SG9663DC with external waterproof rear cam.

 
Hi, Street Guardian. Unfortunately the micro 2 connectors that you've sent me with the hardware kit do not fit 2017 Mustang. They are so very slightly different than the actual micro 2 fuses. The manufacturer was definitely aiming for micro 2 standard, but missed the mark. Did you use Lumision brand? It's known not to fit Mustang and other cars.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00OZFNJI6
There is more to it. The micro2 fuses that came with the hardware kit, will fit into Mustang fuse box. Now, the adapter has two female slots for fuses. The fuse that came with the adopter fill fit perfectly into the top female slot of the adopter, but will sit loosely in the bottom. The car fuse will fit nicely in the bottom slot. So this adapter is non-complaint with micro2 fuse standard in more than one way. I can try filing, but honestly, I would hate to mess up my fuse box.
 
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Hmmm that’s a bit peculiar. They fit every other car, maybe it's a one off 2017 Mustang issue. Our tech confirmed he’s definitely seen SG micro2 fuse taps used on a Mustang before in one of the shops. (Had no issue)

The good news is the taps are removable anyway so you can replace them with different 3rd party taps if that's what needed for a work around.
 
Another reply with a bit of interesting related info:

“If it fits loosely, it doesn't hurt to file a little bit of plastic off to fit into the fuse slot. I had to file one down a little for a Hyundai Sante Fe. Just get a file and file. What happened was the plastic with the 2 'prongs' came out to go into the fuse slot was a little thick so the clips at the fuse slot weren't holding the prongs tightly enough so another words the prongs' tips just reach the clips. I had to file the plastic around the taps a bit so the plastic wouldn't hit the other fuses and go all the way it. Probably take him around 5 mins because he will have to file a little a time, test it and refile if need to..”
 
It turned out that adapter plugs did fit, but so loosely that I thought they were not going in at all. These adapter blades are much thinner than regular micro2 fuses, which is why they wouldn't sit in a fuse box socket. I applied some solder and managed to attached the one which works of the switched power source. The adapter which was supposed to go into the non-switched off (battery) socket didn't have enough solder. Unfortunately, in the process, I dropped and lost 7.5 fuse that was was sitting in the battery socket. I tried turning the unit on by holding the adapter in the battery socket with my finger, but the camera wouldn't turn on. Now, because I lost the native fuse, I only had your 5 fuse in the adapter. Is it supposed to work with only your fuse installed? Also, the camera wouldn't work from just switched-off (acc) fuse adapter when I started the engine. I tried it in both 23 nad 36 position which are known to work in this car. Why wouldn't it work ofg it? Could I have a broken hardware kit? I just applied more solder to the non-switched off adapter, but before I go downstairs and try it, could you please answer whether it will work with only the fuse supplied by you and whether the hardware kit should work when attached to only switched-off source with the engine running.
 
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not clear on your question, both power wires need to be connected, if using fuse taps in place of a factory fuse both fuse slots need to have fuses in, the original fuse goes in the bottom slot, top slot is the output for the hardwire kit
 
not clear on your question, both power wires need to be connected, if using fuse taps in place of a factory fuse both fuse slots need to have fuses in, the original fuse goes in the bottom slot, top slot is the output for the hardwire kit
I understand that to have proper protection you would need both fuses since the load it higher. But why wouldn't it work with just one installed since the electric circuit is closed? And why is position important?
 
