Street Guardian has the SG9665GC listed

alexsoll said:
READING LICENSE PLATES OF ONCOMING VEHICLES (BYPASSING ONE RANGE OF MOTION) AT A SPEED OF ABOUT 80 KM/H

WDR-Off
EV-2/3


https://yadi.sk/i/rXpQynhJfpf5n

https://yadi.sk/i/ys3tDO7Ffpgry

https://yadi.sk/i/JDfjqgY_fpf49

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These comparison photos are most excellent, nice job @alexsoll

I just created a Pier28 inc facebook photo album so I/anyone can quickly reference them in the future. I have a link to this album on the SG9665GC product page itself as well.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/....523797854420857&type=1&__mref=message_bubble
 
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Please excuse my ignorance, but I just noticed Pier28 also sells a hardware kit. What is that for, and what are the advantages? With that kit, if I forget to turn off the dashcam, wouldn't it record continuously. Say I am parked in my garage overnight, wouldn't it overwrite my entire memory card with video staring at a wall, deleting days of real driving footage?
 
for those that don't want to use the cig plug, can be wired to a switched circuit to go on and off with ignition, it's more about stealth install

can be wired to a permanent feed also if that's a requirement, only has fixed low voltage cut though, not selectable
 
SuperGoop said:
Please excuse my ignorance, but I just noticed Pier28 also sells a hardware kit. What is that for, and what are the advantages? With that kit, if I forget to turn off the dashcam, wouldn't it record continuously. Say I am parked in my garage overnight, wouldn't it overwrite my entire memory card with video staring at a wall, deleting days of real driving footage?
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jokiin said:
for those that don't want to use the cig plug, can be wired to a switched circuit to go on and off with ignition, it's more about stealth install

can be wired to a permanent feed also if that's a requirement, only has fixed low voltage cut though, not selectable
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As Jokiin said, you can wire the CELL POWER CPUSB01 miniUSB BDP hard wire kit to a Switched/Accessory fuse power circuit and it will turn on/off with the car engine. (you need to buy an add-a-fuse pig tail)
You can also buy a 64GB card if you want to have 10 (edit:8.5) hours of 15Mbps recording as well.
 
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five22 said:
I also have a problem with the dash cam interfering with my radio reception. unplugging it at lighter end and it stops. I left lighter end plugged and removed usb end and it also stops. So basically with power it interferes with my radio reception. You guys have any solution to help me?QUOTE]

Is the interference AM or FM band? In Australia, FM band interference happens with the 0801 Dash Cam. As Jokiin mentions, clip on ferrite suppressors, preferably one at each end of the USB cable can assist. Also, winding the power wires to the USB power supply through a ferrite toroid may help too. Last resort, which seems to work the best is to try a UBEC model aircraft switch-mode PSU. They are well shield and come with the ferrite toroid mentioned. Further shielding by mounting the UBEC in a diecast box may also help. Oh, and search eBay for the UBEC. They only cost a few dollars. Here's the general idea https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181680975864
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On Sunday I went out for a ride and noticed in certain areas I get interference with the FM signal. I've been through these areas before and never noticed any interference with my radio FM reception and the only difference was the fact I have GCs (2) in the car now. It went on for quite a few miles and it would clear up in some areas but go right back to interference. I'm assuming the weaker areas as when I got closer to home there was no interference, most of my driving is in local areas so never noticed this problem before. I didn't disconnect the GC during that particular run as I wasn't sure of the cause then I read others here experience interference. If I get a chance later in the week I'll take another drive through that weak area and when I get the interference I'll disconnect the unit(s) and see if it makes any difference.

I'm using USB cable for power (10ft USB 2.0 A Male to Mini-B 5pin Male 28/24AWG Cable w/ Ferrite Core (Gold Plated), through an Omaker Intelligent 6.6A / 33W Premium Aluminum 3 USB Car Charger .

Fred
 
first thing to try would be to use the provided power adapters in place of what you have setup now and see how it compares, if it's clean then you can move onto some further trouble shooting steps

where is the antenna in the vehicle, in glass, external, amplified or non amplified etc?
 
jokiin said:
first thing to try would be to use the provided power adapters in place of what you have setup now and see how it compares, if it's clean then you can move onto some further trouble shooting steps

where is the antenna in the vehicle, in glass, external, amplified or non amplified etc?
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Yes, that was part of the plan to switch to the adapter supplied with the unit. If it's clean (and I sure hope so) then the fun begins cause I really don't want to start purchasing adapters and cables again only to run into the same situation. I do want a stealth install and the length of cable supplied with the unit does not seem to be long enough. The cable I'm using is 10ft and it just barely makes it.
I also have the GPS unit mounted on the dash not sure if that's the culprit.


As for the location of antenna, I'm not quite sure, I believe it's in the dash but I'll see if it's mentioned in the manual somewhere and I don't think it's amplified.

Fred
 
comparison of angle review of different models BlackVue and Street Guardian SG9665GC

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jokiin said:
ok let us know how you get on
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Been doing some research on the location of antenna. As far as I can tell (thus far) the FM/AM antennas are located in the rear hatch area and are amplified/controlled by the head unit. Weak signal triggers more antenna gain and strong signal triggers less antenna gain. Don't know what or if that would have any effect on the GC, in my scenario I do have 2 GC's and one is located in rear with wiring as mentioned earlier. Guess that's just one more thing I'll have to keep in mind when I go for the next ride and swap the cables.

Would it be a good idea to create a thread for problems/issues?

Fred
 
can discuss it here no problem

once you swap the leads over if there's still noise try just running the front cam to see if the noise is being picked up by the rear cam being close to the antenna

the challenge with amplified antenna systems is they don't just amplify radio signals, they can amplify any electrical noise they might pick up as well, when you manufacture the car you can keep this in mind and keep other electronics away from the antenna system, what we add aftermarket though they can't (or don't) account for

see how you go though, one step at a time
 
Dashmellow said:
You may find that adding some ferrite beads or chokes to your cables may reduce or even cure the problem.
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could well do, it's worth going through the basic troubleshooting steps to see where the interference originates to know how to tackle it
 
jokiin said:
can discuss it here no problem

once you swap the leads over if there's still noise try just running the front cam to see if the noise is being picked up by the rear cam being close to the antenna

the challenge with amplified antenna systems is they don't just amplify radio signals, they can amplify any electrical noise they might pick up as well, when you manufacture the car you can keep this in mind and keep other electronics away from the antenna system, what we add aftermarket though they can't (or don't) account for

see how you go though, one step at a time
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Yeah, once I read of the possible location of the antenna's I started to worry it might actually be the rear cam. If it actually is the rear one then I'd be in a pickle cause my car doesn't allow for a lot of areas to relocate a rear camera. Don't know if a remote unit would have been a better choice.
But I'm getting ahead of myself, after I do the road testing I'll know better.
one step at a time. (fingers crossed)
 
it may be an effect of the rear camera but that might not always mean having to move the rear camera, could mean running the power cable a different way, different cable, adding ferrites etc

work out where the problem starts to then work out how to resolve
 
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