A229 Pro Test & Review PP

Or slightly simpler: Pro records 2x the detail on the front view.
Trying to start an endless discussion are you? Let's keep it at it has the theoretical ability to capture 2x the detail, in practice this may be reduced by a myriad of limiting factors. Obviously I am biased having ordered the plus ;)
 
I’m pleased to report the A229 Pro does NOT have the super secret H.265 HEVC Codec by long pressing the MIC button, (I tried all buttons).
The only Codec available is H.264.
This means recorded footage will be accessible by EVERY computer / device.
If you didn’t know I have a strong aversion to H.265 for personal reasons. lol
@Nigel @kamkar @Agie
Can someone email, PM, or post a link to an AV1 raw original video clip from a dash cam?
I want to check if my “computer” will play it. lol
Email: BudgetPantherPlatform@gmail.com
 
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Ohh, did you mean AV one - AV1?
 
I'm also looking into this one here , since it's a 5m one that appears to do power and data, so might be useful if a cable ****s itself and need something for a rear camera: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...lgo_pvid=e67141a7-5513-428a-83d8-e045755afbe6

28/30AWG gauge apparently.

Interesting. I've actually got a couple of usb-c to usb-c cables recently, due to the new iPhone's being usb-c. I might try one of them when my the new cam arrives. obviously I'll try the official cable first, but I agree it would be handy to have a spare on hand if it were needed
 
Oops, sorry about that. Yes AV1.
@Nigel @kamkar @Agie
Can someone email, PM, or post a link to an AV1 raw original video clip from a dash cam?
I want to check if my “computer” will play it. lol
Email: BudgetPantherPlatform@gmail.com
OK, nobody is going to be able to give you a raw original dashcam video clip, because no dashcams support AV1 yet, but I cam give you an AV1 file containing high quality dashcam video, if you wait a while for my computer to struggle through a conversion...
 
Interesting. I've actually got a couple of usb-c to usb-c cables recently, due to the new iPhone's being usb-c. I might try one of them when my the new cam arrives. obviously I'll try the official cable first, but I agree it would be handy to have a spare on hand if it were needed
That's it, I've been looking lately and to be honest it's hard to find something longer than 3 metres online or locally in brick and mortar stores that will handle power or power&data. The only downside with the one I posted seems to be it's right-angled at one end.

But when you need a spare or need one cos the original factory one with a dash cam has crapped itself, then we just need to latch onto whatever we can get lol
 
no dashcams support AV1 yet, but I cam give you an AV1 file containing high quality dashcam video, if you wait a while for my computer to struggle through a conversion...
This is already starting to sound like a "compatibility" nightmare.
The same reason I dislike H.265.
Yes, please send me any kind of AV1 file just to see if I can play it.
 
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@Agie @markus
My interest for a short 1 meter Type-C to Type-C cable is purely to mount the REAR camera on the same window as the front camera without having to coil up the original 6M cable in the headliner.
Just for the record Viofo has indicated the rear camera cable is proprietary, and aftermarket cables may not function properly.
I was informed they will most likely be offering the rear camera cable in different lengths, just like they do with other models.
The cheapest cable I can find that might work is $15.
But that's $10 more than I'm willing to spend. lol
 
Believe me I tried, (did not work).
I'm just trying to confirm & verify before I start my "Death to AV1 for Dash Cams" campaign. lol
I like my H.265 for movies I watch at home so be careful with your motives for AV1 *narrows eyes at you* LOL
 
@Agie @markus
My interest for a short 1 meter Type-C to Type-C cable is purely to mount the REAR camera on the same window as the front camera without having to coil up the original 6M cable in the headliner.
Just for the record Viofo has indicated the rear camera cable is proprietary, and aftermarket cables may not function properly.
I was informed they will most likely be offering the rear camera cable in different lengths, just like they do with other models.
The cheapest cable I can find that might work is $15.
But that's $10 more than I'm willing to spend. lol
Of course of course, only way you'll find out if it's proprietary is to check it I guess. That's exactly it it's a ripoff if you buy locally if that's what you're doing.

