A129 3-wire kit

I am not saying that you inverted the red with yelllow cable. But the yellow and red cable connected both the constant power circuits.

In that way the hardwire kit will not cut the power to the cam and the parking mode will work by gps instead ACC signal
I assume the low voltage cut-off would still work though?
 
I assume the low voltage cut-off would still work though?

With my hardware kit, the cam is always powered on because is connected with red and yellow cable to constant power circuit.

If i connect the yellow cable to ACC fuse on another fuse that only has power with engine running, the cam turns off after some seconds...
 
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With my hardware kit, the cam is always powered on because is connected with red and yellow cable to constant power circuit.

If i connect the yellow cable to ACC fuse on another fuse that only has power with engine running, the cam turns off after some seconds...
The ACC wire is just a trigger wire. Nigel means that even if the ACC wire (yellow wire) was connected to a constant power, the low voltage cut off on the red BATT wire should still shut down the camera when the voltage drops below the cut off point.
 
The ACC wire is just a trigger wire. Nigel means that even if the ACC wire (yellow wire) was connected to a constant power, the low voltage cut off on the red BATT wire should still shut down the camera when the voltage drops below the cut off point.

I'll set the cutoff to 12.4 and i'll test again.

I bought my hardwire kit on BangGood. Can it be fake?
 
I have the same issue this week which is really annoying.

I have the 3 wire kit set at 12.4v cut off. I have monitored my voltage direct to the fuse taps into a multimeter high-low memory function and and it goes from 12.6, and over a course of a few hours to 12.23v. Yet it doesnt cut off!
I have a phone in the car recording the dash cam power lights.

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I literally sat in the car testing for a constant fuse and a suitable ACC fuse. The camera is 100% wired correctly as the display shows a Car+Camera icon when in drive mode. And after ACC turns off (lock the car with me in it) I can see it go into Park mode when there is a "P"+Camera icon. Files on the card show the full size mp4 files vs low bit rate files too.

I am not sure if its a tolerance thing but +_ 0.2 volts is huge as thats approx 20% battery charge difference.



I did but I'm more concerned on my testing results rather than finding the root cause of why it drained. The latter is just secondary. What's important to me now is I can see for myself that the cutoff works with the proper testing procedure and expectations.

So why 12.2V and not 12.4V?
 
I've tested with 12.4v with red and yellow cable connected to the circuit that has constant power and the it never cuts power to the dashcam.
 
I am not saying that you inverted the red with yelllow cable. But the yellow and red cable connected both the constant power circuits.

In that way the hardwire kit will not cut the power to the cam and the parking mode will work by gps instead ACC signal
I see. I can also tell you that this is not the case for me as parking mode works perfectly like how pegasusx describes his observation.
I have the same issue this week which is really annoying.

I have the 3 wire kit set at 12.4v cut off. I have monitored my voltage direct to the fuse taps into a multimeter high-low memory function and and it goes from 12.6, and over a course of a few hours to 12.23v. Yet it doesnt cut off!
I have a phone in the car recording the dash cam power lights.

View attachment 46207


I literally sat in the car testing for a constant fuse and a suitable ACC fuse. The camera is 100% wired correctly as the display shows a Car+Camera icon when in drive mode. And after ACC turns off (lock the car with me in it) I can see it go into Park mode when there is a "P"+Camera icon. Files on the card show the full size mp4 files vs low bit rate files too.

I am not sure if its a tolerance thing but +_ 0.2 volts is huge as thats approx 20% battery charge difference.
This is exactly what I'm observing! Earlier this morning, I checked the fuse tap's voltage again and it was sitting at 12.16V with the camera recording endlessly.

Bill from Viofo is currently asking their support team about this. I will update this thread if I hear anything from them but would you do us all a favor and email him as well at bill@viofo.com ? Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
I've tested with 12.4v with red and yellow cable connected to the circuit that has constant power and the it never cuts power to the dashcam.
To confirm, your powering the camera directly, not through the mount and your running firmware V1.5 correct?
 
It's connected through the mount because if i connect directly on the dashcam i'm afraid that the cam will never enter in parking mode...

I'm on fimware V1.5

But it make any diference in terms of cutting power?

My suggestion to VIofo's is to create one option for auto shut down (1h, 2h, until 24h).
Thats could resolve some battery drain problems.
 
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It's connected through the mount because if i connect directly on the dashcam i'm afraid that the cam will never enter in parking mode...

I'm on fimware V1.5

But it make any diference in terms of cutting power?

