BlackVue Wi-Fi 2-Channel DR550GW-2CH

[Hillbilly]

Hi
I have try but no tutorial of converting dr550 to English firmware

The last link I sent tells you how to do it Unfortunately its a DIY thing You have to sort it out yourself All the info is there

The alternative would be to have spent the money and bought one with English firmware already on it.

 

[Hillbilly]

Ok I will try.thk. If any kind soul have successfully convert a dr550 from Korean to English,pls kindly post here the tutorial step by step here.

Thk u

Ask on the Forum I linked you to they are the "experts" but probably on holiday like most other people and not much action on here this week either.

The link I gave you has all the instruction Its DIY you have to work it out like the others who have done it.

Sort through it and you will work it out

The alternative would to have been more careful and bought a version with English Software already on it.

They are around but cost a bit more, usual reason people don't buy them so much LOL

Then have fun getting them converted as you have found out.

 

[Fred21]

Ok I will give it a try.thk for all the help

 

[Woodside]

I second the option for an FTP server!!! If you connect via wifi to the cam you can already look up the IP address of the cam (it would be the gateway). If you then input the IP into your web browser you'll see there HTTP Progressive Download and RTSP files. When attempting to access any of the HTTP Progressive Download files it just claims there is nothing there (404 not found). When attempting to view one of the RTSP streams it can't open them. If you try to access using FTP such as WinSCP it asks for a username and then actively refuses the connection with anything that I've put in it.

It's like there is already some kind of FTP server already implemented as that's probably how it connects via the app. Wish I could figure out how to break in via the desktop.

Anyone have any ideas?

I cant find any evidence of FTP or SCP on the DR550GW.
However, I have managed to transfer files from the DR550GW to Windows with netcat (nc) that uses Telnet protocol.
nc is already on the DR550GW, but you need to get it for Windows, here is one source.

1. On a Windows machine with a wireless card, open a Telnet (or PuTTY) session window and an elevated command prompt window
2. Start WiFi on the DR550GW (this times out after 10 mins, not configurable)
3. Connect to the DR550GW WiFi

a. In the Telnet session window

i. # open 192.168.8.1 (This connects to the DR550GW)
ii. User root password tp
iii. # cd /mnt/mmc/Blackvue/Record
iv. # ls -l (to check the file names of the recorded files)
v. Right click > mark and select a file name (eg 20131230_233817_PF.mp4), right click and paste the file name into the next command
vi. # nc -l –p 3333 < 20131230_233817_PF.mp4 (This sets netcat into ‘listening’ mode)​

b. In the command prompt Window

i. Change Directory to where the nc.exe file is located (e.g. cd c:\downloads\netcat)
ii. $> nc 192.168.8.1 3333 > 20131230_233817_PF.mp4 (This sends the command to the ‘listening’ command on the DR550GW)
​

3333 is a random port number.
The copied file appears in the same directory as the nc.exe file on the Windows machine.
I have successfully copied and viewed the .mp4 files.
Unfortunately my linux knowledge does not extend to putting this into a script and downloading all the files for say the last day! Any takers?

 

[jermyzy]

Anybody have problems with keyless lock/unlock feature from keyfob after installing the Blackvue Dr550? Since installing my blackvue, my key fob doesn't work have the time. Some sort of interference?

 

[Hillbilly]

What make and model of car is It Cant supply answers with half a question

 

[RacingSnake]

Anybody have problems with keyless lock/unlock feature from keyfob after installing the Blackvue Dr550? Since installing my blackvue, my key fob doesn't work have the time. Some sort of interference?

I've got keyless entry and keyless start on my car, and can say that I haven't experienced any issues in that area. (still got my DAB reception issues, but keyless is OK).
It of course will all come down to the frequency your keyless system works on.

Just out of curiosity... can you disconnect the rear camera and see if you experience the same issues? - if so then you're probably facing the same issues as me on the DAB, which may be partially sorted by adding ferrites, or "may" be fixed with the new shielded cable whenever that arrives.

 

[jermyzy]

What make and model of car is It Cant supply answers with half a question

2013 Subaru BRZ. To top it off, my car battery died today, couldn't start the car. Had to get jumpstarted from CAA...power magic pro is set up at 11.8V and 6 hours cutoff. I live close to work so drive maybe only 15 minutes each way...but still seems kinda weird for that 6 hours to drain the battery, no? I wanted to set up at 12 hours cutoff, since my car has been hit and run twice already at work, and I work 10 hours/day. Looks like might be too much on my battery...will switch to 12v to see if it helps.

 

[jokiin]

11.8 is too low, turn it up to 12v at least

 

[RacingSnake]

As above, set it to 12v.

 

[jermyzy]

Thanks for all the replies, will switch to 12v and see if that helps.

 

[alexsoll]

DR550GW-2CH_v1.021K(2014.01.10)_Setup.zip
http://www.blackvue.com/common/down...4.01.10)_Setup.zip&path=board&idx=3064&sort=0

 

[Peter Wilson]

http://dashcamtalk.com/forum/posts/44345/
See the above post from Blackvue. I have downloaded all the files and have listed them on the first page... they are available from my UK based High Speed Server. See the forth post, I listed them as they are displayed on the Blackvue Website.

