Which fuses to tap for SGDCHW hardwire parking?

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I'm going to try the fuel opener for constant and possibly the power cig outlet. ECU IGN 1 fuse seems to control some saftey stuff like traction control system.

I read that the cutoff delay for things like dome lights and power windows is somehow after the fuse, so that the fuse is constantly hot but there still is a delayed cutoff to protect the battery?
The cig outlet should be switched - it was in my Toyota Highlander so I don't see any reason for a change in the Lexus. (If you have one in the cargo area it may be hot full time.) The horn should be a full time hot circuit and easy enough to check.
 
The cig outlet should be switched - it was in my Toyota Highlander so I don't see any reason for a change in the Lexus. (If you have one in the cargo area it may be hot full time.) The horn should be a full time hot circuit and easy enough to check.
Horn and Hazards are in the engine fuse box, seems like I don't have many good options.

Also when routing the cables. I assume you start at the camera end and work your way down the a pillar to the fuse box so you can tuck excess cable down there.

For the rear camera, thinking of going over the passenger side and right side of the vehicle, but do you start are the front camera or mount the rear camera first; where would you tuck the excess.

Tbh mounting the cables seems like its going to be very difficult
 
Why would you not use the switched power outlet circuit as its unlikely its gonna be used for anything else?
IF I were you I would consider wiring for the read cam under or along the door sill rather than along the headliner. Reason is side curtain airbags. I don't know why no one ever discusses this.
Thats pretty much my plan. The only hesitation is the FUELOPN circuit only uses a 7.5A fuse indicating the supply wire may be thinner than other alteratives but seems there is no choice as dont want interference with more critical operations of the car.
 
The included 6 meter cable (one end has a straight plug) generally isn’t long enough to go down and back up again. We do offer a special 6.5 meter cable but the plug is 90 degree on both ends so not easy to route through small grommet holes.
 
Why would you not use the switched power outlet circuit as its unlikely its gonna be used for anything else?
IF I were you I would consider wiring for the read cam under or along the door sill rather than along the headliner. Reason is side curtain airbags. I don't know why no one ever discusses this.

side curtain airbags get mentioned all the time, I'd still go through the roof in preference to along the floor though
 
just gotta watch the wire so it doesnt get in the way of inflation of the bags. i ran my wires behind mine and make sure they are secured enough to not get in the way.
 
ECU IGN 1 is fine because it is has many non-safety things on it as well - if it was critical it would usually be by itself. Traction control, etc. really isn't a safety item per-say, it's more an assistance feature. But if you are still worried ECU IGN 2 is also a good choice. I would not have an issue tapping either of the ECU IGN ones - Anything with ABS or Airbags is always a no-no, some others you try to avoid if possible, but if you can't, that's where the relay comes in.

As for the 7.5A ECU IGN 1, with it having all that stuff on it, it's driving a relay somewhere else down the car. A dashcam takes at most 1 or 2, so your not adding much if any strain to the circuit. IIRC the SG takes about 750ma of running current. There is also an input wire to the fuse block and an output wire - both could be different sizes.

Either way, again, I would not be concerned about it if it was me and I tend to air on the side of caution.
If it STILL worries you - Your best solution is again, a relay - provide a dedicated source of power from the battery, or use the included cigar plug.
 
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My 17’ Forester was very easy to route/hide cables.



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ECU IGN 1 is fine because it is has many non-safety things on it as well - if it was critical it would usually be by itself. Traction control, etc. really isn't a safety item per-say, it's more an assistance feature. But if you are still worried ECU IGN 2 is also a good choice. I would not have an issue tapping either of the ECU IGN ones - Anything with ABS or Airbags is always a no-no, some others you try to avoid if possible, but if you can't, that's where the relay comes in.

As for the 7.5A ECU IGN 1, with it having all that stuff on it, it's driving a relay somewhere else down the car. A dashcam takes at most 1 or 2, so your not adding much if any strain to the circuit. IIRC the SG takes about 750ma of running current. There is also an input wire to the fuse block and an output wire - both could be different sizes.