My suggestion to VIofo's is to create one option for auto shut down (1h, 2h, until 24h).
Thats could resolve some battery drain problems.
Not sure about the cutoff, but you need to have the power connected properly if you expect things to work as they should. Power needs to be connected directly to the camera for the parking mode to work with the 3-wire kit. Start there and see how things work. If your camera does not enter parking mode immediately when the engine is shut off (with power connected directly to camera), then it would suggest you do not have the wires connected properly.
 
Yes i know. But as i said thats was an hack to prevent the hardwire kit to cuts the power
 
It's connected through the mount because if i connect directly on the dashcam i'm afraid that the cam will never enter in parking mode...

I'm on fimware V1.5

But it make any diference in terms of cutting power?

My suggestion to VIofo's is to create one option for auto shut down (1h, 2h, until 24h).
Thats could resolve some battery drain problems.
I'm still confused about your whole setup.

1. Are you using the official Viofo 3 hardwire kit?
2. Why would directly connecting to the camera make it never enter parking mode when that is the correct way of doing it? It will never enter parking mode when connected to the mount.

It seems that your observations are completely reverse of how the hardwire kit should work.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
Initially, I connected everything correctly:
red cable on fuse with constant power
yellow cable on fuse with power when engine running
usb cable connected to dashcam

With this setup everthing work fine except when for some reason if i need to lock/unlock the doors the cam shuts off after some seconds.

The cut off was at 11.8v but with 2 different multimeters it had 12.2 at the fuse and even then the camera was off

So i tried this hack...

Now the cam nevers stop recording so my conclusion is when you connect red and yellow cable to circuit that has constant power the cutoff dont work.
 
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Can someone please indicate the power consumption (both cameras working) for normal operation mode & parking mode?
it would help a lot!
 
Can someone please indicate the power consumption (both cameras working) for normal operation mode & parking mode?
it would help a lot!
For parking mode (low bitrate) power consumption is 6Ah@12V per 24 hours or 250mA@12V. Data for Viofo A129 Duo GPS.
 
For parking mode (low bitrate) power consumption is 6Ah@12V per 24 hours or 250mA@12V. Data for Viofo A129 Duo GPS.
Thanks a lot for the quick response!
what is the data for normal operation? it is not reasonable that it would be the same...
 
Thanks a lot for the quick response!
what is the data for normal operation? it is not reasonable that it would be the same...
Data for normal mode are very simmilar. Please find below.
Viofo A129 DUO
GPS + LCD ON - WiFi OFF= 606mA@5V
GPS + LCD OFF - WiFi 0FF = 581mA@5V

LCD ON = 584mA@5V(WiFi OFF, no GPS)
LCD ON = 644mA@5V (WiFi ON, no GPS)

Above figures were measured on camera power input. In my previous post figures were for overall power consumption, including hardwire kit and power loses on cables.
 
Data for normal mode are very simmilar. Please find below.
Viofo A129 DUO
GPS + LCD ON - WiFi OFF= 606mA@5V
GPS + LCD OFF - WiFi 0FF = 581mA@5V

LCD ON = 584mA@5V(WiFi OFF, no GPS)
LCD ON = 644mA@5V (WiFi ON, no GPS)

Above figures were measured on camera power input. In my previous post figures were for overall power consumption, including hardwire kit and power loses on cables.
Thank you very much my friend!
 
Apologies for dragging up an old topic in this thread regarding using a physical switch to control parking mode, but would the following work?
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On(I)/Off(O)/On(II) rocker switch.
In position (O), nothing should be happening.
In position (I), the camera is only powered when the ignition is on. I.e. Parking Mode is disabled.
In position (II), the camera receives a permanent 12V and our ACC 12V is now activating the sensor wire for the HK3.

Would this alleviate the issues others have experienced with their SPDT set-ups, with regards to having the Cam ACC wire permanently energised?
 
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Initially, I connected everything correctly:
red cable on fuse with constant power
yellow cable on fuse with power when engine running
usb cable connected to dashcam

The cut off was at 11.8v but with 2 different multimeters it had 12.2 at the fuse and even then the camera was off

So i tried this hack...

Now the cam nevers stop recording so my conclusion is when you connect red and yellow cable to circuit that has constant power the cutoff dont work.

Check that you have the firmware 1.5 and you have Parking mode on to either low frame rate or low bit rate option in the menu.

If you have the both above then I would say that the 3 wire kit has a fault. Or a HUGE gap in the voltage detection. i.e. battery is 12.2 and cutoff at 11.8v. The gap is +-0.4v

Try this. Make sure you have FW1.5 / Parking mode on say Low bit rate / Disconnect the ACC yellow wire and leave the RED wire to Constant BATT.
Start the car. The alternator should give it 14v. The dash cam will think its in Park mode. If this works then Test 11.8 12.0 12.2 12.4 etc.. the HW kit has a huge gap.
 
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