Viofo A229 - Dual channel 2K+2K dashcam with Wi-Fi

Are you basing that figure of 4 on the Frequency of ~120Hz?
Where do you get 4 times but three images?
I can see 4 rings, although the ring at each end of the sequence appears to be only half width, so if we assume a 1/30th second exposure then it would need 90Hz. But we really don't know what the exposure was, I wouldn't be surprised if it is actually 120Hz and the dashcam exposure was 1/(120/3) seconds.
Are you suggesting that in one frame the dashcam has perfectly recorded 3 images? I can't see how that is the answer. Any other possible solutions that might equally apply?
I wouldn't say that they are perfectly recorded, but that lamp is the only part of that video which has multiple images in a single frame, so the effect is fairly clearly caused by the lamp, not the camera. Furthermore, the amount of movement across all 4 images of the lamp combined is the same as the amount of motion blur on other objects at a similar position in the image, so we know the length of the exposure and can see that the lamp should have had much more motion blur than it has, thus it is clear that the lamp was not on for the full exposure time.
I can't always find my previous posts but I have finally.
You know that you can click on the up arrows at the top of the quotes to get back to your post with the image, then use the back button to return here...
 
Let's also look at the poles to the left of the LED-illuminated sign, where the effect doesn't show. That clearly indicates that the multiple-imaging isn't inherent in the cam.

LED's operate on a wide range of frequencies so anomalies like this are to be expected and will vary wildly from light to light. If perfectly matched with the frame-rate they can even disappear and appear to be off o_O The most important part of assessing anything is to ensure that you are looking at the true source of the issue; otherwise you'll likely get the wrong answers ;)

Phil
 
Let's also look at the poles to the left of the LED-illuminated sign, where the effect doesn't show. That clearly indicates that the multiple-imaging isn't inherent in the cam.
Or even the pole above the lamp, since I think the lamp is downwards facing onto the front of the sign, and is also illuminating the sign and the pole below the sign, but not the pole above the sign which is simply motion blurred for the length of the exposure:

1653776892632-png.60652
 
so if we assume a 1/30th second exposure then it would need 90Hz.
I based it on 4, not 3. So 120Hz
lamp is the only part of that video which has multiple images in a single frame, so the effect is fairly clearly caused by the lamp, not the camera.
There are many parts of the video with blurred images. You may not notice it while the video is playing but pause it and it is obvious.
up arrows at the top of the quotes to get back to your post
Yeah, thanks. I knew that but just found if I click on my profile name then it becomes soooo much easier to find previous posts in different threads which is what I was trying to do.
Let's also look at the poles to the left of the LED-illuminated sign, where the effect doesn't show. That clearly indicates that the multiple-imaging isn't inherent in the cam.
Yes in that still shot but not in other parts of the video. 1654053091512.png

*****
I don't think Viofo has achieved the goal I am hoping for - legible still frame capture during night driving. This could be why number plates are so hard to capture.

I have an old dash cam that could do it so I know it is possible.
 

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Not sure if anyone asked already...or maybe I missed it?
What's the bitrate at the "maximum" setting, front and rear running 2K each? Both with H264 and H265?
 
The 5 pin mount socket. Like the A119 Mini, it has gained a pin compared to previous Viofo dashcams, which will allow the GPS receiver to be turned off in parking mode, thus extending battery life.
It seems to have read everything, but I missed this moment. :unsure:
 
The 5 pin mount socket. Like the A119 Mini, it has gained a pin compared to previous Viofo dashcams, which will allow the GPS receiver to be turned off in parking mode, thus extending battery life.
If the GPS receiver turns off during parking, then the LEd should turn off too ...
It stays on all the time on my models. :unsure:
 
If the GPS receiver turns off during parking, then the LEd should turn off too ...
It stays on all the time on my models. :unsure:
You have to change it from app. Otherwise standard settings is all on, leds and GPS.
 
You have to change it from app. Otherwise standard settings is all on, leds and GPS.
You can go to the application by connecting it to A 229 Duo and take a screenshot of this item, otherwise I don’t see this in my place. :unsure:
 
Maybe I was in error when I saw "my models" in your post. I was assuming that you are referring also for T130. I don't know if this option is available on A229.
Still, I will post a picture a little bit later, if you still need it.
 