Imagine my displeasure when I had to go into a big chain electronics store here in Australia (JB Hi-fi) and buy that 3m cable for $35 AUD, when I could have easily bought it for $10-15AUD off AliExpress. And in a near-dead store, I was left waiting while the store attendants just stood around.

This is why I absolutely hate buying locally and buy 99% of my stuff online. My mate sticks by the book buying locally for warranty purposes, so I like to tease him everytime I make a purchase online by referring it to "#F***Local" while he says "#BuyLocal" LoL
 
Preliminary Power Consumption
Keep in mind these figures may change with firmware updates.
Q: Why is power consumption important?
A: Usually the more power a dash cam uses the more heat it will generate.
And it will indicate how long it will operate in a parking mode.

Well no wonder the A229 Pro runs 28℉ (16℃) degrees hotter than the A229 Plus in 3-CH configuration.
I measured the power consumption of the A229 Pro & A229 Plus consecutively, using identical settings, and the same Hardwire Kit.
I remember reading different SD Cards can affect power consumption & operating temperature so I used the same Viofo brand 512GB SD Card.
A229 Pro: 4K + 2K + 1080p Firmware V1.0 0926
A229 Plus: 2K + 2K + 1080p Firmware V1.0 0922
Maximum Bitrate
HDR On
IR LED’s Off
Wi-Fi Off
LCD Screen Off

Normal Recording Mode
631mA @ 12.60V = 7.95 Watts (A229 Pro)
489mA @ 12.60V = 6.16 Watts (A229 Plus)

Low Bitrate Parking Mode
496mA @ 12.60V = 6.25 Watts (A229 Pro)
453mA @ 12.60V = 5.71 Watts (A229 Plus)

Two things stand out at me.
1.) In Normal Recording Mode the A229 Pro uses considerably more power than the A229 Plus.
2.) The A229 Plus Low Bitrate Parking Mode is no where near efficient as the A229 Pro.

Rat's Nest .jpg
A229 Pro 166℉ (74℃) .jpg A229 Plus 138℉ (58℃) .jpg
 

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LOW LIGHT COMPARISON
I would like to remind everyone these silly experiments I do in my garage are NOT the final judge of image quality.
I perform these tests for three reasons.
1.) To satisfy my selfish curiosity how different dash cams compare to each other with controlled lighting conditions.
Since 2019 I’ve uploaded the test footage of every dash cam I’ve ever tested to my second YouTube Channel, and organized them into Playlists so I can easily compare new models with old, and image quality firmware updates.
2.) Before I install a new dash cam in my car to gather “driving” test footage I perform basic tests like checking focus, low light sensitivity, HDR performance, audio test, etc.
3.) It’s much quicker, easier, and cheaper than driving around burning gas in my car that gets 9 MPG on city streets.
I earn zero dollars testing dash cams.
My YouTube Channel is not monetized.
I am not an Amazon Associate.
I am not an Affiliate for any retailer, or manufacturer.
I actually lose money on this hobby, especially buying test equipment.
After a dash cam passes my preliminary “garage” testing, only then will I install it in my car.
If a dash cam can’t make it past my garage gauntlet because image quality is just plain bad, or other critical hardware / software flaws I will not waste my gas, and I send it back to the manufacturer.
DNFers (did not finish) include;
BlackVue DR970X 2-CH
BlackVue DR900X Plus 2-CH
Thinkware U3000 1-CH
FineVu GX 1000 2-CH
Vantrue E1 1-CH
Vantrue S1 Pro 2-CH (pending)

On with the games.
For this low light sensitivity test I place the camera test rig on top of my car 5ft high in the center of my 20ft x 20ft two car garage.
I have six 4ft LED shop lights mounted on the 8ft ceiling, (5000 lumen / 5000K color temp).
I have a Streamlight Stinger LED flashlight hanging from the ceiling with a diffuser 5ft behind the test rig in an attempt to evenly distribute the beam pattern.
The flashlight has 3 power modes HIGH/MED/LOW.
I use the LOW setting rated at 100 lumen for this test.
The test starts with both light sources illuminated.
Then I turn off all 6 shop lights leaving the flashlight as the only source of light.
This simulates extremely poor lighting conditions, and acts as a “stress test” to see how the cameras react.

