G1W Novatek 96650 WDR F1.6 H.264 MOV 15Mbps GPS Dash Cam DVR

I now read in the manual that the G1W uses 500mA (0.5A) . So you are safe.
 
Yeah, but 2.1A is much more than 0.5A, Not danger to broken some parts due to high amperage?
 
You have to read about how the electric things work. It's hard for med to explain in english. I can't the English terminology. A device that use the power determins how much it need. The power supply only deliver the Power it is asked for. So that means that the power supply only need to be able to deliver the current (A) that the device need. The power supply can never deliver more current (A) than what the device asks for & of cource not more than what it is specified for.

So you can without any danger use a Power supply that can deliver a maximum of 2.1A for a device that only uses 0.5A. But you can not do vice versa, use a power supply that delivers 0.5A together with a device that need 2.1A. Then the PS either will be overloaded, shutoff or explode like in the movies:) .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
U=I*R
P=U*I

U=Volt, I=Ampere, R=Resistance, P=
 
correct, higher amperage is ok, a bigger problem comes from products that claim to be higher but actually deliver less which is a common problem
 
On page one in the video at 1min 6sec I just wondered if the numbers counting down at the traffic lights indicated the seconds left before the lights changed red again. If so thats very driver friendly it would be nice to see other countries adopting the same system. Of course this might mean a drop in revenue with borderline red light tickets, I wont be holding my breath. Ipol ;)
 
On page one in the video at 1min 6sec I just wondered if the numbers counting down at the traffic lights indicated the seconds left before the lights changed red again. If so thats very driver friendly it would be nice to see other countries adopting the same system. Of course this might mean a drop in revenue with borderline red light tickets, I wont be holding my breath. Ipol ;)

that's quite common in China, counts down each light regardless of colour, saves frustration and saves people taking risks when approaching lights as it's easy to know if you're going to make it or not, something I like
 
@ jokiin thanks for the swift response yes its a nice touch more to do with road safety than the usual mentality of hitting the motorists pockets. Ipol :D
 
@ jokiin thanks for the swift response yes its a nice touch more to do with road safety than the usual mentality of hitting the motorists pockets. Ipol :D

traffic in China can be chaotic at the best of times and the traffic light countdown I'm sure has helped a lot, it's a great system that I'd like to see adopted elsewhere, simple idea really but very effective
 
You have to read about how the electric things work. It's hard for med to explain in english. I can't the English terminology. A device that use the power determins how much it need. The power supply only deliver the Power it is asked for. So that means that the power supply only need to be able to deliver the current (A) that the device need. The power supply can never deliver more current (A) than what the device asks for & of cource not more than what it is specified for.

So you can without any danger use a Power supply that can deliver a maximum of 2.1A for a device that only uses 0.5A. But you can not do vice versa, use a power supply that delivers 0.5A together with a device that need 2.1A. Then the PS either will be overloaded, shutoff or explode like in the movies:) .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
U=I*R
P=U*I

U=Volt, I=Ampere, R=Resistance, P=


All Clear, 2,1A is more than enough for G1W and mobile. phone charging in same time, Thanks again for clarification, it's only important to NOT use charger with less power output than the device use. ;)
 
I recently bought a G1WH from one of the vendors listed on the page for the G1W.
I had a DVR027 before this, worked great.
The original cable for the G1WH was a bit short for my needs and interfered with the FM on my radio, so i switched it with a known working one.
It works great.. sometimes. I have used it about 10 days now, and 2-3 times it has randomly shut off while recording without making the chime.
Today it happened. I drove 10 minutes, shut my car off. It worked good then. Started my car, drove 7 minutes and the camera shut off without making a noise. 15 minutes later, i reached my destination and shut my car off. It chimed as if it were on, but the screen did not light up. It recorded nothing for those 15 minutes, as if i had shut my car off.
Does anyone have any idea why? Could it be the SD card? The card is a 16Gb class 10, i have a 32Gb class 10 on the way. Not sure on the brand of the 16Gb, think Sandisk
Ive already had a few near misses get missed due to the issue, id hate to have to throw away this camera and go back to my DVR027
 
Check your memory card, if it glitches and recording stops it will power off a few minutes later

This model can be a bit fussy with memory cards as to which models it works with
 
Check your memory card, if it glitches and recording stops it will power off a few minutes later

This model can be a bit fussy with memory cards as to which models it works with
It didnt seem to glitch any before quitting, the video clips appeared as if i had shut the car off.
I did notice in one instance, 3-4 clips appeared that were 30-130Mb and corrupt.
I formatted the memory card using the camera, incase that was an issue, so i cannot review the clips currently. I will be recording more tomorrow, so i can review that.
I checked, the current card is a Sandisk and it appears reviews are fairly bad for it. The 32Gb one that is coming has very good reviews, though i forgot the brand.

One thing i noticed, the original power cable is rated at 1.5A while the one i replaced it with is rated as 750ma. The manual says the camera requires 500ma, but doesnt say if that means just on or on and recording. Could that be the issue and the cord simply cant provide enough power?
 
Power can also be an issue, try it with the supplied power adapter and see how it goes
I will try the original cable for a while. I switched it out because the original cable interfered with my FM, and i didnt realize the cables had such a big difference in output until now
 
Last edited:
To reduce interference, you can use the ferrite filter such as - http://www.solar-electric.com/nosufefi.html on the original cable. You need to install a two filter on the cable.

I will make the addition of: more about this here http://computer.howstuffworks.com/question352.htm
Very often the power supply for dashcam makes another noname factory
for a low price
The cable i switched to has no issues with interference, i just assumed the original was a dud. Ill mess with cables for a bit and see if i can get the camera to work right before i worry about the interference
 
The cable i switched to has no issues with interference, i just assumed the original was a dud. Ill mess with cables for a bit and see if i can get the camera to work right before i worry about the interference
Yeah I understand,I wanted to point only about the original cable
 
My cam had a problem of switching off and not restarting. To overcome this I have left the screen on. Boots up when powered up and shuts down as programmed now.
 
My cam had a problem of switching off and not restarting. To overcome this I have left the screen on. Boots up when powered up and shuts down as programmed now.
Thanks for the info.
Mine is mounted up behind my mirror hidden from view, so having the screen on wont cause an issue
 
I checked the cable I am using, it is 1.5A as well. I set the display as always on.
I checked the display off and on, it always was showing what was going on.
This time, I recorded about 120 minutes of footage. Out of that, around 100 minutes showed up as corrupt when I put the card in my card reader.
Now, here's what confuses me a bit. I put the card back in the camera and went into review mode. When I selected the corrupt clips, the screen would go blank for a bit. Then, it'd load part of the clip.
Upon putting the card back in the card reader, I could view what was left of the clips. The camera repaired the corrupt clips, er, what was left of them.
My first thought is bad card, as people say these Sandisk cards don't agree with this camera. However, one post here says that the 5/10 minute recording modes tend to have issues, while the 3 minute mode works good?
I will try out the 3 minute mode until my new card arrives. Until then, what are the best settings for these camera's?
 
Back
Top