SG9665GC anyone hardwire?

[dorcse]

There are two circuits in add-a-circuit. One is to continue same circuit which you adding add-a-circuit, - there you have to use original fuse which is now in the fuse slot, the other fuse slot on add-a-fuse "head" is for dashcam, - there use 3 or 5 amp.

Is it possible to use a fuse as small as 2 amps?

 

[niko]

Is it possible to use a fuse as small as 2 amps?

2Amp is fine as well for dashcam powersupply circuit. Many dashcam cigarette lighter chargers have 2Amp fuses.

 

[dorcse]

2Amp is fine as well for dashcam powersupply circuit. Many dashcam cigarette lighter chargers have 2Amp fuses.

Thanks! (For some silly reason I have about twenty 2Amp fuses on a shelf in my garage. At least I'll have a use for one of them ; )

 

[jaro]

2Amp is fine as well for dashcam powersupply circuit. Many dashcam cigarette lighter chargers have 2Amp fuses.

does 2A applies per camera? Lets say I will have two camera connected to a multisafer bdp kit. Is 2A enough or should I use 5A?

 

[Street Guardian USA]

2A for 2 cameras is cutting it a bit close. I would think 5A is best. I generally recommend 5A fuses for a single camera as well

 

[jaro]

Thanks. Will add this to my to buy list (whie waiting for the camera to arrive)

 

[niko]

does 2A applies per camera? Lets say I will have two camera connected to a multisafer bdp kit. Is 2A enough or should I use 5A?

Yes, per one camera is 2Amp minimum. In case of 2 cameras best as @Pier28 mentioned ( 5Amp ).
In case you using a Multisafer BDP, it has total rated 8Amp and can handle 4 single dashcams.

 

[scootle]

It's funny you ask I was just creating a new thread but I'll just post here. (talk about perfect timing)

CPUSB01 Cell Power/Street Guardian miniUSB Hard Wire Kit with BDP low voltage cut-off is now available.

(Cell Power is @jokiin's other company by the way)

https://shop.pier28.com/index.php/accessories/cpusb01-miniusb-bdp-hard-wire-kit.html
(excuse our web server, it's acting up and won't load secondary images until we roll back an update)
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So I ordered and received a pair of these and worked on installing them today via a 5A-fused add-a-circuit that I had previously connected to a hardwire install of my Valentine 1 radar detector. I used soldered connections and shrink wrap tubing to avoid any issues with bad crimping and such. After plugging everything in, I sat and scratched my head for the longest time because, in my BMW (E90), the circuit worked fine for my radar detector (V1) but refused to power up the StreetGuardian SG9665GC even when I had the car turned on to full-accessory mode (engine not started).

Well, after about an hour of fiddling, thinking it was just a bad ground or loose connection, on a whim, I decided to just start the car engine up and see if by some miracle that was the issue... lo and behold, it worked! It appears the voltage cutoff on the CPUSB01 set at 11.6V is too low with the engine off in accessory power mode for just the car battery/electrical to power it up! This was a bit... unexpected. My V1 radar detector and stereo system powers on without any issues under accessory power, so it's a bit puzzling for sure.

I'll have to dig out my multimeter tomorrow to test things more thoroughly, but it seems like the CPUSB01 cutoff circuit might almost be too good. I'll test the setup on my gf's Subaru tomorrow to see if that car has the same issue.

Are there any switches or jumpers inside the unit that can allow us to tweak the cutoff voltage as an end user?

 

[Street Guardian USA]

Yes, you need to start the car to achieve full high voltage kick start current. The voltage might be too low to over come the kick start when you only turn the key one click to ACC and have radio/lights/other devices powered with no alternator action. This is by design as it has battery discharge prevention mode and needs a kickstart to overcome the low voltage/off condition. There are no adjustments. We will be coming out with more advanced battery discharge prevention options in the future though. (no ETA, in the works though)

 

[wozzzzza]

We will be coming out with more advanced battery discharge prevention options in the future though. (no ETA, in the works though)

yeah one with a 30 second delay or something, once battery reaches the minimum threshold, wait 60 seconds or so and check again, if its still under that threshold, switch off the attached circuit.

 

[jokiin]

yeah one with a 30 second delay or something, once battery reaches the minimum threshold, wait 60 seconds or so and check again, if its still under that threshold, switch off the attached circuit.

selectable voltage, selectable timer etc

 

[scootle]

Yes, you need to start the car to achieve full high voltage kick start current. The voltage might be too low to over come the kick start when you only turn the key one click to ACC and have radio/lights/other devices powered with no alternator action. This is by design as it has battery discharge prevention mode and needs a kickstart to overcome the low voltage/off condition. There are no adjustments. We will be coming out with more advanced battery discharge prevention options in the future though. (no ETA, in the works though)

selectable voltage, selectable timer etc

One other feature to consider... detachable cables... my V1 hardwire adapter uses RJ11 plugs for all the cables that go into the DC/remote adapter and it's a godsend when you are simply trying to route the cables around the car. The all-in-one design might be simpler, but it essentially turns the device into one huge long cable with a lump in the center... and for those of us who are soldering connections, it'd be nice to be able to set things up in pieces. Food for thought.