Flashlight .jpg

Cameras on the rig;
A229 Pro 3-CH ..(IMX678) + (IMX675) + (IMX307)
A229 Plus 3-CH (IMX675) + (IMX675) + (IMX307)
A139 Pro 1-CH ..(IMX678)
A119 Mini 2 ……(IMX675)

Camera Settings;
Bitrate: …..Maximum
HDR: ……On
IR LEDs: ..Off
CPL Filter: Off

Camera Firmware;
A229 Pro Front: ...V1.0 0925
A229 Pro Rear: …V1.0 0901
A229 Plus Front: ..V1.0 0922
A229 Plus Rear: ..V1.0 0901
A139 Pro: ………..V1.1 0629
A119 Mini 2: ……..V1.0 0912

After watching the recorded footage, and comparing screenshots side by side I’ve noticed five things.
1.) The A229 Pro Front camera has been greatly improved over the A139 Pro Front camera.
2.) The A229 Plus Front camera appears to have better light sensitivity, and a brighter exposure than the A229 Pro Front Camera.
However, you will see in the next post, this brighter exposure is detrimental to HDR performance, and objects illuminated under direct lighting will become overexposed, and illegible.
3.) The A229 Pro Front camera is no match for the A119 Mini 2, in terms of light sensitivity, and clarity.
Will the A119 Mini 2 maintain its supremacy over the A229 Pro Front camera in the next HDR test?
4.) The Rear & Interior cameras of the A229 Pro & A229 Plus have identical image quality.
However, you may notice the one of the Rear cameras has a slightly soft focus.
Can you spot it?
5.) The “lowly” STARVIS 1 (IMX307) image sensor of the A229 Pro & A229 Plus pales in comparison with the newer STARVIS 2’s.
But, stay tuned for the next HDR Test, and I will show you something interesting.

1.) A229 Pro Front - Low Light .png
2.) A139 Pro - Low Light Test .png
3.) A229 Plus Front - Low Light Test .png
4.) A119 Mini 2 - Low Light Test .png
5.) A229 Pro Rear - Low Light.png
6.) A229 Plus Rear - Low Light Test .png
7.) A229 Pro Interior - Low Light.png
8.) A229 Plus Interior - Low Light Test .png

Here is the test footage I took the screenshots from.
If you notice the downward rolling bars in the video, that is my LED shop lights not playing well with my city’s electrical grid.
During peak usage hours I get “60Hz hum bars”.


Tune in next time, same Bat-Time same Bat-Channel.
 
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LOW LIGHT SENSITIVITY TEST
I would like to remind everyone these silly experiments I do in my garage are NOT the final judge of image quality.
I perform these tests for three reasons.
1.) To satisfy my selfish curiosity how different dash cams compare to each other with controlled lighting conditions.
Since 2019 I’ve uploaded the test footage of every dash cam I’ve ever tested to my second YouTube Channel, and organized them into Playlists so I can easily compare new models with old, and image quality firmware updates.
2.) Before I install a new dash cam in my car to gather “driving” test footage I perform basic tests like checking focus, low light sensitivity, HDR performance, audio test, etc.
3.) It’s much quicker, easier, and cheaper than driving around burning gas in my car that gets 9 MPG on city streets.
I earn zero dollars testing dash cams.
My YouTube Channel is not monetized.
I am not an Amazon Associate.
I am not an Affiliate for any retailer, or manufacturer.
I actually lose money on this hobby, especially buying test equipment.
After a dash cam passes my preliminary “garage” testing, only then will I install it in my car.
If a dash cam can’t make it past my garage gauntlet because image quality is just plain bad, or other critical hardware / software flaws I will not waste my gas, and I send it back to the manufacturer.
DNFers (did not finish) include;
BlackVue DR970X 2-CH
BlackVue DR900X Plus 2-CH
Thinkware U3000 1-CH
FineVu GX 1000 2-CH
Vantrue E1 1-CH
Vantrue S1 Pro 2-CH (pending)

