SG9663DR update

Figuring out how to deal with EV are probably a good idea, seem to be the way the world are going.

I might even live long enough to see sale of gasoline cars banned in Denmark.
 
Figuring out how to deal with EV are probably a good idea, seem to be the way the world are going.
the kind of thing where we need to rely on feedback from owners and installers, don't see enough of them still to be able to check them ourselves, I do know they can be a challenge though
 
Last edited:
The whole scene with new cars is a challenge as computer-controlled power and CANBUS are becoming the norm. That's my main concern with a hardwiring-only approach, but it also affect ciggie lighter sockets too so there's no clear answer from our end of things. The car manufacturers should step up to bat and make fitting aftermarket equipment easier- that's the real solutiion ;) Here in the US we have "SEMA"- Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association, an industry advocacy group for aftermarket equipment manufacturers which pressures the car manufacturers to doing things like this. I don't know how effective they are, but if there were a similar world-wide association then maybe those numbers would be enough to get us better results. Does such a group exist?

Phil
 
likely gonna have to run it 24/7 due to lack of fuse box and +ACC connection in a Tesla Model 3/Y.

There should be a setting in the menu to timer out with selectable duration so it will auto turn off.

Dang no fuse box in an all electric car!? WOW. I like new cars for all the tech/features but just hate them for that same reason. You know what it takes to start my truck..a key.. one that I can have made at any key place for .99c and can have a thousand+ copies. The new cars, limited to about 4-5 "smart keys" (I call them stupid keys) @ $300+ a pop and needs to be programed by a specialist. New cars are essentially a "computer" on wheels and computers don't last very long in relation to good old mechanical. I am not hating on you car, it is very nice and given the choice if someone was to "give" me a car I would take yours over mine. I just don't care to buy a new car every 5-10 years. BTW you will get your DR before me as mine was sent UPS and will not get here until next week...but I bet mine will be 10xs easier to install. I have tons of room under the dash/center consul. Only airbags I have are 2 not 10+ like in yours and I would not want to be taking my "computer" apart and running wires throughout, yicks scary. Again, you have a very nice car and are better protected against injury in a wreak.
 
Last edited:
lack of fuse box and +ACC connection in a Tesla Model 3/Y.
Again, wow. Did a little google search and there are options for model 3. I only read the first parts of these 2 web pages. Do you want the cam running in normal mode when parked or for it to switch to parking mode? Yes as you know it needs a +ACC switched terminal for it to go into parking mode and to have that auto shutdown timer feature. If not then it will keep writing on the card in 1-5 min. segments never shutting down. Read also that the Tesla can give the cams battery monitor a false reading in voltage drop, even when driving, thus the cam can shut down even when driving. Maybe wire the DR switched +ACC to a constant + and put a physical cut off switch someplace convenient. You will have to flip that switch every time to get it in and out of parking mode but if you don't drive it for a long time the timer will never shut it down. I would not like it running for longer than a few hours when parked yet alone for days on end. Also you might not want to use the supplied DR voltage monitor for the reason of it can shut down when there is plenty of voltage but verify the power going out of the battery monitor is 12v and not something like 5v. SG can verify if the cams head unit input is full 12v. Don't forget to install old school inline fuses as you cannot use the fuse taps. lol, you need "technology" from way back in the form of inline fuse to protect the dash cam because the Tesla is so advanced it does not need fuses.
I did scroll down and read this...
Model 3 Power
Model 3 uses an electronic fuse system, that if tapped into the wrong place, your dashcam will generate errors and problems! Tesla was nice enough to provide a separate 10 amp circuit that is electronically fused for 15 amps. It is not used for anything else, but it is switched power – meaning the power turns off when the car turns off. Use Video1 and Video 2 from Ingineerix to help connect to this power source in the cabin at the left footwell module.



 
Last edited:
There should be a setting in the menu to timer out with selectable duration so it will auto turn off.

