A129 Pro firmware

VIOFO do need beta testers, however, they should be choosy and enlist beta testers.
The beta tester, should not make or be allowed to distribute or make available to general users. Also a good security measure too from jokers and sabotage.
Should the beta testers be posting bugs from beta firmware, adding to the impression that VIOFO equipment is unreliable.

It seems possible, that many newbies may have installed beta versions, thinking it was an official release.
Is it possible for user to install firmware or beta software not specific to their equipment, as naming scheme seems vague at times or need to be read carefully.
Hopefully there is a routine in the firmware that won't allow that to happen, advising it wrong firmware for the device they are attempting to update and/or that it is beta firmware.
The forum seems to suggest that possibility. From the forum feedback, could it be possible that VIOFO is looking for bugs that aren't bugs in the official firmware?

Bug reporting should be for equipment that haven't been updated, unless is an official release from VIOFO site only....
Only then can valid bugs be addressed in the right order, increasing the possibility of earlier incremental updates..
New features should only be in major firmware updates.
VIOFO should be addressing bugs and providing incremental updates officially to fix the bugs, not add features.
If they are doing that, then they are shooting themselves in the foot. Very bad practise......
Also, the versioning need to be addressed. For example, if Viofo is targeting version 2.1, any beta under this version should be,
- V2.1b1
- V2.1b2
- V2.1b3
- V2.1
Each version should have a target. For example V2.1
- to resolve sudden high CPU usage during write
- to implement a workaround when high temperature detected, reduce resolution
- to add http host

The targets should not change during the beta, meaning no new target should be added. Only when all of the targets has been achieved, can the version be released.

If after release of, say V2.1, a new bug has been detected due to the implementation of the targets, then a fix should be released under V2.1.1, V2.1.2 and etc.

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Just give a try of firmware update tonight. My A129Pro Duo comes with 1.3 firmware, now updated to " 20200417 v1.7T". Update process is smooth and straight forward, follow with resetting all setting to factory default after the upgrade is done.

First impression is okay.
- No immediate error and still staying stable at night time recording (will test it again at day time for double beep issue).
- More resolution options to choose, e.g. 2560x1440 offer with 60fps and 30fps. 1920x1080 offer 60fps, 120fps, 30fps
- Image quality (night time, 2560x1440 60fps, high bitrate, no WDR) stay in similar noise level like in 1.3 due to exposure boosting.
- Record file naming policy changed.

Didn't try any parking mode as that is not what I needed. So far the unit still in one piece and will report again follow with a day time test.
 
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So today give a test under good sunshine and see how's FW 1.7T doing. As the unit in FW 1.3 will occur double-beep and missing that section of video of around 4-5 second, today perform a day time recording test in FW1.7T.

Under 2560x1440 60FPS, "high" bitrate, no WDR no wifi no parking mode, the unit will still have occasional video drop for 4-5 seconds BUT THE UNIT WILL NOT BEEP (WHATEVER DOUBLE OR SINGLE) AND STAY IN SILENCE.

Will perform test again with Maximum bitrate next time to confirm if it is bug at certain bitrate level (last time testing under Maximum bitrate seems a little bit more stable)
 
So today give a test under good sunshine and see how's FW 1.7T doing. As the unit in FW 1.3 will occur double-beep and missing that section of video of around 4-5 second, today perform a day time recording test in FW1.7T.

Under 2560x1440 60FPS, "high" bitrate, no WDR no wifi no parking mode, the unit will still have occasional video drop for 4-5 seconds BUT THE UNIT WILL NOT BEEP (WHATEVER DOUBLE OR SINGLE) AND STAY IN SILENCE.

I have discovered this also, it is now almost like they are trying to hide the problem, perhaps the issue is unfixable and so this is the best they can do (hope no one notices).

I’ve pondered which IO operation it is failing on, i.e. creation of a new file or the deletion of earlier recordings.

If it is the deletion of files in order to recover space, then perhaps they can give us the option to specify some storage headroom, say 10GB or so which can be utilised immediately while stacking up delete operations until they eventually succeed.
 
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I don't think it is due to deletion of file, becuase my SD card is empty, fresh from SD formatter full format, the card space also didn't fully recorded
in today's trip

I have discovered this also, it is now almost like they are trying to hide the problem, perhaps the issue is unfixable and so this is the best they can do (hope no one notices).

I’ve pondered which IO operation it is failing on, i.e. creation of a new file or the deletion of earlier recordings.

If it is the deletion of files in order to recover space, then perhaps they can give us the option to specify some storage headroom, say 10GB or so which can be utilised immediately while stacking up delete operations until they eventually succeed.
 
I don't think it is due to deletion of file, becuase my SD card is empty, fresh from SD formatter full format, the card space also didn't fully recorded
in today's trip

Useful information, must confess that I have always presumed this was an IO issue only when storage runs out, based on what others have said and my own personal experience.

Recent discussion has focused on power, I am mulling over the purchase of a voltage data logger, to help debunk or perhaps add weight to that theory.

The inconsistency of these cameras is frustrating, I have pulled the SD card from my camera this morning, zero lost footage and 48hr parking mode recording (clearly I have a strong battery).

Whereas only a few weeks ago it was struggling with parking mode and dropping captures while driving. Nothing much has changed since that time, car usage is broadly the same, along with temps and the firmware version.
 