So even if now that I made always-on connector thicker, if it gets a good hold in th socket, it still will not work until I replace the original 7.5A fuse, yes? And the system will only work with both always-on and switched-off adapters connected with both having 2 fuses inserted, the original and the 5A and only if the original fuses are in the bottom position? Right?
 
it needs both fuses installed in each tap, the position is relevant if the circuit you tapped had a different fuse rating in it, you don't want to put the 5A fuse in place of a fuse of a different rating, fuses are there to protect the vehicle, not the device connected to the circuit
 
According to this message by you, the hardwire kit should supply the power to the unit solely from acc socket with engine running. But it didn't work in my case. It also seem from the discussion that the transformer has a pilot light. Mine never came on off the acc source.

 
it needs both fuses installed in each tap, the position is relevant if the circuit you tapped had a different fuse rating in it, you don't want to put the 5A fuse in place of a fuse of a different rating, fuses are there to protect the vehicle, not the device connected to the circuit
I do understand the appropriateness of having both fuses installed from the standpoint of protection, but even with a single fuse, the transformer should have displayed a pilot light and the camera should have turned on, yes, no? I know that the both front and rear cameras are all right because I tested them from the cigarette adapter prior to installing. Trying to figure out if the transformer in hardwire kit might be broken.
 

That contradicts the reference in the other thread, but I'll take your word for it. It's already too late in East Coast US to try to buy 7.5A fuse. The issue rests until tomorrow. Thank you.
 
Rear Cam. The first night I spent about two hours trying to find a way through the trunk metal to the plastic bumper through various holes in the trunk back wall to no use.
Yesterday, it took me at least 3 hours to fish the rear cam cable through the two holes that I drilled in the bumper and another couple of hours to route the cable to the front. Today I spent 5 hours connecting hardwire kit.
I hope no one else will ever again falsely accuse me of hit-and-run, but if they do, I'll make sure that that bitch will lose her job, never gets credit from a bank and stands no chance of ever getting married. Unless it is to another bitch.
 

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Applying solder to connector and then filing some off made for a really tight fit. Hopefully I will be able to replace the lost fuse tomorrow and let this Street Guardian guard me.
 
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It turned out that adapter plugs did fit, but so loosely that I thought they were not going in at all. These adapter blades are much thinner than regular micro2 fuses, which is why they wouldn't sit in a fuse box socket. I applied some solder and managed to attached the one which works of the switched power source. The adapter which was supposed to go into the non-switched off (battery) socket didn't have enough solder. Unfortunately, in the process, I dropped and lost 7.5 fuse that was was sitting in the battery socket. I tried turning the unit on by holding the adapter in the battery socket with my finger, but the camera wouldn't turn on. Now, because I lost the native fuse, I only had your 5 fuse in the adapter. Is it supposed to work with only your fuse installed? Also, the camera wouldn't work from just switched-off (acc) fuse adapter when I started the engine. I tried it in both 23 nad 36 position which are known to work in this car. Why wouldn't it work ofg it? Could I have a broken hardware kit? I just applied more solder to the non-switched off adapter, but before I go downstairs and try it, could you please answer whether it will work with only the fuse supplied by you and whether the hardware kit should work when attached to only switched-off source with the engine running.

No it WILL NOT work without a fuse to ground the camera. You need the native fuse sitting closest to the fuse box and the second fuse sitting away from fuse box. Otherwise, the circuit is not complete. So you have everything installed properly when the Vehicle Fuse is installed, but the top Camera Fuse is missing, and the camera will not power on. That also means the top circuit / fuse is protecting your Dash Camera. Once the Top fuse is Installed, and Camera works, you're gold!

fuse.jpg
 
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it needs both fuses installed in each tap, the position is relevant if the circuit you tapped had a different fuse rating in it, you don't want to put the 5A fuse in place of a fuse of a different rating, fuses are there to protect the vehicle, not the device connected to the circuit

I gave him a diagram so hopefully that clarifies things. I'm a visual person. Explaining is difficult and it appears cameo learns the same way.
 
Yes. That is why they are called piggy back fuse adapters, you life the original fuse out of the box, and but it in the tab and then you have the fuse for what ever the tab have to power above the original fuse, and so "riding piggyback" on the original fuse.
So if you dont have the original fuse in the tab then there are nothing to bridge the original connection and so something in your car are not working, the tab fuse sit above and connect to the dashcam.

On my drive yesterday a saw a nice blue metallic Mustang, you dont see those too often in Denmark which are more of a 4 banger country.
 
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