 

[Siewert308SW]

2013 Subaru BRZ. To top it off, my car battery died today, couldn't start the car. Had to get jumpstarted from CAA...power magic pro is set up at 11.8V and 6 hours cutoff. I live close to work so drive maybe only 15 minutes each way...but still seems kinda weird for that 6 hours to drain the battery, no? I wanted to set up at 12 hours cutoff, since my car has been hit and run twice already at work, and I work 10 hours/day. Looks like might be too much on my battery...will switch to 12v to see if it helps.

11.8 is too low, turn it up to 12v at least

As above, set it to 12v.

I must admit that I have some concerns about the power magic pro.
As my car is having a diesel engine and the 12v switch is to low.
This morning after 8hr I found my car with a flat battery.
The ups was set to 12v so I assume it switched off as the led of the ups was off.
But there wasn't enough power to get the start motor working.

So far parking mode, as I removed the power magic pro after work.
This weekend I will do some tests on my battery.
But also see if the ups has some leak current.

(Beamed from my Elegancia™ powered HTC M7 using Tapatalk)

 

[Peter Wilson]

Just to Remind you that Diesel engines require more Turning power and Use all there battery's available power (amps) to get them going. this is because there is no spark to ignite the fuel it is just say 2 litres of fuel and air compressed into the space that is thinner then your fingernail and about 3 inches across...

If you have glow plugs these will drain a large amount of power (amps) out of the battery.
some newer cars ECUs will not allow the car to start if the voltage is below 12.5volts...

think your problem might be Amps related.... That is why i have a battery powering my stuff and it is in the boot, it charges of a circuit a little like the Caravan Relay, the caravan hookup for the battery in the caravan. read up on it. it might be an idea to put a sealed lead acid battery somewhere else like I have.

 

[Siewert308SW]

Just to Remind you that Diesel engines require more Turning power and Use all there battery's available power (amps) to get them going. this is because there is no spark to ignite the fuel it is just say 2 litres of fuel and air compressed into the space that is thinner then your fingernail and about 3 inches across...

If you have glow plugs these will drain a large amount of power (amps) out of the battery.
some newer cars ECUs will not allow the car to start if the voltage is below 12.5volts...

think your problem might be Amps related.... That is why i have a battery powering my stuff and it is in the boot, it charges of a circuit a little like the Caravan Relay, the caravan hookup for the battery in the caravan. read up on it. it might be an idea to put a sealed lead acid battery somewhere else like I have.

Thanks for the information.
Already had the same thoughts.
But I don't think it's amp related.
Because when I turned the ignition key the startmotor took so much power that it killed every power hungry stuff in the car.
Before starting I turned down my electric window to see if the battery was empty.
The window went down but I went down as slow as a snail.
So in my non electric technical brain is saying the battery is empty.

Today I contacted my car dealer.
Now I know after contacting my Peugeot dealer that my car (308 estate) needs at least 12.5volt to start in cold weather condition.
And 12 volt in warm warm weather.
So your right when it comes to the power the engine needs to get turned on.

The idea you mentioned about getting everything powered from the boot on a separate battery sounds good.
I had the same in my youth as I was into cartuning those days.
And had all the lights and stuff powered on a gel battery in the boot. So maybe it could be my problem saver.
But then in a way like a small battery which you can find in those 50cc scooters.
This battery could be charged via the constant acc which is hooked up on my pullinghook.

Suggestion are welcome.


(Beamed from my Elegancia™ powered HTC M7 using Tapatalk)

 

[Peter Wilson]

I have Basically put some Old Mains cable Black and red twin and earth, but shower / cooker amperage from my battery to the front of the car.
I have wired in this relay.
A 100amp Starter relay for a Moped would do. But I went with 200 amps just to be on the safe side,
I have wired the switch side of the relay to the Alternators feed out (the one that tells the ecu/dash that it is charging/working) not the big one the small 12V feed. it only outputs power when the engine is running.
I then wired the relays input direct to the cars battery via a Cut off switch, so that i can isolate the circuit for changing battery's etc. and the other end of the wire to the Battery in the boot. Mine is actually a Motorized Golf bag battery that was not strong enough (Amps) wise to pull the bag along, it kicks out 12.5 volts for days, it however will power my two dash cams for around four days with no charge probably longer but I have never left it that long.

The battery's you could use may be in the following old booster packs (for starting your car0 £15, from a motor bike/scooter, or Golf cart battery's, or even some alarm system or old UPS battery's, and recargable 1,000,000 candel power hand laps/tourches.

I do also have a 1farad capacitor in the car, help the radio when i have the tunes turned up and gives a boost to the cars starter when i turn the car over.

 

[Adam H.]

Hey guys, So i need some help. I have the 2 channel 550 blackvue and the rear one isn't quite clear. I have it set to the best quality and compared to some of the videos i see on youtube that people upload of their rear camera mine is nothing compared. I even got it exchanged for another one and still its not as clear, even how the preview videos look like that pittasoft uploads. Any ideas on solutions or reasons? The image when playing back does sometimes look pixelated and like it can't keep up with the speed, idk its weird..

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[RacingSnake]

have a read through this forum, and even this very thread that you have posted on and all will become clear (pardon the pun).

 

[Adam H.]

Thanks, I did in fact read through it and to my understanding it's all about bitrate. I just don't see how everyone's camera is recording poorly in the rear, meanwhile the videos pittasoft has on YouTube previewing the same camera looks crystal clear...