the RC (radio control) and electric rideables thread

Hehehehehe ... Oh dear !

Loosing the props ..
Wonder if it has something to do with the motors desired direction of rotation ? ( CW CCW )
 

More Calamity Jane ...
 
old4570 said:
Hehehehehe ... Oh dear !

Loosing the props ..
Wonder if it has something to do with the motors desired direction of rotation ? ( CW CCW )
Click to expand...
I need some new prop nuts. The nylon lock part is getting worn out and sometimes come loose even without crashes. My first quad had different threads for the motors that turned opposite, and I never had those come loose.
 
Yeah.

I have the same issue on my RC trucks wheel nuts, if worn they will somehow loosen them self even more, though i run all ALU beadlock wheels ASO.
Its not like the wheels come off or anything and really not a big issue at the jogging speed the trucks top out at.
 
Maybe some lock washers ?
Teflon tape , cotton thread ?
Easy , cheap , quick and nasty trick = Cotton thread on the thread , tighten the nut over the thread . Should offer enough resistance .
 
No room for a lock washer - the flange nut itself is only about 5-6mm tall and as it is the plastic part of the nyloc only touches the top 2-3 threads on the motor shaft - the shaft only protrudes about 1mm above the nut.

The string idea sounds interesting though, can't hurt to try. (y)
 
There are still such a self-locking nuts: DIN 980 & DIN 6923
self-locking nut_ DIN 980.jpg self-locking nut_DIN 6923.jpg
or use LOCTITE thread locker (Red (High Strength) - very durable or Blue (Medium Strength) - positioned by the manufacturer as "detachable"), it is used for fastening in cars (engine, etc.), there are others also anaerobic thread lockers, such as: IMG MG‑414, Permatex 24026

PS: probably you have already considered such options, just remind
 
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T-bar on a diesel .
model aeroplane motors that is .
With vibration and a less than tight enough compression piston , the T-bar can rotate and the motor can de compress .
Using a piece of thread in the hole ( between the threads of the hole and T-bar ) was a simple way of increasing resistance .
The first time I saw this was with the Chinese replica Oliver Tiger motors . They were simply not made to the same standard as an Oliver Tiger .
 
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XK x450 VS JJRC M02 = The long version .
 
Leonauto said:
There are still such a self-locking nuts: DIN 980 & DIN 6923

View attachment 51356 View attachment 51357

or use LOCTITE thread locker (Red (High Strength) - very durable or Blue (Medium Strength) - positioned by the manufacturer as "detachable"), it is used for fastening in cars (engine, etc.), there are others also anaerobic thread lockers, such as: IMG MG‑414, Permatex 24026

PS: probably you have already considered such options, just remind
Click to expand...
Since the prop nuts are removed and installed every time I fly (I have to take props off to put it in my gear bag), I would be afraid the din980 type would wear down the motor shaft threads in no time. And while the 6923 type might work great for the 2 props that rotate the correct way, they would probably not be effective at all for the other 2. Really nyloc is the best choice for this application. I just need to stop being such a cheapskate :rolleyes: :cautious:

I already use blue loctite on the screws that hold the motors to the arms, as well as screws that secure the arms to the frame.

FYI I spent almost 10 years working as an ASE certified auto mechanic

I have a tube of red in my toolbox, but I don't think I'll ever user it again. That stuff doesn't even come loose with strong persuasion from a propane torch combined with an impact gun capable of 650ft-lbs in reverse! I found that out when trying to do a timing belt and front crank seal on my Miata many moons ago. In my early years of wrenching, I made a rookie mistake - the first time I did the timing belt on that car, I find that the keyway on the crank nose had a lot of play (common problem on that engine), and I tried "gluing" the key into the right place on the crank with loctite red. Apparently a fair amount dripped into the threads of the crank, and also glued the pulley itself to the crank. Years later when it was time for another timing belt, I ended up using a chain wrench around the harmonic balancer (braced against the concrete floor) and a four foot long cheater bar on the crank bolt to get them loose. Thank God the bolt didn't break off in the crankshaft! The chain wrench crushed all the belt grooves in the harmonic balancer (the torch had already ruined the rubber in it anyway), but I found one cheap online and also bought a new crank bolt, and cleaned out the nose of the crank with a tap. Something I don't care to repeat! So I would NEVER recommend using red loctite on something that will need to be removed in the future, especially something small like RC models! (y)
 
If you think the red is bad, try the green version which is meant to take up a slight amount of space for loose-fitting bearings. That stuff gives a whole new meaning to permanent :eek: I only use the blue anymore, but in my earlier engine-building days the rule was that if you couldn't see the fastener from the outside of the engine you used red. If it was visible you used blue.

Something which might work for you is 'gorilla snot"- the yellow 3M Weatherstrip adhesive. Even a coating applied to the protruding excess threads once a nut is in place almost always stays put once it's dry. A friend who used to race motorcycles taught me that trick, they used it on everything that didn't require safety wire or Loctite. Not pretty but it worked like a charm ;)

Phil
 
I have some of that as well. Haven't tried it on prop nuts but probably wouldn't work here either. Even though it gets tacky fairly quick, it would be messy and nasty getting down into the motors. Plus I sometimes have to change a broken prop during a flying session, so waiting for glue to dry wouldn't be any fun.
 

Micro F16
Video 4
More cooling and more lead in the nose ..
Motor still cooked , but flies much better .

I have done more cooling work and popped another bit of lead shot in the nose .
F16 might need a new motor .
 

More Sim flight ... Hit the slope .
 


Started 3D printing / Nothing better to do !
I have printed some spinners , next I will try and design / print a DLG pod / fuse for a small DLG
 
Pushing the "old" Parrot Disco to the limits with a larger 4000mAh battery (the stock one is 2700mAh) and also having the new TRAWO V3 action camera fixed on it's back with several fixing screws and pivot arms adding lots of weight and modifying the CG. To top it all there were also some weird gusts of wind because of the changing weather that had ~ 20-30km/h!

 
Dragged the polaroid cube out and found old video of me playing with my R/C tuk tuk in old apartment. $12, including shipping, on Lazada. Not high tech, but looks OK.

 

OMPHobby S720 with a carbon 6x3 prop , and it's a little windy !
 
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