Zenfox T3 Triple channel dash cams free test invitation, limited quantity

open what ? the T3

No no. I mentioned while the T3 was having its bugs resolved, I installed a Gecko Orbit 950 in another vehicle. Nigel pointed out the Gecko Orbit 950 has a 240mAH li-on battery but manual said super capacitor. So unit powers off with car. So a bit of off topic banter on how to determine which is accurate (battery or capacitor).
 
The T3 open very easy ( 4 screws as i recall ) and from the back half only the wire to the GPS antenna need to be unplugged and you have the T3 in 2 parts.
And as i recall if you want to ventilate it even more yourself there are plenty of places where you could make it look like a swiss cheese.
 
Aaaa okay.
Anyway i wouldn't start to drill the T3, clearly it have some issues with parking that are well documented by now, so no need getting more grief with that this side of a firmware update.
Cuz i am not all too sure it is heat related, or at least not that alone.
I assume my issues are just relating to the one A1 card i have are a kingston, so i hope going sandisk can fix that, otherwise i an screwed for now.
 
Aaaa okay.
Anyway i wouldn't start to drill the T3, clearly it have some issues with parking that are well documented by now, so no need getting more grief with that this side of a firmware update.
Cuz i am not all too sure it is heat related, or at least not that alone.
I assume my issues are just relating to the one A1 card i have are a kingston, so i hope going sandisk can fix that, otherwise i an screwed for now.

Zenfox has acknowledged our concerns and investigating them. So now we sit and wait to see what solutions may arise. In the interim, I was given another Dash Cam to try out, so I'll step back from the T3 and work on the other one a bit.

Once updates are posted (firmware, suggestions, etc), I'll follow those guidelines and resume on the T3 testing.

Yes, I think the Sandisk should be fine. A2 Extreme or High Endurance. I own both.
 
The T3 open very easy ( 4 screws as i recall ) and from the back half only the wire to the GPS antenna need to be unplugged and you have the T3 in 2 parts.
And as i recall if you want to ventilate it even more yourself there are plenty of places where you could make it look like a swiss cheese.
I opened the T3 the next day after I got it to see how well it was put together and took some pictures from it for future reference. I have noticed a few odd things referring to the heat sink assembly that I don't understand on the way it was mounted but there may be proven technical reasons for the way they choose to do things the way they are.
Also there is a reason the audible notifications are so dim. The speaker is too small, even though there is a cut out for a larger speaker next to it. Probably to cut costs for the pre-production/ test samples batch, which is ok as that is not a critical component but will be nice to have in retail units.
I think there is some extra room for a slightly larger heat dissipation block.
There is not shielding between the heat sink and the GPS module and I'm concerned it may be picking up interference from the CPU plus all the heat as it is seating just on top of it with just few millimeter clearance.
One thing I like they did is the placement of the RTC battery away from the heat and not soldered to the main board which will result in a longer life span and very easy to replace when the time comes.
 
Also there is a reason the audible notifications are so dim. The speaker is too small, even though there is a cut out for a larger speaker next to it. Probably to cut costs for the pre-production/ test samples batch, which is ok as that is not a critical component but will be nice to have in retail units.
It is really just a beeper, the only audio other than beeps is the startup and shutdown sounds, so large size is not important as long as it does OK at the frequency of the beep. For me the startup and shutdown sounds are at a nice level, I can hear them OK but they are not annoying/distracting. I haven't heard many beeps except for the button presses, and those seem loud enough. Yes, it is not loud, but my car is not quiet, certainly not compared to a typical Chinese car. Am I missing something? Maybe you have a car sensor housing blocking the sound path from the speaker to your ears?

I think there is some extra room for a slightly larger heat dissipation block.
Seems to cover the whole circuit board except for where there are connectors, note that it extends under the supercaps which is not immediately obvious, they are stuck on top of it. Also, the heatsink/spreader appears to be aluminium, the PCB will conduct heat better at further distance from the processor since it will have a copper ground plane so good to let some air get to that.

There is not shielding between the heat sink and the GPS module and I'm concerned it may be picking up interference from the CPU plus all the heat as it is seating just on top of it with just few millimeter clearance.
The heat sink itself should act as a shield, and should be grounded, and even if not, it is sitting on top of of an emi shield.

One of the advantages of the tall design is that there should be some convection over the heatsink fins which hopefully stops the GPS getting hot. They have even put the fins running vertically to help! Many dashcams, especially the tube shaped ones can't use convection, tall chimneys are always far more effective than horizontal ones!

One thing I like they did is the placement of the RTC battery away from the heat and not soldered to the main board which will result in a longer life span and very easy to replace when the time comes.
Yes, that is good design.

I was wondering why the supercaps didn't go down there too, but there isn't room once you put the image sensor back on. It is good though that both supercaps are heated by the heatsink instead of only one, should stop them going out of balance as they age, first camera I've seen do that.
 
