A129 3-wire kit

[RavenManiac]

The other issue I have is a slight high pitch noise on all my recordings. I have recorded from a USB charger and the noise is not there. So I am wondering if I have a bad ground point from the hard wire kit?

I'm having the same problem. How did you resolve the high-pitched noise issue? Thanks!

 

[Bnedea]

Same problem here, the high-pitched sound drives me crazy. I noticed it appears only when a129 is recording (maybe it draws more current). If i take off microsd card, the sound goes away.
Maybe the kit is not delivering enough voltage / amps?

 

[RavenManiac]

Same problem here, the high-pitched sound drives me crazy. I noticed it appears only when a129 is recording (maybe it draws more current). If i take off microsd card, the sound goes away.
Maybe the kit is not delivering enough voltage / amps?

What year, make, and model car did you install the A129 in?

By the way, I started a specific thread about the high-pitched noise, which you'll find here: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/a129-duo-high-pitched-noise.38653/ Please add your comments to that thread as I referenced it in a support ticket I created with Viofo. Thanks!

 

[Bnedea]

I use it in an old Dacia Logan 2007, and the HK3 kit is connected to the red/yellow wires that power the car stereo.

 

[RavenManiac]

I use it in an old Dacia Logan 2007, and the HK3 kit is connected to the red/yellow wires that power the car stereo.

Thanks for the info. I'll let you know something in the other thread as soon as I hear back from Viofo. By the way, another dashcamtalk.com member shared with me that Viofo told him that it's a problem with the 3-wire kit, but they haven't publically acknowledged that yet. They're probably trying to determine if these are isolated cases or something more widespread.

 

[RavenManiac]

With inspiration from kioneo, I received my 3 wire kit and went through a similar installation. The camera is installed in a 2016 VW GTI (MK7).

SETUP
- My rocker switch is slightly different where I'm using SPDT (on-on) options. This gives me 2 settings:
1) Camera with Parking Mode (PM), always on.
2) Camera with ACC power only, no parking mode.

- Electrical diagram of setup:

So is this the wiring diagram everyone is using to switch the parking mode on and off or has it been modified?

Also, since the 12V (ACC +) line is always hot, why can't you simply use a SPST switch for the 12V (Bat +) line to engage/disengage the parking mode?

 

[Bnedea]

Simply because the camera works with 5V not with 12V.
And with the HK3 kit, you don't have to push any button, or forget to push it and exit Parking Mode, while in a hurry... and so the camera won't record anything.

 

[bodycount28]

So is this the wiring diagram everyone is using to switch the parking mode on and off or has it been modified?

Also, since the 12V (ACC +) line is always hot, why can't you simply use a SPST switch for the 12V (Bat +) line to engage/disengage the parking mode?

Yes you can and would be more efficient, less wires to reroute. I didn’t want to go through the hassle of exchanging parts already purchased...

 

[Bnedea]

And also the schematics is wrong, Bat+ is always on, and ACC+ is live only when the engine is running.

 

[RavenManiac]

Yes you can and would be more efficient, less wires to reroute. I didn’t want to go through the hassle of exchanging parts already purchased...

So, based on your tests, the only thing I would need to do is make sure the parking mode switch is engaged before I start and ultimately turn off the car, correct?

Also, will this switch work for my intended purpose? And yes, I know it's a SPDT. Unfortunately, it's hard to find a stylish SPST switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B07D2CX76S

 

[bodycount28]

So, based on your tests, the only thing I would need to do is make sure the parking mode switch is engaged before I start and ultimately turn off the car, correct?

The only time it matters is to toggle switch to PM prior to starting the engine.

Also, will this switch work for my intended purpose? And yes, I know it's a SPDT. Unfortunately, it's hard to find a stylish SPST switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B07D2CX76S

I don't see why not, just got to find a suitable mounting spot. Cool looking switch btw...

 

[RavenManiac]

Okay, I'll give it a shot. BTW, what gauge wire do you think the Viofo 3-Wire Hardwire Kit uses? I need to order some butt connectors and some additional wire to run the ACC wire to the engine bay on the new 2019 Mazda 3 and I wasn't sure what to get.

 

[skansen]

BTW, what gauge wire do you think the Viofo 3-Wire Hardwire Kit uses?

In Viofo Hardwire Kit factory red, yellow and black wires are 20AWG. Black cable is 24AWG.
More in thread 3-wire hardwire kit's wire gauge?

 

[kevindd992002]

Here you go:

View attachment 45074View attachment 45075

regular SLA battery as expected

My car is just 15 months old.

Well, I'm just basing my responses on @Nigel's post here. I though there is a maintenance free SLA battery.

I drive on an average of 1 hour/day during weekdays and maybe 2 hours/day during weekends. Where is 12.4V used?

