VIOFO A129 non-IR 1080p Modified Firmware MODs Archive

[BCHobbyist]

@BCHobbyist

Here are some 1-minute video files for the front camera with firmware v1.3 (pre-installed):

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

What do you think?

Perfect Lens focus from those test clips. Suggest installing in vehicle with newest official 1.50 Firmware. Post a clip with view down very distant center street to check center focus. It looks like a keeper to me.

 

[kevindd992002]

Perfect Lens focus from those test clips. Suggest installing in vehicle with newest official 1.50 Firmware. Post a clip with view down very distant center street to check center focus. It looks like a keeper to me.

Great!

I just updated to v1.5 and here's the test clip:

OneDrive

1drv.ms

All good? I'll post pics for the rear cam when I have everything installed this weekend.

 

[BCHobbyist]

Great!

I just updated to v1.5 and here's the test clip:

OneDrive

1drv.ms

All good? I'll post pics for the rear cam when I have everything installed this weekend.

The stock 1.50 FW at 20 Mb/s looks great, that scene is perfect for image quality assessments, it passes all my tests for Lens quality. All it needs now is a Bitrate boost and touch of Sharpness. well done collecting test footage, enjoy your new Dash Camera.

 

[HonestReview]

@BCHobbyist

Here are some 1-minute video files for the front camera with firmware v1.3 (pre-installed):

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

What do you think?

Any particular reason you didn't follow the advice to upgrade to firmware 1.5 from Viofo.com? Again, I believe @BCHobbyist was telling you, as did I, to run stock firmware. But that updating it to the newest version of stock is fine. Just don't run the mods quite yet.

 

[kevindd992002]

Any particular reason you didn't follow the advice to upgrade to firmware 1.5 from Viofo.com? Again, I believe @BCHobbyist was telling you, as did I, to run stock firmware. But that updating it to the newest version of stock is fine. Just don't run the mods quite yet.

If you read the other replies of @BCHobbyist, he was telling me to test with both v1.3 (pre-installed) and v1.5, which I did (see my other responses in this thread). He was not referring to "stock". He really meant pre-installed.

 

[HonestReview]

If you read the other replies of @BCHobbyist, he was telling me to test with both v1.3 (pre-installed) and v1.5, which I did (see my other responses in this thread). He was not referring to "stock". He really meant pre-installed.

If you have the A129 Duo then you need to test using 1.5, because you won't be able to evaluate parking mode without it. But I guess if you want to just see if the lenses were properly focused, then 1.3 works fine.

I don't know if @BCHobbyist looked at your insignia, but you're in the phillipines. So running modded firmware might cause issues. It's still cold here and I am running 27W. Stock image resolution but 27Mbps Front / 17 Rear.....Which can cause additional heat. So you can try one of the mods, but if the camera acts up (crashes, freezes, etc) I suggest lowering the bitrate to another mod or back to stock.

I can't test now how it'll work here since obviously it's cold outside at the moment. But just a heads up.

 

[HonestReview]

@BCHobbyist

Here are some 1-minute video files for the front camera with firmware v1.3 (pre-installed):

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

Microsoft OneDrive

1drv.ms

What do you think?

Image look sgood.

 

[kevindd992002]

If you have the A129 Duo then you need to test using 1.5, because you won't be able to evaluate parking mode without it. But I guess if you want to just see if the lenses were probably focused, then 1.3 works fine.

I don't know if @BCHobbyist looked at your insignia, but you're in the phillipines. So running modded firmware might cause issues. It's still cold here and I am running 27W. Stock image resolution but 27Mbps Front / 17 Rear.....Which can cause additional heat. So you can try one of the mods, but if the camera acts up (crashes, freezes, etc) I suggest lowering the bitrate to another mod or back to stock.

I can't test now how it'll work here since obviously it's cold outside at the moment. But just a heads up.

Like I said, I did update to v1.5 (see https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/viofo-a129-modified-firmware-mods-archive.35826/post-457597). @BCHobbyist needed footage from both v1.3 and v1.5. I know v1.5 is required for parking mode to work.

Yes, I'm aware of the heat issues, thanks for the reminder. But I guess I'll use those at a later time. I'm still in the process of installing the cameras in my car now.

 

[kevindd992002]

Image look sgood.

 

[HonestReview]

If you read the other replies of @BCHobbyist, he was telling me to test with both v1.3 (pre-installed) and v1.5, which I did (see my other responses in this thread). He was not referring to "stock". He really meant pre-installed.

My Apologies, I see where later in the thread you did upgrade to 1.5

 

[kevindd992002]

My Apologies, I see where later in the thread you did upgrade to 1.5

No worries!