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Just finished reviewing the footage from today's driving (about 45 min worth of drive time) and camera quit recording all together for about 8 minutes prior arriving home and once again, only one clip for each cam corrupted. however, this time the corrupted clip didn't occurred at the time of shutting down the vehicle. According to the time stamp it occurred as soon the camera stopped recording earlier but no beeping warnings whatsoever. I didn't notice any other issues in what was recorded. GPS, date and time seemed spot on this time but don't know if 90F temperature played a role in to this, probably not, since the air con was running nice and cool the whole time. Just a sudden stop recording. Maybe an SD card issue, but why no beep warnings when this occurs?
 
warnings are not a default action, needs to coded to do that
Hopefully they consider adding those audible warnings in the next fw update. It is very important to know when it stops recording for whatever reason.
 
Hopefully they consider adding those audible warnings in the next fw update. It is very important to know when it stops recording for whatever reason.

Audible warnings would be fantastic. I only started noticing the camera overheating by checking it when I got back into car. There was no notification that the other two cameras cut out. And with the screen saver on, you wouldn't necessarily notice the issue either.

Helpful for other errors, too
 
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Seems to cover the whole circuit board except for where there are connectors, note that it extends under the supercaps which is not immediately obvious, they are stuck on top of it. Also, the heatsink/spreader appears to be aluminium, the PCB will conduct heat better at further distance from the processor since it will have a copper ground plane so good to let some air get to that.

When you say copper ground plate, is the heatsink aluminum with the plate touching CPU copper or the back plate copper? I think fanless cooling is only possible solution for dash cameras. So using a good fin and spreader design is about the only way to go.
 
Audible warnings would be fantastic. I only started noticing the camera overheating by checking it when I got back into car. There was no notification that the other two cameras cut out. And with the screen saver on, you wouldn't necessarily notice the issue either.

Helpful for other errors, too
It is not only unsafe to keep an eye to the screen while driving but also in many cases almost imposible to see visual notification while the camera is installed in the passenger side (for example mine) where the rear view mirror gets in the way of drivers line of sight.
 
It is not only unsafe to keep an eye to the screen while driving but also in many cases almost imposible to see visual notification while the camera is installed in the passenger side (for example mine) where the rear view mirror gets in the way of drivers line of sight.
leaving the screen on while driving will contribute to the heat problems also
 
It is not only unsafe to keep an eye to the screen while driving but also in many cases almost imposible to see visual notification while the camera is installed in the passenger side (for example mine) where the rear view mirror gets in the way of drivers line of sight.

Mine sits side by side to the Viofo. I can reach them and can hit the button to turn on screen (when off from 3 minute screensaver), but that's unnecessary. I mainly began to notice overheating when I got back to my car and checked screen before driving away. Rear and Interior cams were missing. A auditory beep would let us know without taking eyes off road or having to fidget with camera. Great suggestion.
 
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leaving the screen on while driving will contribute to the heat problems also

Yep. Mine is on 3 minute screensaver. No need to have it on while driving or being distracted. Let alone, generate more heat.
 
Mine sites side by side to the Viofo. I can reach them and can hit the button to turn on screen (when off from 3 minute screensaver), but that's unnecessary. I mainly began to notice overheating when I got back to my car and checked screen before driving away. Rear and Interior cams were missing. A auditory beep would let us know without taking eyes off road or having to fidget with camera. Great suggestion.
In some ways I wish I had installed mine side by side with the Viofo but that meant removing and repositioning the Viofo, and as you already know how much fun it is removing those adhesive pads. At the moment didn't want to deal with that. Maybe a later on project...
 
In some ways I wish I had installed mine side by side with the Viofo but that meant removing and repositioning the Viofo, and as you already know how much fun it is removing those adhesive pads. At the moment didn't want to deal with that. Maybe a later on project...

Not as bad to remove adhesive pads if they don't sit on a tinted window. I had to do it methodically or risk damaging the tint!

On another note, that Gecko Orbit 950 I received, it has a MAJOR design flaw. The 3M pads are larger than the defrost lines. It would have never been acceptable in my Volvo. No way I'd risk damaging windshield. My other car is older and the very top had no lines. Only place it'd sit.

Those 3M adhesives are no joke. They aren't meant to ever come off.
 
Not as bad to remove adhesive pads if they don't sit on a tinted window. I had to do it methodically or risk damaging the tint!
As long as you are not lifting the edge of the tint and allowing air to get in under the edge, then it is held on to the glass by suction, so the amount of force you can apply when pulling the sticky pad off the tint is 1 atmosphere x the surface area of the pad. For the A129 that is 44 pounds of force before the tint will pull away from the glass. You do not have to be as careful as you are suggesting, just don't use any sharp tools that might puncture the surface, but that is also true without the tint since sharp tools can damage the glass.
The 3M pads are larger than the defrost lines. It would have never been acceptable in my Volvo.
You can use a sharp knife to cut a strip out of the pad to fit over the defrost line, there is more than enough stick to hold the camera on. The size of the pad is chosen for image stability, not for fear of it falling off, so cut the strip out of the centre, not off the edge.
 
It is always a challenge for high-end chipset working in parking recording mode under direct sunshine, better to protect the device itself under extreme conditions.
Other cameras like Thinkware U1000, also has a similar solution, like downgrading to 2K while the WiFi-enabled, and turn off the device while the built-in sensor detected extreme temperature.
 
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