Dang no fuse box in an all electric car!? WOW. I like new cars for all the tech/features but just hate them for that same reason. You know what it takes to start my truck..a key.. one that I can have made at any key place for .99c and can have a thousand+ copies. The new cars, limited to about 4-5 "smart keys" (I call them stupid keys) @ $300+ a pop and needs to be programed by a specialist. New cars are essentially a "computer" on wheels and computers don't last very long in relation to good old mechanical. I am not hating on you car, it is very nice and given the choice if someone was to "give" me a car I would take yours over mine. I just don't care to buy a new car every 5-10 years. BTW you will get your DR before me as mine was sent UPS and will not get here until next week...but I bet mine will be 10xs easier to install. I have tons of room under the dash/center consul. Only airbags I have are 2 not 10+ like in yours and I would not want to be taking my "computer" apart and running wires throughout, yicks scary. Again, you have a very nice car and are better protected against injury in a wreak.

Don't confuse ****ty EVs with Tesla. New Teslas give 2 NFC keycards (I think any NFC device will work, just give it access on the computer), any phone with Tesla App will work to start the car. A/C can be turned on remotely from the app.
 
Again, wow. Did a little google search and there are options for model 3. I only read the first parts of these 2 web pages. Do you want the cam running in normal mode when parked or for it to switch to parking mode? Yes as you know it needs a +ACC switched terminal for it to go into parking mode and to have that auto shutdown timer feature. If not then it will keep writing on the card in 1-5 min. segments never shutting down. Read also that the Tesla can give the cams battery monitor a false reading in voltage drop, even when driving, thus the cam can shut down even when driving. Maybe wire the DR switched +ACC to a constant + and put a physical cut off switch someplace convenient. You will have to flip that switch every time to get it in and out of parking mode but if you don't drive it for a long time the timer will never shut it down. I would not like it running for longer than a few hours when parked yet alone for days on end. Also you might not want to use the supplied DR voltage monitor for the reason of it can shut down when there is plenty of voltage but verify the power going out of the battery monitor is 12v and not something like 5v. SG can verify if the cams head unit input is full 12v. Don't forget to install old school inline fuses as you cannot use the fuse taps. lol, you need "technology" from way back in the form of inline fuse to protect the dash cam because the Tesla is so advanced it does not need fuses.
I did scroll down and read this...
Model 3 Power
Model 3 uses an electronic fuse system, that if tapped into the wrong place, your dashcam will generate errors and problems! Tesla was nice enough to provide a separate 10 amp circuit that is electronically fused for 15 amps. It is not used for anything else, but it is switched power – meaning the power turns off when the car turns off. Use Video1 and Video 2 from Ingineerix to help connect to this power source in the cabin at the left footwell module.




The switched terminals turn off only after 12 hours!
There is no way to program a timer to auto turn off after you park your car because there's no way to determine when you parked your car.
That comment from the article about generating errors and problems by tapping into the wrong place sounds dumb.
The available circuit on Tesla Model 3/Y is called VCLeft (vehicle computer left) Aux 12V, it was supposed to be used for trailer hitch, but never implemented, so it can be used for DIY, again it's switched so 12 hours turn off time, 10A avg, 15A breaker transistor controlled.

If you want the camera to truly run 24/7, then you'll have to tap into the penthouse below the rear passenger seat, it's a 12V supply for the entire 12V vehicle system and it's always on, fed by the HV battery. It's something like 200A or more, so don't short it out. Definitely want fuses there and well secured and isolated wiring.

There's way to determine if car is in park mode from the available wires/etc, manual approach with a switch is the only way I guess.

I've been wanting to make a power box splitter for Tesla Model 3/Y to provide power to accessories and devices. I used to have several dashcams, radars, scanners, etc in my vehicle, need a box to connect it all to and run the wires to the penthouse 12V.
 
Don't confuse ****ty EVs with Tesla. New Teslas give 2 NFC keycards (I think any NFC device will work, just give it access on the computer), any phone with Tesla App will work to start the car. A/C can be turned on remotely from the app.
I do not mean any disrespect to anyone's car. I think all new cars are very nice and they are certainly much nicer than my outdated car that works perfectly and has never had an issue for 18 years, this might be hard to say for ANY newer car 18 years from now. I just care when spending 10's of thousands of dollars that the product I purchase lasts me for say decades. As you can tell I am not dependent on (my) smartphone, lol and don't live by the means of APPs. There are many benefits of new cars over my old daily diriver, mostly safety but when it comes to working on a new car, that is not a direction I care to handle myself. BTW the best and easiest car I have ever owned and worked on was a 1933 model year. Though get in a wreak in this, I might not survive.

