Feitelijk's SG9665GC

Center AE and WDR on.
SG top G90 bottom.
 
This morning I saw an enormous caravan, thought I'd compare the two cams. Loads of noise on the G90, nothing on the SG.


 
Looks good

By the way when it comes to 2 letter nick names for Street Guardian products,
SG = SGZC12SG
GC = SG9665GC
We all know you're talking about the GC of course but just wanted to let you know.
 
GC it is.

Just noticed the topic title is wrong too.... :(
 
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I thought so but only the body can be edited.
EDIT: Never mind, found it in thread tools.
 
That was bout the 7th time I forget to reaim after switching cars.
Wonder if the firmware gurus can help me with this :p

 
look at ya screen when it starts up.
 
On LOW AE.
I think its a bit too much even for my bonnet. . My feeling is that the clouds have too much influence on the metering. I will go back to centre to see how that goes
Perhaps jokiin could indicate where the cut is made exactly. (Not that I can Iam it more up but any way.)

 
If you're using the low cut it would probably do better aimed a bit higher than this if possible

See how center goes by comparison anyway
 
If you're using the low cut it would probably do better aimed a bit higher than this if possible
No it is't possible. My window is 62 degrees and the SG can only do 64. (Nowhere near the advertised "(near) vertical windows")

But if I go up more, the influence of the sky will become bigger and the road will become even more dark wouldn't it?
 
No it is't possible. My window is 62 degrees and the SG can only do 64. (Nowhere near the advertised "(near) vertical windows")

But if I go up more, the influence of the sky will become bigger and the road will become even more dark wouldn't it?

As we just discussed in the other thread, too much sky will make the image too dark.

I just wanted to respond to the issue of the 62 degree slope of the windshield vs the 64 degree adjustment of the camera. If you want to increase the angle, all you need to do is to use an extra layer (or two) of 3M VHB tape along the top 25-30% of the mounting plate and you can achieve a few more degrees of adjustment. Since I need (like you) to mount my camera away from the center line of the windscreen I use the above method with a vertical extra layer of VHB tape along the left side (25%) of the mounting plate to aim the camera more towards the center.
 
The movable lens housing is already touching the glass, so I would have to add a few layers first to get it away from the glass and then add a layer on top to rotate it a bit.
But I think I can get away with this.

I get the horizon at 495px from the top. so I think I even got the 64 and 62 the wrong way round.
And as you see I already have more than the recommended 40% sky.

xXRTbD6.jpg
 
I assume you must be using the thick mounting plate.

The rake of my windscreen is a problem too, even with the thick plate......if I use the CPL it can end up touching the glass causing a vibration.
 
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I guess, if you wanted to get the camera farther away from the glass you could use a square piece of black plastic in the desired thickness mounted behind the original plate. It could even be wedge shaped to adjust the aim to the desired angle.
 
I get the horizon at 495px from the top. so I think I even got the 64 and 62 the wrong way round.
And as you see I already have more than the recommended 40% sky.
camera look mounted at the bottom of the window, cant you move it up towards the top of window?
 
And as you see I already have more than the recommended 40% sky.

that's a starting point, some situations will call for different adjustments

Are you suggesting that we need to regularly adjust the up/down aim of the camera to achieve good exposure?

Well, that won't work. :(
 
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