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Wouldn't using a cellink or similar extrrnal battery help to eliminate it being a power issue?

As the power supply would be consistent. As far as I understand the battery is only connected to the car for charging purposes.

Just a thought.

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Wouldn't using a cellink or similar extrrnal battery help to eliminate it being a power issue?

As the power supply would be consistent. As far as I understand the battery is only connected to the car for charging purposes.

Just a thought.

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I am unsure - For me this being a “power” issue is still undetermined, personally I feel it is mostly supposition based on a lack of alternative theories, but people have made compelling arguments and so who am I to argue without evidence.

In fairness several have commented that running via power bank has eliminated their problems, so perhaps they are right. However I cannot help but wonder how a power bank can offer up better voltage and current capacity than a beefy/reliable (also fairly well regulated and modern) car power system.

Something just doesn’t add up, and so again for me this is as much a case of validating my own feelings as that of others. Of course there is the HK3 to factor in, which could in itself be the weak link, some others have proposed this and that is what I wish to explore.
 
I am unsure - For me this being a “power” issue is still undetermined, personally I feel it is mostly supposition based on a lack of alternative theories, but people have made compelling arguments and so who am I to argue without evidence.

In fairness several have commented that running via power bank has eliminated their problems, so perhaps they are right. However I cannot help but wonder how a power bank can offer up better voltage and current capacity than a beefy/reliable (also fairly well regulated and modern) car power system.

Something just doesn’t add up, and so again for me this is as much a case of validating my own feelings as that of others. Of course there is the HK3 to factor in, which could in itself be the weak link, some others have proposed this and that is what I wish to explore.
I would be inclined to cast a suspicious eye on the HK3 as a main suspect, but that's just my hypothesis.

I would run the constant (fused)12v direct from the battery to eliminate the vehicles wiring loom from the picture but that's just me.

Rgds



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I would be inclined to cast a suspicious eye on the HK3 as a main suspect, but that's just my hypothesis.

I would run the constant (fused)12v direct from the battery to eliminate the vehicles wiring loom from the picture but that's just me.

Rgds



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Fair comment - Honestly I do not know what I will discover, my intention is to tap into the power just before the camera USB input, depending on what I discover I’ll then work my way backwards beyond the HK3.

Not especially keen to spend too much money on this exercise, and so for now I’ll focus on voltage drop off, again depending on what I find perhaps I’ll invest in a current data logger.
 
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I would be inclined to cast a suspicious eye on the HK3 as a main suspect, but that's just my hypothesis.

I would run the constant (fused)12v direct from the battery to eliminate the vehicles wiring loom from the picture but that's just me.

Rgds



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It is unlikely that it is a problem on the 12V side. The system uses a 5V regulator, and these usually have a wide input voltage range (9-30V is a typical number for this type of regulator). I would look to ensuring that the 5V wireing is robust, and that the output of the voltage regulator is on the high side of 5V. (This may be why the power bank helps some people, a different power supply will have a slightly different output voltage.) The camera uses a fair amount of current, and IR losses can be significant.
 
...However I cannot help but wonder how a power bank can offer up better voltage and current capacity than a beefy/reliable (also fairly well regulated and modern) car power system.

Perhaps it works because it is more stable ie less prone to spikes and dips of current or voltage? Those could occur with a car switched off as the computer dropped power to delayed systems. It's the only difference I can think of. It should be filtered/regulated on the output side of the PS , but these are rather basic PS's so significant changes on the input might make it through to the output at least momentarily.

It's been too long ago for me to remember the details but there was once a data-logger system you could buy which used discrete modules that could collect many different forms of data which would then be stored in the main unit's memory. A Raspberry Pi or Arduino based system would probably be better now, but back in the day it was a slick little system :)

Phil
 
It's not just about voltage "robustness". I posted a screen here somewhere from oscilloscope (i know, it's not that informative) that suggests the HK3 simply isn't the best approach how to regulate voltage. :) Don't get me wrong, it can serve as an step-down converter i'm just unsure about it in this case.

If somebody plan to use some voltage datalogger, keep in mind you don't need just resolution but also speed. :)
 
Anyone has any advice on how to reduce the static noise in the audio? I set the dashcam to 4K with max bitrate. I had to use max since the letters used in the plate numbers in my country is small. When using high bitrate, they are unreadable.

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Some other user said this will help but I didn't try myself

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224030761052



Anyone has any advice on how to reduce the static noise in the audio? I set the dashcam to 4K with max bitrate. I had to use max since the letters used in the plate numbers in my country is small. When using high bitrate, they are unreadable.

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It does. Is the static noise that noticeable and all the time? (just asking because sometimes i hear some static too)

Have you tried powerbank..? :p
 
Not always and mostly happen during low light, such as at night, dusk/dawn or raining.

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New official firmware V2.0 listed yesterday on Viofo site. Hope this fixes all the issues, particularly the double beep with recording loss while in driving mode.

It is interesting that the instructions mention to format in FAT32 still (not exFAT) and also does not mention about resting to factory defaults after the upgrade is done.
 
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New official firmware V2.0 listed yesterday on Viofo site. Hope this fixes all the issues, particularly the double beep with recording loss while in driving mode.

It is interesting that the instructions mention to format in FAT32 still (not exFAT) and also does not mention about resting to factory defaults after the upgrade is done.

Anyone install the official V2.0 from viofo website? Is build date same as the beta 20200604 v2.0?
 
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