SG9663DC with external waterproof rear cam.

Yes they can be hard on the paint, but not more than it should buff out.

I also use to prefer to hand wash my car, and so it did not happen very often, but it helped sell my Mitsubishi pickup truck 🙂 the guy buying it had been looking at a lot of cars, but mine was the best one paint wise.
 
I got Ford Mustang GT 2017 Convertible, US version. The unit behaves very strangely. So I said yesterday I got it eventually turned on and left in that mode in the garage. In about an hour I came back and the camera was recording, the adapter pilot light was on. I turned the engine on, and now went through the whole telephone connection procedure, as it was described. It worked though-out, but the second that it accepted the default password, the unit shut off. I looked at the power adapter and the pilot light was off! Can the unit control the power adapter? That was bewildering. I pulled the connectors of fuses harness plugged them back it and got the pilot light to glow. But I couldn't turn on the unit! When I would press power, the record button would turn on for about three seconds and then turn off and nothing would happen. I recorded this with my phone and can post it if I can post videos on this site. I went for a drive and during next hour everything was the same. I stopped several times, the adapter light would be on, the unit would continue to exhibit the same behavior. My car battery voltage showed as 13.8. I ended up pulling of the connectors. I am not sure if the solder that I used is circuit quality. I had a piece of previously molted solder in the bag with my soldering irons that I used to thicken these connectors. I have spindles of electronics quality solder in that bag, but I've lent that bag a couple of times to friends and one of them could have left that used before solder and perhaps it was not electronics quality. Anyway, have you seen this mode of behavior in the unit.
Also. The adapter switch has 4 position but has 8 voltages listed. How come?
 
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cameo said:
I got Ford Mustang GT 2017 Convertible, US version
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Thanks I'll ask our tech that is well connected for fuse tap location suggestions on that vehicle.
Which fuse number fuse taps have you tapped into currently. (which # slot for ACC and which # slot for BAT?) You might not have used the optimal choices.

cameo said:
I looked at the power adapter and the pilot light was off! Can the unit control the power adapter?
Click to expand...

The red LED should be glowing at all times in the SGDCHW/SGDCX2HW power supply box. See image below. If it means you're most likely not using a good BAT circuit. (or you picked a computer-controlled circuit where the computer is reducing the voltage or randomly powering off completely from load detection stuff) Wonky fluctuating or low power sill mess with the WiFi stability as well.

Page 9

1590947456188.png
 
the 4 of the voltages are for 24 volt vehicles, the kit support 12 V and 24 V vehicles. ( as you can also see on the pic above on the sticker )
 
P.S. another way to test the basics are working is to temporarily take the fuse panel out of the equations all together for test purposes.

A quick way to troubleshoot & confirm the hardwire kit is working correctly is to use some jumper cables and some smaller alligator clips to bring power from the battery to the inside the the vehicle right next to the hardwire kit without having remove anything. This will take the fuse panel out of the mix, and prevent the need to remove anything just to confirm things work as expected via simple direct power.


Connect both red (ACC) and yellow (BAT+) wires directly to the positive terminal of your battery and black to negative.


You can then simulate parking mode by removing the red wire as shown in the video here.
Notice the beep and circle/clock icon appearing in the upper right corner of the screen.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yi074hml6twf3nz/Parking Mode Example.MOV?dl=0


You can then reconnect the red (ACC) wire to make sure it returns to normal driving/recording mode.


This would be the fastest way to gather information on the basics first
 
Street Guardian USA said:
Thanks I'll ask our tech that is well connected for fuse tap location suggestions on that vehicle.
Which fuse number fuse taps have you tapped into currently. (which # slot for ACC and which # slot for BAT?) You might not have used the optimal choices.



The red LED should be glowing at all times in the SGDCHW/SGDCX2HW power supply box. See image below. If it means you're most likely not using a good BAT circuit. (or you picked a computer-controlled circuit where the computer is reducing the voltage or randomly powering off completely from load detection stuff) Wonky fluctuating or low power sill mess with the WiFi stability as well.

Page 9

View attachment 51850
Click to expand...
As I described earlier I discovered that the unit was set to 2-wires, so I reset it to 3. I connected battery input to fuse 2 and ACC to fuse 36 as was described on Mustang forums. Fuse 23 also can be used of ACC. In regard to firmware version, I was under impression that you have personally send to me... But perhaps more people do support here under the same account. So - I have two sets of your units. The first one, main unit with the internal rear, which I am not using. I am still waiting for a free label to return it back to you. And I have the replacement, non pro unit with external camera. When I asked what the difference was, at least one of you guys said that it had a downgraded firmware, lower version than the one on the Pro unit in order to support the external camera. And now you are now saying "Check that you have the latest firmware."??????????????
 
Indeed if the ground are the trouble maker it will be far from the first time that happened.
And yeah i would verify camera integrity with the provided PSU to the dashbord lighter socked, but i assume it is good.
New cars can be problematic to get hardware or at least parking mode going, already seen that quite a few times.
 
The only difference between DC vs DCPRo is firmware (software)

DCPRo supports IMX291 internal rear camera
DC supports IMX323 external rear camera.

It’s physically the same camera. One can be converted to the other if needed in the future.

I thought I sent you a return label. I’ll email a pdf later if you have a printer.

I always ship the latest firmware for direct orders. I may have a copy and pasted some support information that has updating firmware as one of the steps. you can skip obviously since you have the latest one loaded already.
 
Street Guardian USA said:
The only difference between DC vs DCPRo is firmware (software)

DCPRo supports IMX291 internal rear camera
DC supports IMX323 external rear camera.

