SG9663DR Installations

I had to have my windscreen replaced 2 years ago for a rock chip, cost me all of $250 usd to replace. I think they charge that just to re-calibrate the built-in camera when they replace the windscreen not to mention the cost of the glass and installation of all the stuff (not crap:rolleyes:) attached to it. My guess is any new car with lots of tech, it will cost between $1,000-$2000 for a new front window replacement so one better keep a low deductible.
In the UK - it is covered by most car insurances, doesn't count as a claim. Just £60 excess. (2018 car, had a recent experience) On many new cars cameras are self-calibrating.

and none are built with the intention of them being on the road 20 years from now
One of local car manufacturers has a policy of supplying after-market parts for 10'ish years after production of the model has stopped. And not because they are evil - amount of required storage is enormous... (for parts that may be purchased couple of times per year, or never)


Apologies for off-topic!
 
In the UK - it is covered by most car insurances, doesn't count as a claim. Just £60 excess. (2018 car, had a recent experience) On many new cars cameras are self-calibrating.
Understood. Here in the states most insurance does not cover glass unless you pay a lot extra for that coverage or just have a low deductible and that would make the rates higher. It was covered as standard many years ago (part of the law that is no longer) but they cut that benefit to give more competitive rates. When I did my replacement of the front window is when I ran across the information of needing to be calibrated. Depends on what car one has but I will say you know more than I about this as it is not a concern of mine.
One of local car manufacturers has a policy of supplying after-market parts for 10'ish years after production of the model has stopped. And not because they are evil - amount of required storage is enormous... (for parts that may be purchased couple of times per year, or never)
Apologies for off-topic!
Super. My point is for the car to not need to be fixed at all. The normal here is for one to buy or lease a new car every 5 or so years, just like those that need a new phone every 2-3 years or less. We here can get parts for cars going back to before I started to drive. I could guess how much a computer for a Tesla model year 2020 or any other new car will cost to replace/install 10 years from now (doubt things like this are consumer replaceable). I am sure they will have it in stock and ready to install for the right amount of $$$ £ £ £
You can hit me back with one more if you like and I will let you have the last word, hehe.
Apologies for off-topic! yes to everyone sorry, and if you did not see my earlier posts, I like new cars I just don't think they last as long as older ones, flat out, too many things that can go wrong. They have a user shelf life and 20-30 years is not how long they are to last without needing major repairs. You may get back to me to argue this....20-30 years form now.
 
most insurance does not cover glass unless you pay a lot extra for that coverage
Costs me $10 a year per vehicle for full glass coverage with $0 deductible - you need to shop around. I specifically checked and that includes OEM materials and all costs (camera/sensor calibration, etc.) associated with the replacement. Living where I do with the number of trucks on the road kicking up gravel, etc. it's well worth the price as I've more than got back the premiums I've paid over the years.
 
I think glass are just a part of my insurance, if i make use of it a new windscreen will cost me 1700 DKkr, if i pay it all myself a windscreen + install is about 4000 DKkkr
So while 1700 are still a substantial chunk of my pension ( the part of it left after expenses ) then thats still a worthwhile saving, but it is so much i cant just rip that out of one month of pension, at best i will have to do 2 months of saving to be able to do that, or better yet more months of savings, cuz if i put 1000 DKkr in my piggy bank in a month, than that month are not "fun" and it will just be existing and not living.

BTW i just got a letter from my insurance say it will go up 800 DKkr annually, so next year that is about 1200 USD in total, so i think it is time to go insurance shopping again.
 
In the US they use the Samsung cards, if parking mode is a consideration I would always suggest using High Endurance cards as the better option, currently that limits you to 256gb though
Does "they" refer to the US Street Guardian distributor? I ordered from them and my 256GB card is by Sandisk. Samsung Pro Endurance cards have up to 5 years warranty but only go to up 128GB. Sandisk High Endurance goes up to 256GB by only has 2 years warranty.
 
I mainly finished my DR installed in my 2008 Sienna and will post photos once I receive my av cable and also a cable sleeve.

One issue is that the rear defrost lines show up in the view. Best I could do was position the camera so the closet defrost line is just at the top edge of the view and the next defrost line is faintly showing slightly below the center. Would it help if the camera clip has a shorter arm, allowing the camera lens to be closer to the glass? Was the older wedge camera closer to the glass?
 
Would it help if the camera clip has a shorter arm, allowing the camera lens to be closer to the glass?
It might help to reduce defrost line visibility. However the mount foot might then intrude into the camera's field of view.
 