On with the games.
For this low light sensitivity test I place the camera test rig on top of my car 5ft high in the center of my 20ft x 20ft two car garage.
I have six 4ft LED shop lights mounted on the 8ft ceiling, (5000 lumen / 5000K color temp).
I have a Streamlight Stinger LED flashlight hanging from the ceiling with a diffuser 5ft behind the test rig in an attempt to evenly distribute the beam pattern.
The flashlight has 3 power modes HIGH/MED/LOW.
I use the LOW setting rated at 100 lumen for this test.
The test starts with both light sources illuminated.
Then I turn off all 6 shop lights leaving the flashlight as the only source of light.
This simulates extremely poor lighting conditions, and acts as a “stress test” to see how the cameras react.

View attachment 68014

Cameras on the rig;
A229 Pro 3-CH ..(IMX678) + (IMX675) + (IMX307)
A229 Plus 3-CH (IMX675) + (IMX675) + (IMX307)
A139 Pro 1-CH ..(IMX678)
A119 Mini 2 ……(IMX675)

Camera Settings;
Bitrate: …..Maximum
HDR: ……On
IR LEDs: ..Off
CPL Filter: Off

Camera Firmware;
A229 Pro Front: ...V1.0 0925
A229 Pro Rear: …V1.0 0901
A229 Plus Front: ..V1.0 0922
A229 Plus Rear: ..V1.0 0901
A139 Pro: ………..V1.1 0629
A119 Mini 2: ……..V1.0 0912

After watching the recorded footage, and comparing screenshots side by side I’ve noticed five things.
1.) The A229 Pro Front camera has been greatly improved over the A139 Pro Front camera.
2.) The A229 Plus Front camera appears to have better light sensitivity, and a brighter exposure than the A229 Pro Front Camera.
However, you will see in the next post, this brighter exposure is detrimental to HDR performance, and objects illuminated under direct lighting will become overexposed, and illegible.
3.) The A229 Pro Front camera is no match for the A119 Mini 2, in terms of light sensitivity, and clarity.
Will the A119 Mini 2 maintain its supremacy over the A229 Pro Front camera in the next HDR test?
4.) The Rear & Interior cameras of the A229 Pro & A229 Plus have identical image quality.
However, you may notice the one of the Rear cameras has a slightly soft focus.
Can you spot it?
5.) The “lowly” STARVIS 1 (IMX307) image sensor of the A229 Pro & A229 Plus pales in comparison with the newer STARVIS 2’s.
But, stay tuned for the next HDR Test, and I will show you something interesting.

View attachment 68015
View attachment 68016
View attachment 68017
View attachment 68018
View attachment 68019
View attachment 68020
View attachment 68021
View attachment 68022

Here is the test footage I took the screenshots from.
If you notice the downward rolling bars in the video, that is my LED shop lights not playing well with my city’s electrical grid.
During peak usage hours I get “60Hz hum bars”.


Tune in next time, same Bat-Time same Bat-Channel.
Absolutely love your setup, a dash cam nerd's delight
 
...
For this low light sensitivity test I place the camera test rig on top of my car 5ft high in the center of my 20ft x 20ft two car garage.
I have six 4ft LED shop lights mounted on the 8ft ceiling, (5000 lumen / 5000K color temp).
I have a Streamlight Stinger LED flashlight hanging from the ceiling with a diffuser 5ft behind the test rig in an attempt to evenly distribute the beam pattern.
The flashlight has 3 power modes HIGH/MED/LOW.
I use the LOW setting rated at 100 lumen for this test.
The test starts with both light sources illuminated.
Then I turn off all 6 shop lights leaving the flashlight as the only source of light.
This simulates extremely poor lighting conditions, and acts as a “stress test” to see how the cameras react....
Kudos on the structured, repeatable and reasonably objective methodology. :woot: :woot:
 
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