Mobius support thread and Tech Guide (post all problems/help requests here) Read posts #1-8 first

[Asharus]

Apparently, one of my Mobius cameras becomes frozen in extreme cold weather and won't start recording right away.

For quite some time I have been running a Mobius facing out the rear windshield of my vehicle. (wide lens - FW v.2.25) The camera has a super-capacitor and resides in the vehicle permanently. It has been hands down, the most reliable set-and-forget dash cam I own. Now and again I'll check the footage or reformat the card and no matter what the temperature, summer or winter or how long I neglect the camera, it has always worked perfectly. I've always enjoyed how I can see the rear red camera LED in my rear view mirror and observe the reassuring pulse of the pilot light to know that everything is working as it should.

Where I live in northern New England we have been in the midst of a vicious cold snap. Yesterday, the temperature fell to -12 degrees Fahrenheit (-24.45 Celsius) The day before it wasn't quite so bad with the temps in the single digits. Today is relatively balmy with the temperature up into the teens.

So, for the last few days when I go to start my vehicle the rear LED on the Mobius will flash red three times and then nothing happens.......dead camera. If I wait a few minutes and then unplug the power supply and plug the camera back in, the camera will flash red three times and proceed to function normally. If I bring the camera into my house and let it warm up to room temperature it starts up in the usual fashion, so it seems that when deeply frozen, it needs perhaps two or three minutes of power before it can start to run normally. When the camera is in temperature conditions ranging between the mid twenties and 30's Fahrenheit and even dipping a bit into the teens it seems to function just fine; it is only when the temperature falls dramatically and stays very cold overnight that this seems to occur.

I had wondered along with all this if the super-caps had somehow lost their ability to hold a charge in these conditions but upon checking the footage the proper date and time is on all the clips. There is something else at play here.

Interestingly, when the camera first starts to run in these extreme cold temperatures, the video clips show a serious out-of-focus shift in the footage that slowly begins to return to normal as the camera warms up. Some of the footage seems to have a sort of slightly grainy appearance but I need to explore that further.

I have the same exact issue. My capacitor B lens camera won't auto-start after a night of "coldish" weather. I say coldish because I've tried leaving the camera overnight in mid-high 30s and it still sometimes won't auto-start.

When I got the camera a few months ago, it was below freezing, so I thought it was just due to the freezing temps.

The camera auto-starts fine when it's normal temps.

I wonder if I just got bad hardware since some of you have a temp range much lower than mine.

 

[Signhere]

I have the same exact issue. My capacitor B lens camera won't auto-start after a night of "coldish" weather. I say coldish because I've tried leaving the camera overnight in mid-high 30s and it still sometimes won't auto-start.

When I got the camera a few months ago, it was below freezing, so I thought it was just due to the freezing temps.

The camera auto-starts fine when it's normal temps.

I wonder if I just got bad hardware since some of you have a temp range much lower than mine.

Do an isolation/elimination test. Put your Mobius in your freezer (should be (-18c)/(0F)) for 15-30 minutes and power it up with an external power source like a "mobile power bank" ( or asap from your pc if setup to do so ).

 

[jokiin]

Connect the power after you start the car, does the camera boot up OK then?

 

[Asharus]

I'll try a different power adapter first. I'm using one of these right now

http://store.griffintechnology.com/powerjolt-dual-universal-micro

I'll use the one that came with the mobius tomorrow

https://www.mobius-actioncam.com/store/products/usb-car-charger-mobius-1000ma/

I tried eliminating the startup cranking power surge by just turning the car to the ON position and letting the camera start recording first before I crank it, but it was the same results, it doesn't auto start and you just see a blue LED blink once.

 

[Dashmellow]

I have the same exact issue. My capacitor B lens camera won't auto-start after a night of "coldish" weather. I say coldish because I've tried leaving the camera overnight in mid-high 30s and it still sometimes won't auto-start.

When I got the camera a few months ago, it was below freezing, so I thought it was just due to the freezing temps.

The camera auto-starts fine when it's normal temps.

I wonder if I just got bad hardware since some of you have a temp range much lower than mine.

In my case this problem only manifests at 15 degrees Fahrenheit or below which happens to correspond with the rated specs on the DSP in the camera as pointed out by @Isoprop in post #1199. If the camera is failing to boot up in ambient temperatures in the mid 30's F, then the problem lies elsewhere so the troubleshooting steps you are taking seem like a good place to start.

 

[map]

@Isoprop
Would it be possible in future firmwares/GUIs to make the led colour for each mode selectable? Or have the ability to set it so that the led is selectable between certain times of the day, such as - led on 07:00-19:00, led off 19:01-06:59?