It’s physically the same camera. One can be converted to the other if needed in the future.

I thought I sent you a return label. I’ll email a pdf later if you have a printer.

I always ship the latest firmware for direct orders. I may have a copy and pasted some support information that has updating firmware as one of the steps. you can skip obviously since you have the latest one loaded already.
Click to expand...
No there was no return label. Off course, I have a printer. 🙂 But back to firmware - may I assume that I have the latest available for main unit with external rear camera, or should I recheck it? I thought I saw 1.9, at some point before camera went into that zombie mode, but I can't be hundred percent sure.
 
cameo said:
No there was no return label. Off course, I have a printer. 🙂 But back to firmware - may I assume that I have the latest available for main unit with external rear camera, or should I recheck it? I thought I saw 1.9, at some point before camera went into that zombie mode, but I can't be hundred percent sure.
Click to expand...
Your message was displayed as collapsed. I didn't see the part where you said that I have the latest firmware.
 
I removed uncertain quality solder that I initially applied to the fuse wires to make them thicker and reapplied electronics-quality Radio Shack solder. I spent another two hours trying to file the taps to make them fit the fuse box to no use. This has been extremely frustrating. On Friday I bought two packs of fuses one of which was marked Micro2 and the other ATR, which two names for the same format. Both perfectly fit any Micro2 slot in Mustang fuse box. What you provided simply is not conformant. Are you going to try to send me the appropriate parts or am I on my own?
 
cameo said:
Are you going to try to send me the appropriate parts or am I on my own?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure there is a complaint part available at the moment, same problem here on another Ford

dashcamtalk.com

SGDCHW Add-A-Fuse Micro 2’s Don’t Fit Ford F150

Well, I have a SG9663DCPRO installed and working good on a 2020 F150 using a cigarette plug. Today I just received the SGDCHW hardwire kit that includes all the different fuse sizes but ran into a problem. The Micro 2 plastic housing is just a little too big and wouldn’t go in to the fuse slot...
dashcamtalk.com dashcamtalk.com
 
You should not be selling hardwire kit. If standard fuses fit into Ford fuse box, it means that you picked a blade vendor who manufactures non-complaint products. According to Mustang forums some blades conform to format, while others do not. I am not going to send your device back because I've already had to modify my vehicle to accommodate it, but I would think that it should be you who orders these blades from 10 different Amazon vendors until you find a compliant one, rather than me.
 
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cameo said:
You should not be selling hardwire kit.
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Not sure if you had a chance to fully read the other thread yet, it's been recently acknowledged as a new unexpected new Ford problem and is being looked into at the factory soon. It hasn't been a problem before now, other old and new non-Ford vehicles have been fine so far.

dashcamtalk.com

SGDCHW Add-A-Fuse Micro 2’s Don’t Fit Ford F150

Well, I have a SG9663DCPRO installed and working good on a 2020 F150 using a cigarette plug. Today I just received the SGDCHW hardwire kit that includes all the different fuse sizes but ran into a problem. The Micro 2 plastic housing is just a little too big and wouldn’t go in to the fuse slot...
dashcamtalk.com dashcamtalk.com

jokiin said:
had similar feedback from a Mustang owner recently, seems Ford may have changed the fuse panel plastic surround at some time, the taps are the same ones we've always used and it hasn't come up as an issue in earlier model model Ford vehicles, or in other vehicle brands that use Micro2 fuses, I'll pass this info to the supplier of the taps anyway and see if it's something they can adjust for future productions to accommodate whatever has changed, appreciate the high quality pictures, that will help
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niko said:
The "excessive plastic part" on the fuse taps can be filed down. It is fairly simple few minutes job.
View attachment 51849
View attachment 51848
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DashCamOnBoard said:
Well, that's a great idea. Didn't even think of that. Sometimes it's the simplest things you don't even think of, so thanks for the advice. So I went ahead and put both add-a-fuses on a vice and shaved down the plastic with a kitchen knife. Well guess what? Now they both fit in and the hardwiring is all done. Now I just need to drive around, test it out, and try out the parking mode. Very glad to get this done.

And evidently, this is s Ford problem after all. I'm seeing some other forum postings and Amazon reviews where people are having the same issue with their F150s. Well, at least now we'll have this thread on here as a future reference with photos that can be found in a search (I've added Ford F150 to the title).
Click to expand...
 
cameo said:
You should not be selling hardwire kit. If standard fuses fit into Ford fuse box, it means that you picked a blade vendor who manufactures non-complaint products. According to Mustang forums some blades conform to format, while others do not.
Click to expand...
something has changed on recent Ford's with the design of their fuse panel, older models were never an issue, fuse taps are a convenient option but they don't work for every vehicle unfortunately
 
Street Guardian USA said:
@cameo, I'm refunding the cost of the SGDCHW hardwire kit from your order, you can keep it (no need to send it back)
Click to expand...
You don't need to. I did not ask for it. If you did, please charge it back. Thanks for the tip about the tabs. When I compared a fuse and the connector under a magnifier I, indeed saw, that it had those extra tabs which the fuse doesn't have. Being far-sighted, I couldn't see it before. It took me quite a bit of work to remove them with an exacto knife, partly because I also had to file off a lot of extra solder that I applied to the blades. Once I realized that one blade had to fit into the lower socket of another, it was only a matter of time. I will make picture tomorrow for the benefit of others. In a retrospect, I think Ford simply applied tighter adherence to format, and that caused the problem. I just went for a drive in the dark and made a recording.
 
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