SGDCHW for SG9663DC (3-wire hardwire kit to enable PARKING MODE function) Timed & Low Battery Discharge Prevention

will see how it goes, keep charging once in a while.
 
jokiin said:
are you able to connect the B+ direct to battery rather than through the fuse panel?
Click to expand...
Not that I'm aware of. I would need a long cable to do that and even then I will have to see how I can get it under the hood.
 
if it consistently cuts off after a few minutes can only think that the circuit may be controlled by the ECU, will see why I can find out about your vehicle to see if that is the case, wiring direct to the battery would have bypassed that but not easy to test if it's not practical to do in your car
 
jokiin said:
if it consistently cuts off after a few minutes can only think that the circuit may be controlled by the ECU, will see why I can find out about your vehicle to see if that is the case, wiring direct to the battery would have bypassed that but not easy to test if it's not practical to do in your car
Click to expand...
What's weird though is that it works sometimes and other times it does not. It is plugged in the brake lamp fuse and the brake lights to turn on when the camera is off. Let me know if you find something about the car. Also if I did want to direct connect to the battery how would I go from the red fuse wire to the positive battery plug? Such as what cable would I use?
 
winter4w, I would recommend against wiring into your brake lights as many would consider this to be a safety system. In my Audi, I decided to wire a new circuit into the fuse panel to ensure that I did not impede any system, while my approach may be considered extreme, I wanted to be as prudent as possible. I spoke to one of the electrical specialists at my dealer and he also recommended this approach. Also, since many manufacturers employ monitoring systems in the electrical/battery system, I decided to use a Cellink Neo to further isolate the electrical system from regular discharge during parking mode. The nice feature with the Neo is that it uses Bluetooth to communicate with a phone app so that I can observe the voltage and amperage for both the charging and discharge states. If you take your time, my approach is not difficult, and can be accomplished with a $15 12v probe circuit tester, a $30 multi-meter and a good crimp tool/wire stripper.

If you go with fuse taps, a better approach would be to use the cigarette lighter/12v accessory socket fuse for the ACC circuit (only if it is powered with the ignition and assuming you do not use it for other large amperage draw devices) and the interior lights for the BAT circuit. I would also verify in your owners manual that the dash lights are separate from the interior lights. This is also the other benefit of the Cellink Neo, I only needed to create one new circuit for ACC (i.e. ignition on) as the Neo only demands a charging current draw during vehicle operation. If using a fuse tap, only one to an ACC source is required.
 
Brian_CA said:
If you go with fuse taps, a better approach would be to use the cigarette lighter/12v accessory socket fuse for the ACC circuit (only if it is powered with the ignition and assuming you do not use it for other large amperage draw devices) and the interior lights for the BAT circuit.
Click to expand...

That's what I did in my 2017 Hyundai Tucson - ACC to cig lighter and BAT to interior lights
 
Brian_CA said:
winter4w, I would recommend against wiring into your brake lights as many would consider this to be a safety system. In my Audi, I decided to wire a new circuit into the fuse panel to ensure that I did not impede any system, while my approach may be considered extreme, I wanted to be as prudent as possible. I spoke to one of the electrical specialists at my dealer and he also recommended this approach. Also, since many manufacturers employ monitoring systems in the electrical/battery system, I decided to use a Cellink Neo to further isolate the electrical system from regular discharge during parking mode. The nice feature with the Neo is that it uses Bluetooth to communicate with a phone app so that I can observe the voltage and amperage for both the charging and discharge states. If you take your time, my approach is not difficult, and can be accomplished with a $15 12v probe circuit tester, a $30 multi-meter and a good crimp tool/wire stripper.

If you go with fuse taps, a better approach would be to use the cigarette lighter/12v accessory socket fuse for the ACC circuit (only if it is powered with the ignition and assuming you do not use it for other large amperage draw devices) and the interior lights for the BAT circuit. I would also verify in your owners manual that the dash lights are separate from the interior lights. This is also the other benefit of the Cellink Neo, I only needed to create one new circuit for ACC (i.e. ignition on) as the Neo only demands a charging current draw during vehicle operation. If using a fuse tap, only one to an ACC source is required.
Click to expand...
Interesting setup Biran. I did one time look into the Cellink batteries however I am still concerned about them being in a really hot climate. Where I'm at it can get up to 110-115 in the summer on really hot days. Also, do you have any pictures of your setup? I am interested to see how you got the hardware kit linked to the Cellink Neo. For my setup, I did use the door fuse however we thought it may be the reason why the camera was turning off. They said to try the Stop Lamp fuse and I seem to still be getting the same issue. Any fuses you recommend? Here is my fuse diagram for my car: https://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM50487U/pdf/lexomsou/96lexom/96lsom/sect6/640.pdf
 
Fuse #22 (horns) will likely be full-time hot. Possibly fuses #33(telephone) and #35 (theft deterrent system) will be the same. All of the others I saw could easily be switched circuits or on a power-management scheme. Positively avoid any related to exterior lighting, ABS, SRS, engine management, or any form of active suspension control as a fault with those could lead to a crash.

