot #32: Rear Right Power Window

This will correctly allow transition between driving and parking modes.
 
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