 

[HonestReview]

Like I said, I did update to v1.5 (see https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/viofo-a129-modified-firmware-mods-archive.35826/post-457597). @BCHobbyist needed footage from both v1.3 and v1.5. I know v1.5 is required for parking mode to work.

Yes, I'm aware of the heat issues, thanks for the reminder. But I guess I'll use those at a later time. I'm still in the process of installing the cameras in my car now.

Are you doing a hardwire install? General reminder, if routing in a newer vehicle, NEVER and I repeat NEVER, never route the cable over the side curtain airbags. You need to remove any pillars and wire the cable behind the airbag. Wiring in front creates the potential for obstructing airbag deployment in an accident.

The same goes for the wire running from the Front Camera to the Rear. Do NOT cross any pillars with SIPS . You have to remove the pillar and tuck wires behind airbag.

 

[kevindd992002]

Are you doing a hardwire install? General reminder, if routing in a newer vehicle, NEVER and I repeat NEVER, never route the cable over the side curtain airbags. You need to remove any pillars and wire the cable behind the airbag. Wiring in front creates the potential for obstructing airbag deployment in an accident.

Yup, I'm aware of this too And I know how to remove the A-pillar already. The hard part is routing the rear camera cable from rear to front. I'm still deciding whether to go via the roof or the floor. I have the 2018 Subaru Crosstrek, btw.

 

[HonestReview]

Yup, I'm aware of this too And I know how to remove the A-pillar already. The hard part is routing the rear camera cable from rear to front. I'm still deciding whether to go via the roof or the floor. I have the 2018 Subaru Crosstrek, btw.

Cable it 6M so it'll be a lot of tucking into the headliner. Might create some bulging. Also, not sure if there is anything in the headliner that might create an issue, but I doubt it. Far as the floor, you still have to have an exit point. So makes a bit harder for a clean install.

I have a Volvo S60 Sedan. I did = Remove A Pillar (Tuck Behind Airbag). Tuck Into B Pillar (Airbag sits higher than Seatbelt). Remove C Pillar (Tuck Behind Airbag). Exit at back windshield.

With an SUV, it is strongly recommended you route cables on one of the two black "accordion cable protectors" on either side. Otherwise you risk creating a short, catching, or pinching cable if you let it dangle.

 

[kevindd992002]

Cable it 6M so it'll be a lot of tucking into the headliner. Might create some bulging. Also, not sure if there is anything in the headliner that might create an issue, but I doubt it. Far as the floor, you still have to have an exit point. So makes a bit harder for a clean install.

I have a Volvo S60 Sedan. I did = Remove A Pillar (Tuck Behind Airbag). Tuck Into B Pillar (Airbag sits higher than Seatbelt). Remove C Pillar (Tuck Behind Airbag). Exit at back windshield.

With an SUV, it is strongly recommended you route cables on one of the two black "accordion cable protectors" on either side. Otherwise you risk creating a short, catching, or pinching cable if you let it dangle.
View attachment 45122

Right. An install on top would be easier but I'm just worried about the side curtain airbags. In the link that I gave above for the floor install, it looks like the 6M cable was "just enough", so no slack and not tight.

I'll have it professionally installed this weekend but I want to be the one instructing them what to do and how to do it. I know I should just be the one doing it but I just have no confidence in myself for cable routing as I'm a new car owner I did, however, was able to hook up the hardwire kit already, so no issues there as my course in college is all about electronics, lol.

 

[HonestReview]

Right. An install on top would be easier but I'm just worried about the side curtain airbags. In the link that I gave above for the floor install, it looks like the 6M cable was "just enough", so no slack and not tight.

I'll have it professionally installed this weekend but I want to be the one instructing them what to do and how to do it. I know I should just be the one doing it but I just have no confidence in myself for cable routing as I'm a new car owner I did, however, was able to hook up the hardwire kit already, so no issues there as my course in college is all about electronics, lol.

1. Roof probably is a safe route but, but yes, you'd have to avoid any curtains tucked in there along the sides.
2. On Hardwiring, make sure you are NOT tapped into any systems that are tied to safety OR to any electronics.

On my S60, I tapped into Power Electric Drivers Seat (if you have that) for Battery. At least on my vehicle, electric seats remain on whether car is on or off. And they were not tied to any other critical systems.

For ACC I tapped into the heated seats on my car. Again, not tied to any safety systems and only works if car is started.

I am a car owner too and have NEVER installed a camera before. But I learned via "Trial by Fire". Did have a mechanic solder and show me how to test fuses to determine proper fuse to use.