As blue is the most visible, I use mode 2 during the day, but it is too bright for night use. I would like to be able to set Mode 1 led as blue, and Mode 2 led as red. Or Mode 1 led as blue during certain hours and led off outside of those hours.

 

[Asharus]

In my case this problem only manifests at 15 degrees Fahrenheit or below which happens to correspond with the rated specs on the DSP in the camera as pointed out by @Isoprop in post #1199. If the camera is failing to boot up in ambient temperatures in the mid 30's F, then the problem lies elsewhere so the troubleshooting steps you are taking seem like a good place to start.

well, upon further review, the adapter the mobius came with is a 2 amp charger, unlike the 2x 1amp each griffin i use. i'm hoping that is the issue. of course it's not that cold tonight so i wont be so sure if it does indeed auto start tomorrow morning.

 

[Dashmellow]

well, upon further review, the adapter the mobius came with is a 2 amp charger, unlike the 2x 1amp each griffin i use. i'm hoping that is the issue. of course it's not that cold tonight so i wont be so sure if it does indeed auto start tomorrow morning.

The camera needs a solid 1 amp minimum from the power supply. Perhaps the Griffin is a bit underpowered? That would certainly make the 2 amp charger an easy fix-it.

 

[Isoprop]

@Isoprop
Would it be possible in future firmwares/GUIs to make the led colour for each mode selectable? Or have the ability to set it so that the led is selectable between certain times of the day, such as - led on 07:00-19:00, led off 19:01-06:59?

As blue is the most visible, I use mode 2 during the day, but it is too bright for night use. I would like to be able to set Mode 1 led as blue, and Mode 2 led as red. Or Mode 1 led as blue during certain hours and led off outside of those hours.

I'm sure it would be 'possible' to define which LED is shown on which mode, but then I'm also sure it will never be implemented! Other than the most likely enormous program changes it's not something that most people consider important or even want. In addition, it would be all but impossible to know the actual status of the camera without knowing how it's configured. Total confusion.

 

[map]

In addition, it would be all but impossible to know the actual status of the camera without knowing how it's configured. Total confusion.

I hadn't considered that at all.

 

[horaceCJ]

And a question: before mounting the lens I tried to adjust the focus, just to be sure it's the best. However I didn't manage to turn the barrel at all, even when I took the screw out completely. Did anybody else had this problem?

I did a search on RC forum and I found an user with a similar problem, but for lens A. Here are some quotes with my highlights:

Just got my second Mobius from the main vendor. Went to slightly do the focus loosened the grub screw but the lens wil not budge. It's the latest version with larger battery and square LED light pipe, is it normal that these dont turn

No, the lens barrel should normally turn once the screw is loosened, but it is possible to tighten the set screw so tight that it deforms the threads to the point where the lens won't easily rotate. It might take a little force to straighten the crimped threads, but I don't know how much force is "too much". I think the front ring of the lens is also screwed on, so make sure that doesn't turn. Also make sure you have loosened the screw far enough to clear the threads.

Thanks Tom I took the grub screw completely out and still couldn't mark it, I emailed them now so thanks for help.

Does your camera also have the new fiber-reinforced composite lens/CMOS module? This shows how to tell. I suspect it does, and perhaps this is part of the problem. With the former metal module, the outer female threads in the module were strong enough to wipe the set screw deformations on the lens barrel males threads enough to allow it to be turned (with a little extra force). But with the new composite module, this may no longer be the case. The metal lens barrel thread deformations may now just dig in to the composite material and bind tight.

You probably have the standard "Lens A", which fits entirely inside the case. The pics in the link I gave you only shows the two wide angle lenses (B and C), which extend outside the case. BUT, the lens CMOS module (the part the lens screws into) is what I was referring to. The differences are shown in the third pic from the left. The modules work with any of the lenses, and it's the module material that was changed, not the lens barrel.

Yes it Lens A Tom and totally fits inside the case like my first Mobius. Tried again to free this thing and still no go am reluctatant to put any more pressure on it willwait for a response from eletopoline.

Thanks again

Well, I was not so reluctant and I used two pliers (one with needle-nose in order to grab the barrel) to rotate the lens. First, I also used a 1.0 mm flat-blade screwdriver trying to clear the bottom of the screw's hole. Anyway, a great force was necessary and after few rotation, I still can't adjust the focus by hand, I need the needle-nose plier to grab the barrel. Also, during the process the front ring was unglued and now it can unscrew, but this doesn't affect the focus.
Lessons learned:
- all new lenses come with the new fiber-reinforced composite lens/CMOS module
- if they screwed (read "tighten to tight") the screw then you're screwed (read "not able to refocus easily")
- if you try to much, you'll unglue the front ring
- lens barrel is still metal, you can see the scratches in my picture
And I guess the focus shouldn't be heat-dependent as only the exterior material changed... I hope so. At least, until now I didn't noticed this...