How many hours recording do you get from 12.2?

If you use 12.0 and the voltage regularly goes down to 12.0 then you will shorten the life of the battery significantly, but it will still work OK until it dies, then you can replace it with a better battery, maybe an AGM battery that will be happy with 11.8v and will still give you 5 years life. If you only intend to keep the car for 1 more year then your current battery will probably last that long on 12.0.

I still don't have the numbers because I've yet to install the whole thing this weekend. All I have now is the hardwire kit installed and ready to be routed but I'll have a professional do the routing for me.

So I guess 12.2 is a good starting point for now. I'll report back after testing.

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If you guys still remember, I have my 3 wire kit set to 12.2V for my cheap stock car battery that's only around 1.5 years old.

I left my car in the dealership to have its PMS last Saturday. It's still there now becausr I have some minor concerns that I want taken care of. I just got a call now and they're saying that the car's battery doesn't hold charge anymore and that they have to always jump start it.

I can't think of any cause for this other than the 3 wire kit for the dashcam. But like you guys recommended, I had mine set to 12.2V. I would think that they left the car for a few days without turning it on but the 12.2V threshold protection should've kicked in and should not destroy the battery, right? What's your take on this?

 

[Nigel]

Last time that happened to me, I came to the conclusion that the battery had been destroyed by the dealer, it was missing a lot of it's battery acid but didn't have any leaks!

Maybe they have changed the setting to 11.8V? You wont know until you check it out, no point in diagnosing it without the necessary information...

 

[kevindd992002]

Last time that happened to me, I came to the conclusion that the battery had been destroyed by the dealer, it was missing a lot of it's battery acid but didn't have any leaks!

Maybe they have changed the setting to 11.8V? You wont know until you check it out, no point in diagnosing it without the necessary information...

How did your dealer destroy it? Intentionally? And did you report this to them?

The switch for the voltage threshold is not in plain sight so I doubt they changed the setting but yeah I guess I should wait for the car to be back with me again.

Is there anything I can do to revive the battery though? I totally forgot to turn off parking mode before leaving the car with them. That was my original plan.

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[Nigel]

Is there anything I can do to revive the battery though? I totally forgot to turn off parking mode before leaving the car with them. That was my original plan.

It may revive with a good charge, it needs at least 12 hours for a proper charge, preferably 24, the dealer is probably giving it a 10 minute quick charge, hardly enough to replace what is used starting the engine.

Batteries do sometimes just die, and it may have been going to die anyway, no way to tell. All you can do is try giving it a good charge when you get it back and then watch the voltage carefully making sure that the camera does turn off at 12.2 as it should. If it does turn off then this is probably nothing to do with the camera, if it doesn't turn off then the hardwire kit is the cause of the problem.

How did your dealer destroy it? Intentionally? And did you report this to them?

I didn't have any good evidence that they had done it, or that another dealer intentionally destroyed my alternator by over tightening the belts in an attempt to make more money from me, but that 2nd dealer did end up in court with large fines shortly after when our government inspectors gave them a car that was in known good and documented condition and the dealer charged them for a load of unneeded new parts! I no longer use main dealers for anything.

 

[kevindd992002]

It may revive with a good charge, it needs at least 12 hours for a proper charge, preferably 24, the dealer is probably giving it a 10 minute quick charge, hardly enough to replace what is used starting the engine.

Batteries do sometimes just die, and it may have been going to die anyway, no way to tell. All you can do is try giving it a good charge when you get it back and then watch the voltage carefully making sure that the camera does turn off at 12.2 as it should. If it does turn off then this is probably nothing to do with the camera, if it doesn't turn off then the hardwire kit is the cause of the problem.


I didn't have any good evidence that they had done it, or that another dealer intentionally destroyed my alternator by over tightening the belts in an attempt to make more money from me, but that 2nd dealer did end up in court with large fines shortly after when our government inspectors gave them a car that was in known good and documented condition and the dealer charged them for a load of unneeded new parts! I no longer use main dealers for anything.

Ok let me try that. In any case I'm able to fully charge it, what is the correct process of forcing it to drop back to close to 12.2V so that I can simulate and test if the kit really shuts the camera off at 12.2V? Just wait patiently until it drops to 12.2V? That would be a long wait.

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[Nigel]

Just wait patiently until it drops to 12.2V? That would be a long wait.

Not if you turn the headlights on

That might be too quick, might be better to use the sidelights and wait a few hours.

 

[kevindd992002]

Not if you turn the headlights on

That might be too quick, might be better to use the sidelights and wait a few hours.

Lol, good idea. Do you have a recommendation for the best automatic car charger for this exercise? Are CTEK chargers the best?

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