Mobius

Heat has physical substance to move up as we know. So i guess if mobius mounted with buttons and heat sink down, which is logical for operating a menu buttons, but then a lot of heat "goes" up, back to the main board.
Maybe try mount mobius heat sink facing up. See what then happens.
 
jokiin said:
Heat rises so I suspect mounting it with the heatsink side down isn't really doing it any favours
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Hahh. You read my mind ;)
 
I'm sorry actually it's laying on a special plate the dashboard the heat sink is on the top but anyway it's way too hot. I'm afraid of mounting it under the mirror because of this extreme heat.


I'm not sure which way is better better.

1. Having the heat sink on the bottom then it has better air circulation but the heat goes naturally up.

2. The other way would be the heat sink is on the top and then there is the mount on it which blocks all the air circulation.
 
I don't really think it's as suitable for in car use as people might have hoped, hanging under an RC helicopter for 30 minutes at a time or whatever I'm sure is no stress at all, working in an automotive environment is a bigger ask than some designers appreciate
 
I wonder if micro fan should help
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For RC users mobius is powered on / working maximum 30min at a time as jokiin mentioned. Also they use it in free air where heat sink get cooled down. In-car use is different. Thats why mobius might need some DIY in case it get over heated. Drilling holes, adding a micro fan, or best if both techniques adopted together.
 
With Convective heat transfer gravity does not play an issue. The heat is transferred through the material, so there is no "heat rises", it just moves in all directions. Depending on the material, the rate of heat transfer varies. With metal it moves faster than through glass or wood.

With "Convection" we are dealing with air flow and the movement of heat. With a heat sink on the top the cooler air must come in from the sides and go up. If the heat sink in on the bottom, the cooler air must come in from the bottom and move out the sides. In both cases, a fan helps a lot to increase the movement of air and dissipate the heat.

The term, "heat rises" applies to air movement.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer

I do have access to a thermal camera. If anyone lives in the LA, California area, I can check out the camera and shoot some shots of the Mobius showing the hot spots.



This image is of a model steam train.


Bob Diaz
 
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niko said:
Bob Diaz is also right. I never tested Mobius by removing heat sink, so it was only "a might be working" idea from user "germany".
I support idea of drilling extra holes at both sides, - this way it creates free air-flow to "pull out" heat which is "trapped" inside mobius case. Hope you see my point.

Mounted In-car, Mobius heat sink can be also "attracting" a heat from direct or indirect sunlight or from inner car accumulated temperature. So, without "fan" like used in PC-s, heat sink can play negative role as well by not helping discipation, but by "collecting" a heat as well ( depending on circumstances ). By drilling a holes in both side you create free air-flow, which helps for heat dissipation.
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The extra holes can't hurt anything and are most likely to help keep the inside cooler.

I understand that someone measured the temperature of the Mobius and found it to go as high as 155°F (68°C). In a parked cat on a very hot day with the windows rolled up, maybe the inside of the car might get that hot, but while driving, the inside is a lot cooler. I do have some black heatsinks and a IR thermometer, I'll try measuring their head after a drive to tell you how hot they get. Temperatures in my area should hit 80°F (27°C) today.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25526701&postcount=610

Bob Diaz
 
Guys, I'm looking to permanently wire this dashcam into my car.

What voltage supply and what size fuse should I use?

Thanks :)
 
OK, so I did do some measurements today, but today was less than an ideal day to run the tests. The forecast said, "80°F (27°C) today", but in reality it was 78°F (26°C) today. I didn't teach any classes today at El Camino College, but I did need to go in for a meeting. My car was in the garage, it's about an 18 minute drive to work, no AC while driving, and it sat in the sun for about 2 hours from 11:30 AM to 1:30 PM. I do use a sun shade on the front window, my windows are down a crack, the other windows have window tint (30% transmission), and I drive a Smart Car (smart fortwo).

On returning to my car, all the heat sinks read 99°F (37°C). After an 18 minute drive home with the sun shining on all the heatsinks the reading was 107°F (42°C). Oddly enough the dash read higher at 111°F (44°C). Even the higher dash reading was well under the 155°F (68°C) Mobius reading one user reported. The temperature would have to increase by +44°F (+24°C), thus 78°F (26°C) would become 122°F (50°C) for the relative heat increase to match the upper limit of what was measured. Please understand this is only a ROUGH estimate. Thus any heatsink added should offer some cooling except on the VERY excessively hot days.


TO xreyuk:

Use 12 volts, 1 amp quick blow fuse: The Mobius uses 5 volts, in general we like to provide 1 amp of current just to be safe. The Mobius uses about 1/2 that, but better safe than sorry. Most use a 12 volt, 1 amp lighter adapter to 5 volt USB connection. I strongly suggest making it a switched connection, thus when the car is running, the power is on and when the car is not running the power is off.

One user used his Mobius in his parked car "it overheated [after] a few days of 85 degrees F [29C] in the sun, in the truck with rolled up windows". The unit died after a few days.


On hot days we drive with the AC on, but just sitting parked, there's no AC running and the Mobius could overheat and die.


Bob Diaz
 
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Thanks guys.

I was going to ask, because I know someone who used a 12v to 5v step down power source, but cigarette lighter is 12v so wondered why it was necessary.

Just to confirm, if I am hardwiring it into the fusebox, do I need to convert it from 12v to 5v using something like this, and then put a 12v/1A quick blow fuse into the fusebox? (I am going to find out which fuse holders are live on ignition)
 
Just found a short video showing the new 116 degree HFOV wide angle lens model in action...


Correction... I've just now discovered that the lens is not the Mobius wide angle lens, but a $99 fisheye lens. Apologies for posting incorrect information.
 
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xreyuk said:
Thanks guys.

I was going to ask, because I know someone who used a 12v to 5v step down power source, but cigarette lighter is 12v so wondered why it was necessary.

Just to confirm, if I am hardwiring it into the fusebox, do I need to convert it from 12v to 5v using something like this, and then put a 12v/1A quick blow fuse into the fusebox? (I am going to find out which fuse holders are live on ignition)
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The device you listed looks like it will work. There is a slight chance that the device may briefly draw more than 1 amp at power-up. If you find the fuse popping at power-up, go to a 2 amp quick-blow fuse. The only other choice is using a 1 amp slow-blow fuse. It's best to go with a quick-blow fuse because if something goes wrong, they cut the power quickly. The slow-blow fuse will cut the power, but allows for a short amount of time for the current to exceed the limit of the fuse.

I assume that you have a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) to check the voltage at the fuse box and make sure you don't wire things backward. By the way, RED is always positive and black is always ground or zero Volts. With 12 volts is next to impossible to electrocute yourself, but it is possible to create a short circuit that will cause a fire. Please be careful and double check everything.


Bob Diaz
 
Thanks Bob, I'm a telecoms engineer so work with high voltage DC, so I'm okay with regards to being careful :) Thanks for looking after my safety though!

So, a 1A or 2A if it's blowing on startup, thanks for the info.
 
Just so you know, some power supplies put a very large capacitor at the input end of the supply to act as an extra filter from voltage glitches. It works, but can cause a high current when first connected. A capacitor looks like a short when first connected to the power. After the capacitor charges, it looks like an open to the power.
 
Hi everyone,
I/ www.JooVuu.com put together a quick video showing the difference between wide and standard lens etc. Both are using WDR at 1080dp 30fps and are running the latest FW. From about 3mins 15 you can see each lens individually.

I will upload the raw footage tomorrow and post a link once it has been done.


Any questions please do not hesitate to ask at info@joovuu.com

Kind regards,

JooVuu
 
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