If you look back earlier in thread, you'll see we made a mistake and used a fuse (12V) that apparently was tied into other systems. So I had to move the ACC.

 

[kevindd992002]

1. Roof probably is a safe route but, but yes, you'd have to avoid any curtains tucked in there along the sides.
2. On Hardwiring, make sure you are NOT tapped into any systems that are tied to safety OR to any electronics.

On my S60, I tapped into Power Electric Drivers Seat (if you have that) for Battery. At least on my vehicle, electric seats remain on whether car is on or off. And they were not tied to any other critical systems.

For ACC I tapped into the heated seats on my car. Again, not tied to any safety systems and only works if car is started.

I am a car owner too and have NEVER installed a camera before. But I learned via "Trial by Fire". Did have a mechanic solder and show me how to test fuses to determine proper fuse to use.

If you look back earlier in thread, you'll see we made a mistake and used a fuse (12V) that apparently was tied into other systems. So I had to move the ACC.

I'll have to read more about the roof vs floor debate.

Yes, I have my BAT+ connected to a fixed voltage empty slot on my fuse box and the ACC tapped to the 12v (cigarette) socket. So no safety risk at all.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[Ramacher]

You ordered the Large CPL which is newer and works/fits all VIOFO Dashcams.
I created this Lens comparison graphic for easier Lens identification.
View attachment 44663

Looks like I've got the uncoated 140 FOV

Ignore the Lens specs on box, look at the Lens graphic I posted above to correctly identify the Lens shape, or post a photo here of your Lens.
4Uk or 6Uk is better for wide angle uncoated Lens sharpness.
Rear camera image quality/brightness will be less through heavy tinted glass and difference between 18 to 20 Mb/s isn't noticeable, only when its over 25.6 can you actually see the difference, use 2Uk or 4Uk for balance.
Enable WDR to compensate for the lower brightness of heavy Rear window tint, but expect increased motion blur.
CPL = Circular Polarizing Lens - should not be used on tinted windows, instead you can install fabric dash mats to 100% eliminate reflections.

Record test footage with CPL Off + WDR On using stock FW, then compare it against my MODs to determine best firmware for your needs.
Share your RAW footage/screenshots here.

So I should remove the CPL from my rear cam because my rear window is tinted?

The A129 and A119S will only be sold retail with the newer narrower coated 130 FOV Lens once all old 140 FOV Lens stock is sold out so there won't be any choice or question which is better. In my opinion the original wide angle 140 FOV Lens was a mistake which required precise Focus adjustment, wasn't Beta Tested enough, sold too early and required a larger CPL Filter which wasn't available but A129 was sold to the public anyway with many complaints of soft center Focus and vignetting with original CPL Filter. Changing the problematic Lens was necessary.

The big question is what will happen with the new smaller diameter Lens currently in the new Infrared Camera which my early Alpha/Beta testing reveals has better Focus and Color than 130 FOV Lens. The new non-IR version (Pre-Production) is now my main Rear Camera with 180 degree Lens rotation for exterior or interior views. It would be an excellent replacement for current Rear camera. The full IR Camera is designed for installation to windshield facing driver and passengers specifically for Taxi, Uber, Lyft Driver applications. Will this new Lens replace the A129 Front Lens in the future is unknown, it will be an interesting DIY Project.

link to my IR Camera thread here:

VIOFO A129 Duo new Cameras including Infrared for Uber Lyft Taxi

The A129 Duo Dual Channel 5Ghz WiFi Dash Cam has the most features of all VIOFO products. The accessories and options keep expanding and improving and now include new Cameras. This post will be updated will all Camera versions. The new camera 180 degree Lens rotation feature is a real game...

dashcamtalk.com

Now how do I convince CaptureYourAction to replace my cam with the newer 130 FOV Lens?

 

[BCHobbyist]

Looks like I've got the uncoated 140 FOV

So I should remove the CPL from my rear cam because my rear window is tinted?

Now how do I convince CaptureYourAction to replace my cam with the newer 130 FOV Lens?

CPL in rear window is useful to reduce glare but will dim brightness more if window is tinted. For heavy tint always remove CPL since it will also increase motion blur especially at night.
Probably a good idea to keep that wide angle Lens, its brighter without the coating so less motion blur at night, just remember to use the large CPL Filter. Many owners prefer it over narrow view and works best with full size windshields.

 

[BCHobbyist]

Created A129 power consumption demonstration between single front camera then connecting original Rear Cam, IR Cam Mono / Auto / Color, pre-production non-IR Cam. Limited each camera test to 15 seconds revealing the peak Amp pattern, longer duration average will be slightly lower. As expected the IR Camera draws the most power when IR Lamps are activated in Mono Mode.