I think it is marginal how much closer the old remote cameras ( wedge ) are to the glass Vs the new ones.
My rear camera are still in the same place, and still i have no heater lines in the footage.
 
So if anyone are down with Pythagoras,knowing that and the FOV of the lens they can calculate,,,,,,, stuff :) Me and Math never been friends.
 
It might help to reduce defrost line visibility. However the mount foot might then intrude into the camera's field of view.
I mean the spacing between the foot and the circle clip. Maybe you're thinking I want to shorten the width of the camera tube, which would make the lens closer to the clip instead of being closer to the glass.
 
As old as I feel, I may have grown up with Pythagoras :LOL: I can do the math, but TBH I usually estimate such things then try it to see how good my estimating is by doing it that way. Rarely do I need such levels of perfection with numbers.

Phil
 
So if anyone are down with Pythagoras,knowing that and the FOV of the lens they can calculate,,,,,,, stuff :) Me and Math never been friends.
And then someone can design a telescopic lens clip-on?
 
well a few of us have telescopic cameras in the car too, but on the front windscreen to catch things often happening a bit further ahead where the wide angle lenses are of little help.
But ! it is a screw on lens ( replacement )

 
I mean the spacing between the foot and the circle clip. Maybe you're thinking I want to shorten the width of the camera tube, which would make the lens closer to the clip instead of being closer to the glass.
No, I understood what you were saying. Unfortunately my mental 3D model let me down.

If the camera is much closer to the glass then at some angles the cable will be pressed hard against the glass, putting strain on both the cable and the mount.
 
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Does anyone know how the new SG9663DR can get power from a simple 12 volt cigarette lighter male plug?
I'm trying to find a 12 volt cigarette lighter male power plug for the SG9663DR.

However, the trick is that the SG9663DR has a special male plug power connector below.

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My father in law is an electronic technician.
With the standard SG9663DR power supply provided, is it possible for him to simply cut the power cable before this 12 V to 5 V converter junction box below, and simply attach a 12 volt cigarette lighter plug [far bottom pic]???

If so, which coloured wires would be connected to which wires?
The plug has red and black wires.
The rest of the OEM input lead has red switched power wire and yellow constant power wire, plus a black ground wire?

Would the cigarette lighter's red wire go to the StreetGuardian power supply red switched power wire?
Or would the cigarette lighter's red wire go to the StreetGuardian power supply yellow constant power wire?
Or would the cigarette lighter's red wire go to both the StreetGuardian's red switched and yellow constant power wires?

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putting the plug on the end is doable, I just need to do some checking to see if you you should connect both power wires or not, you're wanting to use it in a way we never really intended so need to make sure I check before advising which way to do it
 
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Am I over thinking?

Normally the red switched wire current tells the dash cam that the engine is on, so the dash cam records by default.

When there is no current in the red switched wire, the dash cam interprets that as engine off.
Thus the dash cam then uses the constant current from the yellow wire?

Hence if I connect the cigarette plug's red wire to the OEM SG9663DR's red switched wire, when the engine is on, there is current to cigarette plug, which in turn transmits the current to the red switched wire of SG9663DR, and the dash cam interprets that as engine on.
When the engine is off, there is no cigarette plug current, hence nothing in red switched wire, but since yellow constant wire not connected, there is no current for parking.
Is this really how it works???

On the other hand, we we connect the cigarette plug's red wire to the yellow constant wire of SG9663DR, with the SG9663DR's red switched wire disconnected, then the dash cam interprets that as engine off and car parked, and so the dash cam engages the parking mode the whole time????

Now, if the cigarette plug's red wire is connected to both the SG9663DR's red switched and yellow constant wires, then when the engine is on and cigarette socket powered, the dash cam would think the engine was on.
When engine is off, there is no cigarette socket current, so dash cam powers off, but because the yellow constant power wire has NO current either, the dash cam cannot go into parking mode.

Is this how it all works?

Thus wiring cigarette plug's red wire to SG9663DR's red switched wire will power dash cam on/off with engine, but cannot engage in parking mode whatsoever.

This entire technique may only work for me, because I have wired my dashcams in such a way that they get switched power from the engine, but on parking, they get power from Cellink Neo battery pack and record full time FT on large memory cards, as opposed to recording with parking modes.
 
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yellow wire is for permanent power, the red wire will trigger the camera to power on, or enter parking mode once the red wire is turned off
 
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