Maybe I was in error when I saw "my models" in your post. I was assuming that you are referring also for T130. I don't know if this option is available on A229.
Still, I will post a picture a little bit later, if you still need it.
I know what settings the T130 has.
In the Viofo application, each model has its own settings,
which may vary from model to model.

We are in the topic Viofo A229. ;)
 
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If mounting over that dotted layer near the rear view mirror, is it better to use the 3M adhesive pad or the static sticker?
 
If mounting over that dotted layer near the rear view mirror, is it better to use the 3M adhesive pad or the static sticker?
The static sticker may not stick if the bumps are raised or have texture to them, the 3M pad will stick fine, as long as the windscreen is grease free - use some detergent to clean it first, and don't use any form of polish!
 
Installed the A229 today - bit of a problem, camera just wont power on with the HK4 hardwire kit (also with Viofo fuse tap piggybacks). Both front and rear camera work fine with the cigarette socket connection though.

For the HK4 I tried grounding in two common grounding points for my car (Mazda 3 2016), tried battery wire connected via the fuse tap to 4 different always on fuses (10A, 15A, 20A, 25A) which show 12 volts with a multimeter when engine is off and confirmed the shows the same when engine is on. Tried the ACC on various fuses that turn off with the ignition (again confirmed with multimeter). I'm using the right fuse slots as I've tried all of the On/ACC ones. I have a crimping tool and crimped properly. The fuse box is near the footwell and uses low profile mini blade fuses, tried the Viofo supplied matching fuse taps, no joy, also tried normal mini blade fuses and the Viofo taps, still no joy. Bit stumped about what the problem is. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to test the hardwire kit outside of the car (or pre-installation which would've been ideal). One physical problem I did have is because the fuse box is so near the door frame I could only insert the fuse taps upside down, was under the impression this wouldn't matter (and still could read 12v off the fuses).

Any tips?
 
Any tips?
Try twisting the red and yellow wires together and connecting to the ACC fuse, the black wire to the car ground,
turn on the ignition and wait 10 seconds. You may hear the sound of turning on the DVR if they are enabled in the settings.
 
Installed the A229 today - bit of a problem, camera just wont power on with the HK4 hardwire kit (also with Viofo fuse tap piggybacks). Both front and rear camera work fine with the cigarette socket connection though.

For the HK4 I tried grounding in two common grounding points for my car (Mazda 3 2016), tried battery wire connected via the fuse tap to 4 different always on fuses (10A, 15A, 20A, 25A) which show 12 volts with a multimeter when engine is off and confirmed the shows the same when engine is on. Tried the ACC on various fuses that turn off with the ignition (again confirmed with multimeter). I'm using the right fuse slots as I've tried all of the On/ACC ones. I have a crimping tool and crimped properly. The fuse box is near the footwell and uses low profile mini blade fuses, tried the Viofo supplied matching fuse taps, no joy, also tried normal mini blade fuses and the Viofo taps, still no joy. Bit stumped about what the problem is. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to test the hardwire kit outside of the car (or pre-installation which would've been ideal). One physical problem I did have is because the fuse box is so near the door frame I could only insert the fuse taps upside down, was under the impression this wouldn't matter (and still could read 12v off the fuses).

Any tips?
I used that website from Street Guardian to figure out where to hookup my SG9667DC2K to my 2021 Mazda CX-5. I have linked the above for your 2016 Mazda 3, it should be the same recommended fuse locations regardless of which dashcam that you are using.
Fuse type: Mini ATO Low Profile Fuse...same as my 2021 Mazda CX-5.
Hope that helps.
 
Can you see a red LED inside the HK4? This indicates that it is powered.

Note that you will probably need to connect the ACC wire (turn the ignition on) before you get any power from the HK4.

If you have a multimeter, check that your ground wire is actually connected to ground, you can do a continuity check between your wire and some other grounded metal. You can also check the voltage between your wire and a real ground such as the battery terminal, which should be 0.0 volts.
 
Thanks for all the tips. Have got it working after undoing and re-doing the connections including ground, and buying a different set of mini fuses and fuse taps, and using the Street Guardian suggested fuse locations. I think most likely I made an error somewhere, not sure where exactly (maybe didn't get a good ground connection). Very happy with it, everything working fine and car goes into parking mode with no problems, so thanks again all.
 
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