Either way, again, I would not be concerned about it if it was me and I tend to air on the side of caution.
If it STILL worries you - Your best solution is again, a relay - provide a dedicated source of power from the battery, or use the included cigar plug.
I want to learn what is the downside of FUELOPN 7.5 amp and one of the power outlets? Why not those?
 
I was responding to one of your earlier posts. Wasn't aware you picked different ones -
To answer your question probably nothing. But keep in mind some vehicles have timers where they will keep the circuits alive for a few minutes after the car is turned off, then the circuit will be turned off. Open a door it comes back alive for a few minutes. If the power outlet is constant battery powered it should work fine for the BAT connection. Some don't like using those because they have varying power loads when using the power outlet, it can cause problems with voltage dips or too much current when tapped causing whatever is tapped onto that circuit to power cycle or turn off. Just keep that in mind not to plug anything too hungry into it and you should be fine (cell phone chargers, etc. are fine).
 
So I installed the front cam just now, tapping into ECU IGN 1 and fuel door opener. I have the rear cam mounted but not connected yet as routing that cable will take a while.

I'm not sure if parking mode is working. I just updated the firmware btw. But when I turn the car off the screen shuts off, and stays off. If you press the power button or record, the screen doesn't wake up, but interestingly the REC button still seems to blink when the car is off. I have not seen the Clock icon at all.

Does this mean one of the fuse taps is wrong?
 
I am not sure, but to turn the camera off while it have transferred into parking mode you have to long press the power button.
You can always review your footage to see what the camera are doing when in accordance to the time stamp.
 
I think ( don't have HW kit )
If you have wired both + wires to ACC, the camera would just turn on and off with the key and so have no parking mode, and if you have wired both wires to two always on circuits then the camera will always record in regular drive mode and can only be turned off / on with the power button.
So if you look over your footage and have both regular recordings and time lapse, then i think the camera are properly installed.
I cant say how the camera behave in regard to LED's in the different modes as i don't have the HW kit.
 
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You can try to set the parking mode timer to just 5 minutes, this way you can see fast if the camera are working fine i would assume.
 
I think ( don't have HW kit )
If you have wired both + wires to ACC, the camera would just turn on and off with the key and so have no parking mode, and if you have wired both wires to two always on circuits then the camera will always record in regular drive mode and can only be turned off / on with the power button.
So if you look over your footage and have both regular recordings and time lapse, then i think the camera are properly installed.
I cant say how the camera behave in regard to LED's in the different modes as i don't have the HW kit.

Possible I have it set both to ACC. When ignition is on it starts up normal, but when I turn the key off it turns black but somehow the REC light keeps blinking...

Is it possible my ground is not good? I double checked the fuses and the fuel door opener is constant when the engine is off, and EGN IGN 1 is switched.

What does the parking mode timer do? I haven't messed with any of the settings
 
The parking mode timer, time for how long the parking mode are on, so far the longest time are 24 hours.
If the REC led are flashing i think that indicate it are recording.
The Icon ( clock ) you talk about and which i assume indicate if the timer are on, will probably only be visible during ordinary recording to indicate than then you do stop, parking mode should be on ( timer )
But try to set the parking mode timer to 5 minutes, after that the flashing red LED should go out indicated the camera are shut off.
Personally when i get the HW kit i would just use the timer set to 30 minutes as that will cover all my shopping, and at home in my apartment or at my friend house we bristle with CCTV equipment.
Maybe 1 - 2 times of they year i will use longer parking timer, but then i just change that in the camera menu
 
Aaa yeah thats right totally forgot about that one,,,,, yes change to 3 wire input power, thats probably the culprit.
 
at minimum you need to set the Power Input menu to 3 wire, default setting is 2 wire

Ok, will definitely check that setting. Side note, is there any easier way to adjust the settings on the camera like plugging into a USB outlet, its pretty awkward adjusting settings while the camera is connected to the car since I've already hidden the cable in the headliner and its super short.
 
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