SGDCHW for SG9663DC (3-wire hardwire kit to enable PARKING MODE function) Timed & Low Battery Discharge Prevention

jokiin

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Before I put the hardware kit on I tested it on a different ground point near the gas pedal, however, it was just a metal rod. The thing read a little over 12V which what told me it was active.

I just too went out and watched the camera to see whats going on when it kicks out of time-lapse mode. I was watching the light on the hardwiring kit and saw it go out then the camera shut off.
what voltage setting are you using at the moment?
 

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I am using the 12.0V. I did try 11.8V and had the same results.
ok, if it just turns off in parking mode the red light on the power supply would stay lit, the fact that it goes off means the voltage cut had tripped

I have another user that has multiple cameras and he commented that when the vehicle batteries were getting low (old) that the performance was erratic and once he replaced the batteries it hasn't been an issue, he even swapped a battery back to test and the problems returned, doing some testing around that now and will see what comes of it
 
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ok, if it just turns off in parking mode the red light on the power supply would stay lit, the fact that it goes off means the voltage cut had tripped

I have another user that has multiple cameras and he commented that when the vehicle batteries were getting low (old) that the performance was erratic and once he replaced the batteries it hasn't been an issue, he even swapped a battery back to test and the problems returned, doing some testing around that now and will see what comes of it
So I sat in the car for a while after driving and the power supply light went out. Went to check the voltage of the battery and it was 12.38V when the setting is at 12.0V. Around 3-4 minutes later the light went back on and the camera powered up. This is probably the reason why the camera would turn its self on and drop from time-lapse mode.

The battery I got is just about a year old I know my friend tested it with a tool he has a few weeks back and it showed it was in good health.

when you get a chance can you put your multi-meter on the fuses you're using and see what voltages you get on each, car running and off
Car off: 12.40v

Car on: 13.39v


When I turned the car off I kept the multimeter on the fuse to see if power drops below 12V or is cut however it goes from 12.41 to 12.40 and stays for 2 minutes before the light on the hardwire kit goes off. A few minutes later the hardwire kit turns back on and the camera goes into normal recording mode.



Also as a note, my date keeps getting reset to 01/01/18
 

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So I sat in the car for a while after driving and the power supply light went out. Went to check the voltage of the battery and it was 12.38V when the setting is at 12.0V. Around 3-4 minutes later the light went back on and the camera powered up. This is probably the reason why the camera would turn its self on and drop from time-lapse mode.
if power is cycled it would definitely turn back to normal mode, if voltage is cut due to voltage drop and then just raises again it won't turn on, we tested that here just now on a bench supply with variable voltage output and we could wind the voltage down until the power cuts according to the selected setting on the power supply and then wind it back up past 14v and still nothing, but cut the power off and connect it again and it will turn on in normal recording mode, if it's turning off and you have the voltage set to 12v but the circuit has 12.4v then it isn't the voltage cutoff in the power supply that has turned it off, there might be something in the vehicle that is computer controlled that is cycling the power to those circuits, hard to find the info on your car as it's an older model, I know in a lot of more recent model Euro cars if the computer detects a parasitic load it can do that, for those types of vehicles we need to get permanent power directly from the battery to bypass all the onboard control, hard to know if your car is like this, even though it's an older car it was pretty cutting edge at the time
 
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if power is cycled it would definitely turn back to normal mode, if voltage is cut due to voltage drop and then just raises again it won't turn on, we tested that here just now on a bench supply with variable voltage output and we could wind the voltage down until the power cuts according to the selected setting on the power supply and then wind it back up past 14v and still nothing, but cut the power off and connect it again and it will turn on in normal recording mode, if it's turning off and you have the voltage set to 12v but the circuit has 12.4v then it isn't the voltage cutoff in the power supply that has turned it off, there might be something in the vehicle that is computer controlled that is cycling the power to those circuits, hard to find the info on your car as it's an older model, I know in a lot of more recent model Euro cars if the computer detects a parasitic load it can do that, for those types of vehicles we need to get permanent power directly from the battery to bypass all the onboard control, hard to know if your car is like this, even though it's an older car it was pretty cutting edge at the time
If it was being power cycled wouldn't the multimeter show a voltage cut instead of it just staying at 12.4? Also wouldn't the power be cut every time it cycled when it was in normal recording mode too?
 
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jokiin

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The light on the power supply will only go out if power is cut or the voltage cut level is reached, there could of course be a fault with the power supply, we can bench test and send a replacement to rule the power supply out
 
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The light on the power supply will only go out if power is cut or the voltage cut level is reached, there could of course be a fault with the power supply, we can bench test and send a replacement to rule the power supply out
Okay, we can try that, I also tried to a test on fuse 12 for the OBD-II port. I plugged my ODB-II scanner in and turned on and off the car. The scanner and HW light were lit for a few minutes. Then the HW light went out however my OBD-II scanner kept working. That's the only reason I am unsure if it is power cycling because of wouldn't the scanner power cycle too?
 

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Okay, we can try that, I also tried to a test on fuse 12 for the OBD-II port. I plugged my ODB-II scanner in and turned on and off the car. The scanner and HW light were lit for a few minutes. Then the HW light went out however my OBD-II scanner kept working. That's the only reason I am unsure if it is power cycling because of wouldn't the scanner power cycle too?
another thing you can try is connect the yellow wire to an accessory switched circuit, leave the red disconnected and run the camera in acc switched mode (without parking mode) for a while and see if you get any odd behaviour while driving

while you're doing that we can pretest another power supply anyway
 
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another thing you can try is connect the yellow wire to an accessory switched circuit, leave the red disconnected and run the camera in acc switched mode (without parking mode) for a while and see if you get any odd behaviour while driving

while you're doing that we can pretest another power supply anyway
Okay so run the yellow cable where the red one is and just leave the red one unplugged?
 
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Welp just went out for a drive with the yellow cable plugged in where the red one was and the camera turned off a few minutes while driving. I'm guessing something is wrong with the hardwire kit?
Please email or private message me your details. I’ll send a pre-tested replacement SGDCHW
 
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ok, will message you a newer version to try if you can test and let me know the result?

if you still have the same issue can you try turning G-Sensor off and let me know the result?
Installed 1.33 test firmware and have been running for a couple days with G-Sensor off.
  • 2 fps is recording time lapse as expected so far, though I did have to reseat the fuses to get this to not record full video in parking mode.
  • 5 fps option is still turning off after a short 3ish minute recording.
 

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