Phil
 
SawMaster said:
Fuse #22 (horns) will likely be full-time hot. Possibly fuses #33(telephone) and #35 (theft deterrent system) will be the same. All of the others I saw could easily be switched circuits or on a power-management scheme. Positively avoid any related to exterior lighting, ABS, SRS, engine management, or any form of active suspension control as a fault with those could lead to a crash.

Phil
Click to expand...
I would have picked the horn fuse or any of those other ones however that fuse box is under the hood. Fuses 1-21 are the ones under the dash.
 
There's nothing inside I'd want to tap into except perhaps for fuse #10 (Rear cig lighter and Shift lock). If it blows, the worst that would happen is that your car couldn't be shifted out of 'Park' which is darned inconvenient but not terribly unsafe.

With most vehicles, you can find a grommet where something goes through the firewall and sneak a wire in beside that 'thing'. Just stay inside the grommet, not outside where firewall metal can cut the wire insulation, and not where a moving part is like a brake rod. Not always an easy job though as so much stuff is crammed in to today's cars that finding a grommet you can access on both sides is a challenge all by itself. Took me a half hour on a 94 Buick, and I'm really good at stuff like this :eek:

Phil
 
SawMaster said:
There's nothing inside I'd want to tap into except perhaps for fuse #10 (Rear cig lighter and Shift lock). If it blows, the worst that would happen is that your car couldn't be shifted out of 'Park' which is darned inconvenient but not terribly unsafe.

With most vehicles, you can find a grommet where something goes through the firewall and sneak a wire in beside that 'thing'. Just stay inside the grommet, not outside where firewall metal can cut the wire insulation, and not where a moving part is like a brake rod. Not always an easy job though as so much stuff is crammed in to today's cars that finding a grommet you can access on both sides is a challenge all by itself. Took me a half hour on a 94 Buick, and I'm really good at stuff like this :eek:

Phil
Click to expand...
Yea seems like this car is a bit hard to tap in. Since I seem to be getting the same issue I may try the door fuse. I will see if @jokiin finds out anything. The ACC fuse is tapped into the rear cig. Reading online people seemed to drill through there firewalls to get cables through. The last thing I want to do is damage that nice car lol.
 
winter4w, I have attached the specs for the Cellink Neo. Where I am we have great variability in temps from high 90's F in the summer to -20+F in winter (based upon feedback from others on this site, the bigger risk seems to be with charging when the Neo is below freezing). I mounted mine under the front seat using the included Velcro strips. I determined this to be the coolest location (i.e. low on the floor, gets hit with AC air during driving and not in direct sunlight). I ordered the Neo with the 3-wire unspliced option (BAT, ACC and GND) which is an exact match for the 3 wires in the SGDCHW kit. If you were to go this route, I would likely use a fuse tap to to the #4 fuse (Front Fog Lamps) as it is a 15 amp circuit and it should only be hot with the ignition on (the Neo only has two wires for attaching to your car, one for GND and the other ACC). Since the Neo only draws a max of 9 amps, as long as you rarely use the fogs it would be the ideal circuit, IMO. In the Cellink app pic 25C is 77F, my car sits in a garage attached to my house so that is the approximate ambient temp in my car. I'm very pleased with the Neo, with the 2 camera SG9663DC set-up it should provide output for approx 25+ hours. I will take a screen grab while the car is running and also when I turn it off so that you can see the app info during the charge and discharge states.

On another cautionary point I would be hesitant to use the cigarette lighter (#11) for any device as it is also the circuit for the air bag system, not sure how that got certified!!!
 

Attachments

  • Cellink Neo Specs.jpg
    Cellink Neo Specs.jpg
    87.3 KB · Views: 12
  • CELLINK Neo APP image.jpg
    CELLINK Neo APP image.jpg
    190.7 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:
My little cheap ass car have a spare hole in the fire wall, closed by a grommet as its not in use.
I assume that hole are for advanced things like aircon that my little cheapo car dont have.
But i could not imagine any self respecting American letting his wife or children be seen in a little tin can like mine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
D SGDCHW Add-A-Fuse Micro 2’s Don’t Fit Ford F150 SG9663DC & SG9663DCPRO 77
M Street Guardian SG9663DCPRO Dual + Street Guardian SGDCHW SG9663DC & SG9663DCPRO 6
T SGDCHW - no output power / camera not turning on SG9663DC & SG9663DCPRO 4
T Which fuses to tap for SGDCHW hardwire parking? SG9663DC & SG9663DCPRO 61
L SGDCHW and Ford Focus 2016 SG9663DC & SG9663DCPRO 12
Similar threads
SGDCHW Add-A-Fuse Micro 2’s Don’t Fit Ford F150
Street Guardian SG9663DCPRO Dual + Street Guardian SGDCHW
SGDCHW - no output power / camera not turning on
Which fuses to tap for SGDCHW hardwire parking?
SGDCHW and Ford Focus 2016
Back
Top