One other thing that occurred to me... heavier gauge wire on the power delivery end of the adapter would make soldered connections a little less prone to breakage when moving/installing the soldered connections into the car. I had at least one of the fine wires snap off of the soldered add-a-circuit tail (which is much heavier gauge wire) during install, despite heat-shrink-wrapping the entire assembly.

 

[steeloyangster]

I also didn't want to hardwire my cam but I came across this item on Amazon. It's an OBD II port to USB mini. It's just a simple cable with a "Low Voltage Protection" feature that turns power off once your battery has reached a certain threshold. It's about $12 and has worked wonders for me so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00SKVGE5G

 

[adalex]

I have mine hardwired but a slightly different way. I used some of the scotch locks and bought one of these http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...let-12v-ac744-a-124m/6250129-P?searchTerm=12v . Basically what I did was cut the end off the splitter and luckily the power light on it is a led so it either works or doesn't and I stripped some of the insulation off to figure out which was positive. I spliced into both of the 12v wires for a cig or 12v aux etc and ran the splitter into the glovebox and from there preceded to use the supplied 12v adapter. I was thinking about a inline fuse between the 12v and the splitter but I believe most of the 12v ports already have fuses on them anyways. The nice thing about this is I can still use the 12v ports that I have (2) and by hooking it to a splitter I add an additional 2 free 12v spots for a phone charger etc.

 

[jokiin]

I also didn't want to hardwire my cam but I came across this item on Amazon. It's an OBD II port to USB mini. It's just a simple cable with a "Low Voltage Protection" feature that turns power off once your battery has reached a certain threshold. It's about $12 and has worked wonders for me so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00SKVGE5G

these concern me as the ones I've seen stripped down had bare pins exposed in the back of them, if a component ever let go there's a chance of shorting pins to your OBD port, I'd be sealing inside the back of it off if I had one of these

 

[wozzzzza]

I have mine hardwired but a slightly different way. I used some of the scotch locks

I have seen soo many of these things fail in automotive applications its not funny, they build up resistance, dodgy connections after a while, solder is the best way.

 

[jokiin]

Yeah I would never use scotch locks

 

[adalex]

Yeah I would never use scotch locks

oh I know it's not the best method but I don't have a soldering gun and don't trust myself since I'd be messing around with my mom and brother's cars :/

 

[CCClarke]

Using a CPUSB01 Cell Power 12v to 5v converter available from Pier 28, and a set of automotive trim tools, (here's a relatively inexpensive set I use all the time: http://www.eastwood.com/5-pc-trim-t...e=&network=g&gclid=CMmQg52oncoCFVBlfgodjU0Pqw) installation is relatively easy, if you know how to solder.

To increase the reliability of the solder connection using the smaller-gauge wire of the cell power input leads, I recommend using at least two layers of heat shrink extending over the input leads to provide more strain relief. 3M polyolefin heat shrink (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...all-Tubing-FP-301?N=5584053+3294230626&rt=rud) cannot be beat, and is commonly used in high-reliability aerospace applications.

The only improvement I could comment on for the cell power module would be the addition of larger gauge, (#18) Teflon-insulated wiring on the input side. The small size of the DC-DC converter module makes it easy to hide and secure under the dash using tie wraps.

For my hard-wired installation, I ran the power cable from the dashcam tucked beneath the headliner, then using a trim tool, pressed it into and behind one of the A pillars, and routed it under the dash, removed a trim panel on the side of the console, then removed a few fasteners and lifted the center console up to gain access to the back of a 12vdc receptacle inside the center console storage area that powers up and down with the ignition.

I cut and spliced the feed to the cell power module to the back of the receptacle. The biggest part of the job was removing the trim pieces to gain access to the path I used to route the cable. Nylon trim tools ensure there is no scratching or marring of the trim. With a few short tie wraps to secure the cable and cell power unit to avoid any rattles, the installation was complete.

The entire job took about an hour.

 

[AussieDaddy]

Hi, everyone. I browsed the forum for a few times about a week ago and have just signed up after I received my hardwire kit today on the post (I bought the cam about a week ago but didn't wanna install until the kit comes). I was wondering if there's a video or step-by-step instructions of how to do the hardwiring + camera setup? This is my first dashcam and I am an amateur when it comes to electronics (but can learn quickly) so any help will be greatly appreciated.

PS: My car is a lemon though; Holden Astra, sedan. In case anyone has had the cam installed on similar size car, any tips and advice will come in handy.

Cheers