 

[Asharus]

The camera needs a solid 1 amp minimum from the power supply. Perhaps the Griffin is a bit underpowered? That would certainly make the 2 amp charger an easy fix-it.

Ok, that didn't work. Same results. I held the power button twice to get it to start recording. At least this time I didn't have to power cycle by unplugging it to get it to start. It was 45F.

I'm at a loss, I'm not sure what to do. I've been in contact with Vince at Mobius-Actioncam and we've been troubleshooting this for a while now. I'll see if he can issue a replacement. Unless you guys have any other suggestions.

 

[map]

I did a search on RC forum and I found an user with a similar problem, but for lens A. Here are some quotes with my highlights:













Well, I was not so reluctant and I used two pliers (one with needle-nose in order to grab the barrel) to rotate the lens. First, I also used a 1.0 mm flat-blade screwdriver trying to clear the bottom of the screw's hole. Anyway, a great force was necessary and after few rotation, I still can't adjust the focus by hand, I need the needle-nose plier to grab the barrel. Also, during the process the front ring was unglued and now it can unscrew, but this doesn't affect the focus.
Lessons learned:
- all new lenses come with the new fiber-reinforced composite lens/CMOS module
- if they screwed (read "tighten to tight") the screw then you're screwed (read "not able to refocus easily")
- if you try to much, you'll unglue the front ring
- lens barrel is still metal, you can see the scratches in my picture
And I guess the focus shouldn't be heat-dependent as only the exterior material changed... I hope so. At least, until now I didn't noticed this...
View attachment 11836

I've just discovered the same thing. I think my C lens is slightly out of focus, and I can't focus it I also had the front ring come unglued with very little force, however that does change the focus on my camera, it goes into macro mode.

 

[Signhere]

^
You guys need to work with heavier/more substantial pliers. Think torque and leverage ( like a breaker bar) - grip ( not squeezing) and twist. Don't worry about the beauty ring.


@3:00 for example ...

 

[horaceCJ]

@Signhere Guess what?

 

[country_hick]

There seems to be a repeated heat related problem with the new lens housing. It looks like the manufacturer needs to go back to the metal housing. I was almost ready to buy 1 or 2 but not until this new issue is resolved.

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/c-lens-going-out-of-focus.10208/page-2#post-130390

I can attest to this. Last weekend we took a trip down to MI Ann Harbour, was about 5 hr journey, the 64gb microSD card captured the entire 5 hr journey end to end. Later after getting back home, i did realize that the very first hour of the video was much sharper than the rest of the video definately looks out of focus.
Seems when it heats up it affects the sharpnesss of the lens.

 

[MANswers]

There seems to be a repeated heat related problem with the new lens housing. It looks like the manufacturer needs to go back to the metal housing. I was almost ready to buy 1 or 2 but not until this new issue is resolved.

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/c-lens-going-out-of-focus.10208/page-2#post-130390

Where the hell did my post go? Its deleted? I see it in your quote, but dont see the actual post in this thread. Did the admin/mods delete it cos i criticized the quality of the camera?

My earlier post was..

I can attest to this. Last weekend we took a trip down to MI Ann Harbour, was about 5 hr journey, the 64gb microSD card captured the entire 5 hr journey end to end. Later after getting back home, i did realize that the very first hour of the video was much sharper than the rest of the video definately looks out of focus.
Seems when it heats up it affects the sharpnesss of the lens.

 

[jokiin]

Where the hell did my post go? Its deleted? .

different thread, it's still there https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/c-lens-going-out-of-focus.10208/page-2#post-130390

if you click the little up arrow next to the quoted posters name it will take you to where it was quoted from

 

[Bungus]

Thanks Jokiin. Learn something I didn't know.

 

[MANswers]

There seems to be a repeated heat related problem with the new lens housing. It looks like the manufacturer needs to go back to the metal housing. I was almost ready to buy 1 or 2 but not until this new issue is resolved.

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/c-lens-going-out-of-focus.10208/page-2#post-130390

I am considering moving out of Mobius. Was a big blunder. This is not acceptable, why would the lens become out of focus due to heating issues? and this is a recurring thing? lol.. truly, u get what you pay for.
Considering the EDI Dashcam EB-105 (dashcamtalk link.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00M0V70XM
A couple of Youtube videos with the results for both day time and night mode is amazing.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=EDI+EB-105