update to my post here...Just did a check on the net..."Up to 19 total key fobs, key cards and smartphones can be paired with a Model 3" hehe, no big deal (19 is plenty enough) I can still have an unlimited number of keys, down side, when I lose a key it is still out there, where you can just delete it from the system. No perfect solution for every situation. My diss. was on smart keys in general but as you say not the Tesla, and soon to be BMW the same as Tesla to have user program NFC/smartphone. I still have to pay someone .99c for a key. I guess you can hide an NFC someplace on the car where it will not affect the computer. Having a hidden key on the car is an absolute must for me. Had to have a smart key made for a car, hide the door key outside, remove the battery in the fob and have the fob hidden inside so in case I lose my keys I can still start the car. One can lose their smartphone that starts the car then no way to start the car without a hidden key, well unless you have internet as maybe signing into an account one can unlock and start the car, but again for me I don't live by the internet and APPs.

temp.jpg

The switched terminals turn off only after 12 hours!
There is no way to program a timer to auto turn off after you park your car because there's no way to determine when you parked your car.
I know absolutely nothing about EVs. I was surprised that Tesla 3 had no fuses, but now I understand why and how. Just trying to help the poster with possible options. With the article that has information that does not seem right I don't know, not a concern of mine, just trying to help. As for the way to program a timer I am referring to the SGDR. It knows when you turn off the car because there is a 2nd +ACC lead that gets connected to ACC switched fuse, thus the cam knows when the car has been "parked" or shall I say turned off. That tells the DR to start the internal timer to turn off the cam at the set duration.
 
Last edited:
I may be lost here but I haven't been getting updates on the SG9663DR, from what I'm reading is it already for sale, can I buy the setup now! If so where and are there any better place to buy it and any discounts anywhere!

Thanks all!
 
I may be lost here but I haven't been getting updates on the SG9663DR, from what I'm reading is it already for sale, can I buy the setup now! If so where and are there any better place to buy it and any discounts anywhere!

Thanks all!

That's correct, a soft launch just happened.
USA received a small batch last week and that small-batch sold out.
There is a 2nd small-batch en route arriving either Friday or Monday. (scheduled for Monday but DHL is almost always a day early)
If you per-order now it will ship out when the 2nd small batch arrives.
We'll have heaps of DR's in stock when the slower sea freight arrives a few weeks from now.
 
That's correct, a soft launch just happened.
USA received a small batch last week and that small-batch sold out.
There is a 2nd small-batch en route arriving either Friday or Monday. (scheduled for Monday but DHL is almost always a day early)
If you per-order now it will ship out when the 2nd small batch arrives.
We'll have heaps of DR's in stock when the slower sea freight arrives a few weeks from now.

Awesome thanks

All bugs worked out and are they looking good!
 
I think we're bug free, the release firmware is our ninth update, not to say we can't have missed something though so any feedback helps if anyone finds something not working, the iOS app update just went out this week, the Android version isn't final yet, first draft of the manual should be available for download within a week
 
Damned studios, I had such a cool looking SentryMode screensaver in my Tesla Model 3, they had to go and file a cease and desist against Tesla, so Tesla changed the SentryMode icon.
Getting my DR in the mail this week, will see how best to mount it, likely gonna have to run it 24/7 due to lack of fuse box and +ACC connection in a Tesla Model 3/Y.
Isn't there a regular old 12v accessory outlet in the model 3, for things like phone chargers, radar detectors, or whatever? Seems that would be the ideal +acc connection to tap into, and probably the penthouse as you called it for your +b.
 
Isn't there a regular old 12v accessory outlet in the model 3, for things like phone chargers, radar detectors, or whatever? Seems that would be the ideal +acc connection to tap into, and probably the penthouse as you called it for your +b.
There are 2 USB plugs in the front, 2 USB in the rear. 1 12V socket in the center console. All of these run up to 12 hours after the car has been parked. The 12V socket is super inconvenient for things you need to connect outside of the center console, basically need to keep your elbow rest open.
It's not +ACC if it continues to run 12 hours after you parked...
 
Uuuuu now that's a car i would wheel. (y)
 
Back
Top