@mcaf123

Don't know whether you plan on hardwiring or not, if not you could run the wire like shown below, green line behind the plastic trim.

View attachment 34789

These cameras are meant to be stealthy, better to mount it on the dotted area with just the lens visible from the outside.

View attachment 34790
I've got a Vico Power Plus I'll be using to begin with and then I'll swap it out for the SG hardwire kit.

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@jokiin is the SG hardwire kit going to plug directly into the camera's power port to replace the power cable that comes with the camera in the box?

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Most airbag wiring is covered in yellow or orange (or some other bold color) loom to make it stand out and say "leave me alone!"and the sensor itself is often a little black box, no bigger than a golf ball.

Not all side crash sensors are in the doors. Some are in the B pillar, some are in the center of the car under the console. I was mostly joking - you'd really have to TRY to hit an airbag sensor.
dont forget the seatbelt pretensioners. just as explosive pull back seatbelts.
 
can't blame them. even when i was a mechanic, i was nervous the first couple times i actually removed an airbag. there's a hell of a lot of energy in them, so you do have to be careful. but since you won't be removing them or even disconnecting them from the car for this, it's pretty safe. just don't hit any of the impact sensors inside the doors while the key is on. ;)


when i was installing DVDs i never removed the headliner either - just A and B pillar trims to allow access into the headliner. less dis/re-assembly than running along the lower sills.

if you have a pano-roof, you might actually be lucky in that you can simply pull off the trim securing the headliner along the edges of the sunroof opening, then just tuck your wires in that way - far from the airbags and above the sunroof's moving parts/tracks. then you won't have to mess with removing ANY pillar trim.

as for preventing wire rattles, you can either zip-tie it to existing wiring or wrap the wire in foam or felt tape so it can't rattle against anything. most times, though, the headliner itself already has padding for noise reduction, so there's already padding to prevent rattles. obviously, every car is different - i can't say what yours may be like. but in most vehicles with a sunroof, there's an easily removable (no tools required) trim around the edge of the sunroof opening that simply pushes on, just like the weatherstrip around the door or trunk. worth a look - might save you a ton of time and effort!

I'll have a look around the sun roof. Above the doors is a no go - I checked and the curtain airbag is in the way and the roof lining is some sort of material that doesn't like being flexed. I've got the same sort of roof lining in the Suzuki Kizashi I own, you flex it too far and it doesn't spring back (leaving noticeable ripples in the lining.)

I've done a lot of electrical work on cars so am very familiar with secure the wiring, wrapping it in tape and foam to stop rattling etc.

Rick, I did rough length measurements and a 6m cable would get me about half way up the C pillar (going via the floor.) I'd be interested to know how your installer did a larger CX9 via the floor.

Me, I'm going to stick with two separate cameras. So are you going to start selling the front camera as a standalone product Rick? :) A lot of other companies do that and IIRC it was mentioned 1080p @ 60fps is possible without the rear camera connected.
 
Rick, I did rough length measurements and a 6m cable would get me about half way up the C pillar (going via the floor.) I'd be interested to know how your installer did a larger CX9 via the floor.

actually he did it through the roof and had over 3M of cable left, he measured it out doing it via the floor and still had cable to spare but a much bigger job to go that way, rear seats out etc

So are you going to start selling the front camera as a standalone product Rick? :) A lot of other companies do that and IIRC it was mentioned 1080p @ 60fps is possible without the rear camera connected.

no, but we have another model coming that will be offered that way, as a single channel with the option to add the second camera
 
I'll have a look around the sun roof. Above the doors is a no go - I checked and the curtain airbag is in the way and the roof lining is some sort of material that doesn't like being flexed. I've got the same sort of roof lining in the Suzuki Kizashi I own, you flex it too far and it doesn't spring back (leaving noticeable ripples in the lining.)

I checked around the panoramic sunroof and there's no trim around the edge as such. The roof lining goes all the way to the opening.

I'll wait and keep looking for something more suitable. I've got 2 x Mobius which do the job, I just need to double check they've auto started and not rely on the date/ time being held. (Which of course is annoying and I occasionally forget to check.)
 
You should be able to hide the cable behind the door rubber gasket.
 
That's right where the curtain airbags "explode" out from. ;)
 
That's right where the curtain airbags "explode" out from. ;)

running cables through the roof lining and behind the airbags is no issue, there are factory wires up there in most cars, might be beyond the DIY level for some though
 
running cables through the roof lining and behind the airbags is no issue, there are factory wires up there in most cars, might be beyond the DIY level for some though

Yes, if you can get access to run the cable along the wiring harness above the curtain airbag that is okay. Tucking the cable in behind the rubber door seal/ gasket (as suggested) isn't a safe thing to do with curtain airbags. As mentioned previously, I'd have to pull the roof lining to do it properly; it's not worth the effort or risk of breaking trim pieces/ damaging the roof lining. I've got a fuse box in the cargo area, so power is already there to run a second separate camera. That also means I can run two cheaper memory cards and they should last twice as long due to less writing cycles. Dual channel also often means capping the video specs of one (or both) compared to running two separate cameras.

Just some thoughts. Everyone has differing priorities and desired features from their dash cams.

PS: Do you place warnings in the instructions for DIYers to avoid tucking the cable behind the top of the door channel seals if the vehicle has curtain airbags?
 
PS: Do you place warnings in the instructions for DIYers to avoid tucking the cable behind the top of the door channel seals if the vehicle has curtain airbags?

we advise people with side curtain airbags to seek professional installation, it doesn't require removal of the headlining but does often require some specific tools and some knowledge of how to do it correctly, it's not something everyone knows how to do, all dual cams have the same sort of issues when it comes to installation
 
People could also just route down low in the car, at least if their car are a smaller one, i went that route with the test 0906 i was supplied with and that worked fine and was pretty fast to get done in my little Suzuki.
 
@alexsoll 4 minute file size ?

Can the DC do 1-2-3-4-5 minutes or something
 
Aaaa dident think about that :rolleyes::oops: though that selection might be nice for some, and it should be easy to make in the firmware i think.
 
That's right where the curtain airbags "explode" out from. ;)
I read on this forum a lot of discussions about curtain airbags and dashcam wires.
Maybe I am the only here which is thinking that is more possible to be killed by a car compared to a wire.
When wiring a dashcam to the rear is better to look on YouTube how are they exploding, for example:

enjoy,
Mtz
 
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