Zenfox T3 Triple channel dash cams free test invitation, limited quantity

Could it be though that because I am using the Viofo Hardwiring kit where Red is Battery and Yellow is Acc, that the camera isn't being triggered by the ACC since it expects Red as Acc and Yellow as Battery?

Meaning the Viofo is powering off with the vehicle instead of entering parking mode.

I presume I'd have to get another hardwiring kit where Yellow is Battery and Red Acc to test the theory?
the colour of the input wire is unrelated to how it functions, they still use the same pins on the USB plug for power for the camera
 
I got my Zenfox and installed it. I used my DIY hard wiring, which powers together with the radar detector. However, sometimes I start the engine, and the dashcam won't power up. I have to unplug the power cable and plugin again in order to get it to start. Does anybody know what's going on? My radar detector runs no issues. I can confirm that the 12V to 5V step-down has enough Amp, 5V2A.15916476770128006.jpeg
 
Why is everyone mounting it to the left/right of the dotted area or elsewhere. I repeat, can't the T3 look over the rearview mirror if mounted next to the rearview mirror holder with only the front lens visible below the dotted area?

If not, the elongated neck design is pointless! It's sticking out like a sore thumb!
 
when I said it should work I was only referring to power requirements, no idea what method they are using for parking mode and if that would be compatible
May need to swap the red and yellow wires. Zenfox May use yellow wire as battery wire.
The HK3 parking mode is compatible, the wire colours are correct, red for power, yellow for ACC/parking.

The earlier HK3 will create very noticeable noise on the audio.

How reliable the HK3 power is with the extra load of this camera, I do not know, but if anyone is experiencing problems, they can check the cause by swapping to the Zenfox supplied power adaptor.

My test unit was just delivered and out of 8 power on/off tests with a new out of package U3 / V30 /A1 rated 128GB card, 5 resulted in fading out and all 3 camera recordings were corrupted. I left the power on for between 30 to 90 seconds in case it was an issue of insufficient time to charge the capacitor, but it didn't seem to make a difference.
Maybe 90 seconds is not enough if the capacitor starts off empty. Once it has filled, it will normally not need much charging on each startup. I think the charge rate is fairly slow, because with 3 channels most of the power from a typical charger is used by the camera, there is not much power left for charging capacitors! The capacitors will not run the camera during shutdown until they are full, a 30% charge will not run the camera even for a millisecond.
 
However, sometimes I start the engine, and the dashcam won't power up. I have to unplug the power cable and plugin again in order to get it to start. Does anybody know what's going on? My radar detector runs no issues. I can confirm that the 12V to 5V step-down has enough Amp, 5V2A.
It is possible that the power supply is inadequate, you can check by using the supplied one.

Also, if you power/depower the camera within a few seconds several times then there will not be enough charge in the capacitors, this can cause it to lock up, It can then take some time without power for the capacitors to discharge before it will restart. Alternatively you can press the reset button.

It should be OK in normal operation, but with a lot of plugging and unplugging it can get into trouble, same as most capacitor based dashcams.
 
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Why is everyone mounting it to the left/right of the dotted area or elsewhere. I repeat, can't the T3 look over the rearview mirror if mounted next to the rearview mirror holder with only the front lens visible below the dotted area?

If not, the elongated neck design is pointless! It's sticking out like a sore thumb!
Seems we have an odd collection of cars!

It definitely can go behind the mirror in many cars.

Mounting it to the passenger side seems to work OK, and as a taxicam it can be good for the passengers to see that a professional looking camera is there.

I do see this as a taxi-cam, and quite a good one. For non-taxi use I am hoping for some more consumer friendly designs from Viofo etc., but currently they can't manage 3 channels and Zenfox can :)
 
@HonestReview can I suggest that you start your testing by using the supplied power adapter and one of your current microSD cards, just to get a feel for the camera and how it works (or not).

Simply driving around for a few days with a standard setup might find a few bugs that need fixing. Take notes of the camera settings. Change one thing, like the resolution, and test again.

You don't have to try and test everything at once. There are far too many variables concerned. A vague report of 'it doesn't work' is no good to Zenfox. If you can narrow it down to the one thing that you changed, that is much more useful.
 
If not, the elongated neck design is pointless! It's sticking out like a sore thumb!

That was my very first thought on seeing a pic of this cam. It does seem tb be correctly designed for a behind-the-mirror mounting, and if it's thickness and the layout of any sensors the car maker put there allow, I think that is where most people will place it.

The only dashcam form-factor which can work well in every situation is one which uses only remote lens modules, and even those may leave an issue of where to mount the 'head unit'. It is good to have different form-factors to better suit one's needs.

Phil
 
the dashcam won't power up

That are often the camera being starved of power, i got the same from a mobius on a too long and too cheap USB cable, once i put 12 V in the back of my car, and so was aboe to use a regular length cable the problem was gone.
 
@Harsh if i mounted in the middle of the windscreen the cabin camera would film strait into the mirror stalk, so if you film over mirror you have to offset to either side.
In my car i have a 6CM gap over the mirror, which should be fine, in the car of zaq88999 his mirror seem to almost touch the headliner

I assume in his setup you cant even see the driver as he is blocked by the mirror
 
Couple issues here: - Your theory may indeed but correct.....

1.
I am definitely not ripping my hardwire kit apart to test it...
2. I am going to presume that the circuitry in the Hardwire Kit (Yellow to Yellow & Red to Red) is intended to be used as designed. And being I am not an electrician, nor willing to risk my car being the guinea pig...Someone else will have to chime in here and/or be willing to reverse wiring to see what happens.

Mean time, if anyone has a suggestion on another hardwire kit that uses Yellow as Battery and Red as ACC and has enough voltage, please do share.
Swapping fuse tap positions in the fuse box does not require an electrician, but since Nigel says wire configuration is the same, then it doesn't matter. Street Guardian uses yellow wire as the battery wire in their hardwire kit, but again, doesn't matter at this point.
 
The HK3 parking mode is compatible, the wire colours are correct, red for power, yellow for ACC/parking.

The earlier HK3 will create very noticeable noise on the audio.

How reliable the HK3 power is with the extra load of this camera, I do not know, but if anyone is experiencing problems, they can check the cause by swapping to the Zenfox supplied power adaptor.


Maybe 90 seconds is not enough if the capacitor starts off empty. Once it has filled, it will normally not need much charging on each startup. I think the charge rate is fairly slow, because with 3 channels most of the power from a typical charger is used by the camera, there is not much power left for charging capacitors! The capacitors will not run the camera during shutdown until they are full, a 30% charge will not run the camera even for a millisecond.

1. As stated, the Viofo Hardwire kit does power on the T3 camera. When I start engine, the T3 turns on with the vehicle.

2. Parking mode doesn't function with my Viofo Hardwire Kit. As soon as I cut the battery, instead of entering parking mode, the camera shuts off. The Hardwire kit is fine with the Viofo A129 Duo.

3. I will install camera and begin testing very soon. I have ordered a Sandisk High Endurance. I did have a Sandisk Ultra Plus in the camera just to get it booted up and running. Funny enough it worked fine with it, though I doubt that would be a longterm and reliable solution.

4. I will begin testing with cigarette / 12v socket.
 
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Swapping fuse tap positions in the fuse box does not require an electrician, but since Nigel says wire configuration is the same, then it doesn't matter. Street Guardian uses yellow wire as the battery wire in their hardwire kit, but again, doesn't matter at this point.

I think you mistunderstood. My setup is perfectly fine and I know how to hardwire a vehicle. What I meant was I wouldn't disassemble my hardwire kit and pai the red to yellow wire and yellow to red. Which is what you were suggesting or I understood you to be suggesting. And since I am not an electrician, my thought was this isn't a good idea.

But @jokiin and SawMaster seem to believe it doesn't matter which kit you use (Red ACC / Yellow Batter) or (Yellow ACC / Red Battery) as the usb plug is the same and either kit should work the same.
 
stop recording first, press the menu button to get into the menu, then press it again to get into the secondary menu. there is a selection called IR, you can turn off IR from there.

Thanks. I had gotten in the the primary menu, didn't see the secondary one. Will test this later. Appreciate feedback.
 
That was my very first thought on seeing a pic of this cam. It does seem tb be correctly designed for a behind-the-mirror mounting, and if it's thickness and the layout of any sensors the car maker put there allow, I think that is where most people will place it.

The only dashcam form-factor which can work well in every situation is one which uses only remote lens modules, and even those may leave an issue of where to mount the 'head unit'. It is good to have different form-factors to better suit one's needs.

Phil

And that setup isn't even possible on some vehicles like my Volvo S60. There is a plasic housing on my car surrounding the mirror which contains Lidar for City Safety.

I found the most idea mount point to be under the black plastic housing. I have yet to adhere the camera to my vehicle, but I held it there. At that mount point it caught the cabin along with the vehicle exterior out the front / passenger side windows.

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2. Parking mode doesn't function with my Viofo Hardwire Kit. As soon as I cut the battery, instead of entering parking mode, the camera shuts off. The Hardwire kit is fine with the Viofo A129 Duo.
I wonder if you have set the parking timer wrong? User Manual says you want it "On"...
 
I wanted to use the T3 filming my PC last night, that also worked just fine,,,,,,, for the 2 hours i set the timer to :rolleyes::LOL:

But i still got my recording as the PC screen go on / off all the time while the PC it turned off.
 
I wonder if you have set the parking timer wrong? User Manual says you want it "On"...

I can give this another try with it on and see if that changes anything. I find it weird though you would have to limit the length of time for parking mode to operate? But I'll be more than happy to try setting it to one of the timed intervals and report back later today.
 
I can give this another try with it on and see if that changes anything. I find it weird though you would have to limit the length of time for parking mode to operate? But I'll be more than happy to try setting it to one of the timed intervals and report back later today.
This will be true in the new VIOFO firmware when it’s released. All the new beta versions now have a timer.
 
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